1988 90HP Mercury Outboard - Compression and Throttle Lever Issue

EngineEar

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Feb 9, 2019
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Alrighty! First post on the forum! I am pretty new to the boat-owning world, but my family typically had one when I was growing up. I have a 1988 90 HP Mercury outboard (3 cylinders) on a 16' Checkmate Predictor. One of the previous owners removed the oil injection, so now it just runs on premix. I have two main problems with my outboard setup currently:

ISSUE NO. 1 - No Compression On One Cylinder

I'll start with some description of symptoms. It starts decently well, though I have a manual jumper switch currently connected to the starter solenoid, and it is sometimes stubborn to start on the water. When on the water, the boat takes a very very long time to get up to speed and get on plane, due to the fact that if I push the throttle down too fast, the engine just dies. I have to very incrementally give it more gas. I also sometimes cannot get on plane depending on how many people are in the boat or if I'm towing.

I checked compression on the cylinders a while back and I believe these were the results:

TOP: 90-100 psi
MIDDLE: 0 psi
BOTTOM: 90-100 psi

I might have the order mixed up on what cylinder had 0 psi, but this is my best recollection for now. When running the test on the 0 psi cylinder, it sounded noticeably different from the other cylinders.

I spoke with a repair shop in town and they said the slow acceleration issue I'm experiencing makes sense given the 0 psi on one of the cylinders. I am now in the process of trying to determine if it is worth my time and expense to repair the engine. In talking with some other people, they said it might be the reed valve on that cylinder that has gone bad or stuck open. However, the boat shop said if that's the case, I might get very low compression on all the cylinders because the air passage ways might be connected. Anyways, I thought I would seek some more advice from people more experienced with this specific engine before tearing things apart and examining. Could this be a reed valve issue? If reed valves are out of the question, is the issue likely more serious, such as a hole in a piston?

ISSUE NO. 2 - Throttle Lever

First off - if I should post this question in the Steering and Controls part of the forum, please tell me. I thought I would keep my questions together since the problems may in some way be related.

The last time I took the boat out, the throttle control lever became extremely loose and acted like it was not connected to anything. At one point, the boat was in gear and I could freely move the throttle lever forward and backward without affecting engine rpm at all. I had to kind of jam it to the side in a very particular spot for it to feel like it grabbed on something and then I could carefully get the boat to accelerate/decelerate or pull it out of gear. Any thoughts on what might be the problem and potential solution?


Thank you very much for any advice!

LJ
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,881
About 20 bolts pulls the exhaust covers off on the port side of the block.-----It allows you to look at pistons and rings.-----That is your next step.----It will tell the story !!-----And no a reed valve has nothing to do with compression in the cylinder either.----Not sure why folks do not know that.
 

The Force power

Commander
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Feb 3, 2019
Messages
2,351
Believe or not but these motors will run on one good cylinder only.

Re-check the psi-pressures on what cylinder and document! The 3 cylinders were notorious for blown #1 Pistons
If at best you get a 100 psi from your best cylinder; your looking at a tear-down & is tricky but possible in 15 hours
 

EngineEar

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Feb 9, 2019
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After some more research, it now makes complete sense to me why the reed valves would not affect compression. Thanks for the help. Here's my plan:
  • Re-test psi's and document
  • Pull the exhaust cover off and inspect/take pictures.
  • Return here with my findings
Thanks again!
 

merc850

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Jul 7, 2010
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2,055
I figure the only way that a cyl. would have 0 compression is if the piston isn't moving due to eg. broken rod or some other failure, put a pencil in the cylinder - turn the flywheel and see if the pencil moves in and out.
 

EngineEar

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Feb 9, 2019
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I'm back. I measured compressions again (without really warming up the engine) and got:

Top: ~88 psi
Middle : 0 psi
Bottom: ~89 psi

I tried the pencil thing and found that none of the rods were broken. Then I took the exhaust cover off and had a look. By the way, does anyone know the torque settings for the exhaust cover? I put around 17.5 ft-lbs on the bolts when I put everything back together for now. I am also wondering if I need to put new gaskets between the plates.

I attached some pictures of the bad piston. Hopefully they upload alright. Basically each piston is supposed to have two rings on it, which the top and bottom pistons demonstrated to me. On the middle piston, I could only see the remains of one ring (the lower ring), which was noticeably deformed/broken. The top of the side wall of the piston looked like some kind of metal eating piranha attacked it - very eaten away and basically looked like a rough rock. The top surface of the piston also had an outer circle of material that was eaten away. My suspicion is that the top ring bound up somehow or wore out and ripped loose or something, thus causing an accumulation of metal debris in the cylinder that clanged around in a violent manner leading the piston to destroy itself. Does this sound about right?

IMG_2955 2.JPGIMG_5225.JPG

Any advice moving forward? It looks like I can get a new piston and ring assembly for anywhere between $15 (aftermarket) to around $150 (OEM). Are aftermarket parts reliable for these? How much effort am I looking at for disassembly and assembly? What is an expected reasonable price for reboring and sleeving the cylinder? Trying to decide if it is worth the investment to repair. Thank you!
 

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racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
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Take the powerhead off.----Take it apart.-----Evaluate the cost of parts / machine work.----Then decide the path forward.----Teardown for me is about 1-1/2 hrs.----For a first time perhaps for you is 4 hrs maximum.
 
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