1988 Force 125 low rpm vibration under power

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I bought a 1988 Glastron Z17 with a Force 125 on it yesterday. Spent all day today draining the fuel tank and replacing rotted floor deck. Took it out to the pond this evening and it vibrates the whole boat between low to mid rpm range. If I open it up more it's nice and smooth. Vibration comes back when slowing down again. There is a small chunk missing on one of the blades on the prop but i didnt think it was big enough to bother. It also won't tach over 3500 rpms but I think that is throttle adjustment. Going to look into that tomorrow.
 

tommarvin

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Nov 22, 2015
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We have a 125hp 1258x4A , We installed a 10 micron spin on water separating filter, no more water or bad stuff in fuel , make sure you get the two stroke 10 micron spin on filter. Don't worry about bad stuff in the tank.
Not sure about the vibration, A chunk out of the prop blade, Better get a new prop, I would get the same pitch, think it's a 15 not sure.
The odds are very high the carbs are dirty, drain and fill the lower unit with new factory seals, replace the impeller,
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I took the tank right out of the boat and cleaned it all out. Fresh tank of fuel in it now. I'll see if I can find any numbers on the prop in the morning. And about draining the lower unit. I can't find a drain screw. Only vent and fill screws up towards the top.
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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And btw there was over 15 gallons of water in the fuel tank.. had to worry about that bad stuff in the tank haha.
 

tommarvin

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Nov 22, 2015
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Be very careful, the drain screw for the lower unit is on the very bottom of the LU,you have to get on your knees and look up to see it.
It's not the gear shift arm pin on the starboard side of the LU,That has a different screw head.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
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Might want to think about doing a compression check and verifying that you have spark on all the plugs.
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I checked compression and spark before I bought it. 150-155lbs on all 4.


Also the only plug I saw on the very bottom was an allen screw? Is that the right one because it's tiny?
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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18,126
Yup that's the screw/drain.
.​The fill/ vent screws are just that.
You fill from one and let it vent out the other, I fill from both holes till oil comes out both.
Use Mercury drain plug washers.45176 Merc part#
The OEM Force/ Chrysler are a plastic crush ring that is marginal at best and not re-usable.
Mercs can be used again and again.(see my boats name :) )

Drop the lower and remove the pump and check the drive shaft for side to side movement.

The prop: Hook the hose to the lower and start it and put it in gear and see if the prop wobbles??
Yes? Then remove the prop and start again and check the prop shaft for wobble.
Don't buy a prop unless you know for sure what size. Guessing what someone else has isn't good.
A 125 on a 17 would probably be a 19p maybe even a 21p. A 15p would be for a heavier bigger boat. But I'm guessing??

Not sure how long this had been going on, was changing lube, greasing the PS I reinstalled the prop and just happened to spin it.
Big wobble. Under power not a bit of vibration, no nicks or dings.
It would have eventually wore the bearings in the carrier and caused failure.
Had a spare with a quarter size nick and it runs good and no vibration from the nick.

Remove the cowl when starting and watch the flywheel.
See if it runs true and no wobble.
Bought a "running great" 125.
Got it running and it almost shook off the stand.
The flywheel key had slipped, not sheared and the FW flopped as it turned.
New key and re-torqued.
 
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Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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Flywheel doesn't wobble. I'll drag the hose around the house in a bit and see if I have any wobble in the prop but i don't think I did when I ran it before on the hose
 
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Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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So good news for once lol. No wobble in the lower unit at all and fluid is nice and clean. Headed to pick up a used stainless prop now. Mine had a little 19 stamped on it between two of the blades. I'm assuming it's a 19 pitch?
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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Ok. The guy wasn't home when I went out. So I called my uncle and he has a 1987 force 125 on his bayliner. I grabbed the prop off his to try it but it's a 17p aluminum. Will that make a big difference?
 

Tinman78

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And I also adjusted the throttle linkage. At WOT the butterflies were barely over half open. Adjