1988 Cobia Sunskiff 200 restoration

Dbrown_rn

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Hello to everyone. I’ve watched the site for a long time, but have recently subscribed after I bought this Cobia center console. I purchased this boat for dirt cheap, absolutely understanding at the time just how much work is going to be needed to fix her up. My hopes are to document this project as I go, interacting with the community here, and hopefully getting help and education from everyone with experience.

This is my first fiberglass boat. I have owned 2 all aluminum Sea Nymph Great Lakes Special boats but sold them along my journey with 4 young kids. I have more time to get into a project now, and a guy down the road from me practically gave this boat to me. I hope to have it in the water by this time next year. I realize it is going to be a long process, but hopefully some people here tag along and help keep me motivated to keep posting and keep working on it along with some pointers.

This is is going to be used mainly on Lake Erie for fishing with the possibility of tubing. Enough with the long intro, here are the starting picks from when I picked it up Sunday.
 

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Woodonglass

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UHMMM a lot of boats like this are TUB construction which makes em a little more difficult to restore. A thorough inspection of the deck and transom is warranted. There's probably waterlogged foam under the deck and the transom may have issues as well. Let us know what you find.
 

Dbrown_rn

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Jul 4, 2019
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Ok, so I got a little work done over the last couple days. I started by soaping everything and then power washed the inside and out. The hull actually cleaned up pretty nice. The interior did to, once all the mildew and algae were off. As far as the interior, as I already new the whole deck is severely rotted and in need of replacement. My plan so far is to:

1. De-rig the motor controls, steering, and electric
2. Remove center console and seat
3. Remove all accessories.
4. Start to cut out known rotted areas in deck and evaluate if whole thing does actually need to come iut
5. Further evaluation from there.

Woodonglass, do you know what specifically would make the restore more difficult in a boat like this?

more pics to come later in today
 

Dbrown_rn

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Jul 4, 2019
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So, despite being on the road for 7 hours today, I had enough energy to get some more work done on the Cobia. I was able to remove the captain's seat, the center-console, all the wiring has been completely stripped, and the motor controls and steering.

With everything out of the interior, it was really gut-wrenching to see just how much flex there was in the floor. I could see at least three distinct differences in floor height/appearance, where I am assuming previous owners attempted repair.

I couldn't stop there for the night, I had to at least get a peak at what I am going to be up against.

I drew an outline 3 inches around the diameter of the hull as a cut line. I want to leave the fiberglass attached to the hull intact at this time until i can see what the guts look like.

Unfortunately, as i suspected, it is not looking good for the stringers and bulkheads so far. I was only able to get through in the bow before I had to call it quits for the night. I plan on tearing all the wood and deck fiberglass out tomorrow and vacuum everything up and see whats going on.
 

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Dbrown_rn

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More demo work accomplished yesterday. With how bad the rot in the stringers are, I think I am just going to bite the bullet and cut out those boxes and baitwells in front of the transom. I am also going to completely remove the casting deck and carefully dissect the 3" edge I left intact around the hull with the old sole. I saw a very similar project with the 17-foot version of this boat and it turned out really well.

I'll try and get some good pics of the bilge area and stringers because I am confused with the setup. the center stringers that want on each side of the fuel tank stop at the bilge area and I do not know what is supporting the transom below?
 

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Dbrown_rn

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Not too much excitement to report. Despite being in a stay-cation this week, it’s been extremely busy at home.
Still demoing. I have roughly 75% of the flotation foam removed...which is all water logged. I literally don’t think there is any solid wood in any off the stringers or bulkheads (no exaggeration)🤨

Ended the night yesterday after welding-up an outboard stand so I can remove the engine and start to dissect back to the transom.
 

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Woodonglass

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If the stringers are this bad then you can be almost certain the transom is bad too. You need to determine you plan for gaining access to it's wood core.
 

Dbrown_rn

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Its been a few days since my last post, but I've been working on demolition a little at a time when able. I have 8 days of work into it so far. Today I removed both rear boxes connecting the transom to the gunnels, and I believe these are definitely structural members. Other than those 1/2 fiberglassed plywood boxes, the only two stringers attached to the transom are the inside stringers and they are only 2.5 inches tall and 22 inches long. They dead-end into a bulkhead that spans the entire width of the hull. On the other side of that bulkhead are stringers that span the entire length of the boat. Not sure if this is a typical or acceptable design, but if anyone has opinions on it or if it should be modified I would love to hear them. You can see on the starboard side in the bilge area that the bulkhead was notched to accept the chase for controls and electric. It all appears factory to me, but it is crazy in my opinion how there is no glass on the end to encapsulate the stringer. I haven't removed the inner skin of the transom yet, but other than that, every piece of wood on this boat has been rotten, wet, or pulp....
 

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Woodonglass

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I hope you're taking LOTS of measurements during the demo. You'll need them for the go-back. It all looks original to me cuz it's very unlikely a restore project would use the old style Heavy Woven Roving shown in the pics. I'd recommend to continue gutting the hull and then grinding everything down to good glass and then start the go back. I'd keep the design pretty much the same just concentrate on doing a MUCH better job on the glass work and you won't have to worry about doing it again. Factory glass work, in most cases, is a joke at best. You WILL do much better and thus the boat will last a lot longer.
 

Dbrown_rn

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Definitely taking tons of measurements pre-demolition, during demolition, and post demolition.

I have all the rough measurements (with existing glass still in) for my stringers, bulkheads, and transom along with plywood for new sole, casting deck and boxes that support the transom.

Now I am trying to make a parts list for everything I will need to order to complete the project using polyester resin.

I know this topic has been covered and thousands of forums and believe me I’ve been looking for days and days and days but I am just getting things more confused and jumbled in my head. I think a lot of the confusion is that one forum starts talking about using poly or vinyl, and then the discussion turns to using a epoxy and I am just very confused on material that I would need to complete the project using polyester vinyl only. I know this topic has been covered in thousands of Forums and believe me I’ve been looking for days and days and days but I am just getting things more confused and jumbled in my head. I think a lot of confusion is that one Forum starts talking about using poly or vinyl, and then the discussion turns to using Epoxy and I am just very confused on material that I would need to complete the project using polyester or vinylester only, no epoxy.

so I guess my main questions are, if anyone could please answer or direct me to a page that has the answers ( I am even still slightly confused after reading WOG’s link on stringers,transom, and decks)

1. I plan on bedding my stringers and the transom in polyester resin peanut butter. Can I bed them, without making any fillet at that same time, Let that resin set up for a number of days until I can get back to the project, and then make my fillets and tab the stringers wet on wet at a later date? (Using laminating poly)

2. When people say they’re going to “tab” the stringers or transom, is that specifically referring to using some type of fiberglass tape versus full sheets that cover either the stringer or transom?

3. If tabbing does refer to using different widths of tape, can I tab and completely cover my stringers and or a transom at the same time?

4. Can I do this entire project using only 1708? Since that has mat on one side do I still need to use layers of CSM in between each layer of 1708? Or is the 1708 all by itself good enough?

5. If the 1708 can be used for the entire project… Tabbing, and complete encapsulation of my stringers and transom, how many layers would be recommended for encapsulating my stringers, and how many layers would be recommended for completely covering the transom? Outboard is 85hp

Again, I apologize because I know this information is out there, but the more I look the more confused I become. Any help is appreciated and I’ll try and keep everyone posted with the project. The only demolition I haven’t completed yet is removing the inner skin to actually see what the transom statuses. I’m going back to work starting tomorrow so I’m probably not going to have any updated pics for a while but I look forward to learning from the community as I go. Thanks again
 

Woodonglass

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Definitely taking tons of measurements pre-demolition, during demolition, and post demolition.

I have all the rough measurements (with existing glass still in) for my stringers, bulkheads, and transom along with plywood for new sole, casting deck and boxes that support the transom.

Now I am trying to make a parts list for everything I will need to order to complete the project using polyester resin.

I know this topic has been covered and thousands of forums and believe me I’ve been looking for days and days and days but I am just getting things more confused and jumbled in my head. I think a lot of the confusion is that one forum starts talking about using poly or vinyl, and then the discussion turns to using a epoxy and I am just very confused on material that I would need to complete the project using polyester vinyl only. I know this topic has been covered in thousands of Forums and believe me I’ve been looking for days and days and days but I am just getting things more confused and jumbled in my head. I think a lot of confusion is that one Forum starts talking about using poly or vinyl, and then the discussion turns to using Epoxy and I am just very confused on material that I would need to complete the project using polyester or vinylester only, no epoxy.

so I guess my main questions are, if anyone could please answer or direct me to a page that has the answers ( I am even still slightly confused after reading WOG’s link on stringers,transom, and decks)

1. I plan on bedding my stringers and the transom in polyester resin peanut butter. Can I bed them, without making any fillet at that same time, Let that resin set up for a number of days until I can get back to the project, and then make my fillets and tab the stringers wet on wet at a later date? (Using laminating poly) It's best to bed and fillet at the same time. Once you do one you'll see why. Make a Stringer Spanner jig to hold the stringers in position while the resin cures.

2. When people say they’re going to “tab” the stringers or transom, is that specifically referring to using some type of fiberglass tape versus full sheets that cover either the stringer or transom? You cut your own Strips from the roll of 1708 based on how much you need. The first tabbing should extend 1/2 way up the side of the stringer and out onto the hull 3-4 inches and then the final tabbing goes to the top of the stringer and out onto the hull about 6" You can try to go over the top but it's not easy. I use CSM Hair to seal the tops of the stringers.

3. If tabbing does refer to using different widths of tape, can I tab and completely cover my stringers and or a transom at the same time?

4. Can I do this entire project using only 1708? Since that has mat on one side do I still need to use layers of CSM in between each layer of 1708? Or is the 1708 all by itself good enough? 1708 is good for stringers, transom and deck tabbings. No more CSM required except to use on the bottom of the deck panels.

5. If the 1708 can be used for the entire project… Tabbing, and complete encapsulation of my stringers and transom, how many layers would be recommended for encapsulating my stringers, and how many layers would be recommended for completely covering the transom? Outboard is 85hp 2 transom Tabbings and one full layer over the entire transom is good enuf. 2 tabbings on stringers as described above.

Again, I apologize because I know this information is out there, but the more I look the more confused I become. Any help is appreciated and I’ll try and keep everyone posted with the project. The only demolition I haven’t completed yet is removing the inner skin to actually see what the transom statuses. I’m going back to work starting tomorrow so I’m probably not going to have any updated pics for a while but I look forward to learning from the community as I go. Thanks again

See comments in Red above
 

Dbrown_rn

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See comments in Red above

Thank you very much for all the details. Truly appreciate it.

Progress has slowed due to work, but today I was able to evaluate the transom. I started by taking 6 core samples using a hole saw without a pilot bit. This allowed me to chisel off the inner skin...and the transom was wet but not as bad as I thought. I still felt it was a wise decision to remove the inner skin while I had the boat apart. Plan on having the inner skin removed tomorrow. I will not be reusing because there are actually a lot of air pockets from the original layup. I have about a third of it removed and the transom was really wet. More pictures hopefully tomorrow after I get things removed. The good news so far is that I will have an intact transom to make a template from.

I ordered 5 gallons of poly resin along with 25 yds of 1708 and 1.5 oz. CSM and some filler....should be arriving this week. I'm am planning on using the marine plywood from Menards because they have it in stock down the road from me. THink it should be plenty good for a trailered boat that will be kept under a roof 24/7
 

Woodonglass

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exterior grade is cheaper and works just fine for transoms. You can pay the extra for the marine but it's NOT a necessity. To do the transom, stringers and deck you'll need around 20 gallons of resin. You've got plenty of 1708 and WAYYYYY to much CSM. If you can cancel your order of CSM it would be a good thing. You're only gunna need about 10 yards for the bottom of the deck and a little for the stringers.
 

Dbrown_rn

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exterior grade is cheaper and works just fine for transoms. You can pay the extra for the marine but it's NOT a necessity. To do the transom, stringers and deck you'll need around 20 gallons of resin. You've got plenty of 1708 and WAYYYYY to much CSM. If you can cancel your order of CSM it would be a good thing. You're only gunna need about 10 yards for the bottom of the deck and a little for the stringers.

Ok, exterior grade it is. Thanks for the estimate on the resin, I figured 5 gallons would be a good start and I know shelf life is a concern, but I will plan accordingly to get more when the time is right....I'm really hoping I can get all my ducks in a row and at least have the transom and new stringer glassed-in before I run out of good working temperatures for the poly resin here in Ohio. If I get to that point before its too cold, I can keep myself busy with rigging the electric and taking time to really plan if I want to change any hatch locations before putting the new sole in place.

As for the CSM, I have some cosmetic work I am planning to use that for on the center console, as well as a layer on the gunnels to fill some gaps and make it fare a little nicer before paint....but 25 yds still might be too much as I think about it.

As always, greatly appreciate the advice and help. Hoping more pics of the transom coming out soon, but this weekend starts 25 days straight of after-hours call for me so its tough to get into something when im on call...and definitely no fiberglassing when on-call
 

Dbrown_rn

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I had to pull the boat out of the shop so I could get to my pit to do some oil changes and exhaust work. This gave me an opportunity to get some sanding done on the transom with a flap disc before I pulled the boat back into the shop. I noticed a couple of things that are throwing me for a loop.

1. There is some kind of bow or deformity in the middle area of the transom, that when a straight edge is applied, vertical, to the middle of the transom, there is a gap at the base where the transom meets the hull

2. Although all edges seemed intact, at the base of the transom the outer most layer of CSM has a large void between the next layer....planning on grinding that out until it looks like good adhesion and then feather it with the grinder and laminate with glass to make smoothe before installing new transom wood.
3. Pretty much the same are, at the base of transom where drain hole is, is a large amount of resin. Do I need to grind out all resin down to glass before a start to install new transom? It will make the gap even bigger and I just don't know how I should go about filling that void so I have solid contact with the new transom wood throughout?
 

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Dbrown_rn

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I investigated the transom a little better. Using a straight edge on the outside surface it touches top and bottom with a dip in the middle. It has the same shape practically across the whole back. Could this be from design or more likely stress/fatigue. The gap by eye does not appear to be more than 1/4-3/8 of an inch. I was hoping to install a pre-lamented transom (x2 pieces plywood) but not sure if this option will work with the bow?
 

Woodonglass

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That's Not a major issue. When you install the new transom just put a bit more PB in that area and everything will be fine. With an outboard it's NOT as critical to have an absolute flat and parallel transom. No Worries!!!
 

Dbrown_rn

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That's Not a major issue. When you install the new transom just put a bit more PB in that area and everything will be fine. With an outboard it's NOT as critical to have an absolute flat and parallel transom. No Worries!!!

Awesome. That makes me feel a lot more comfortable I’ll get a good layout with the straight edge and focus on specific area that needs greater amount of peanut butter.
Hipefully planning on final prep and template making of transom tomorrow, glass on Saturday. More to come.
 

Dbrown_rn

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One last question for awhile. For my peanut butter, since I am strictly using polyester resin, along with the cabosil to thicken the resin, do I need to also add milled fibers of some sort to keep the resin from cracking when I fill my gaps and make fillets?

I feel like I read that you don't need with epoxy, but need fibers with polyester for strength and to keep from cracking?
Same question applies to my thickened resin that I will roll out onto backside of new transom before clamping into place.
 
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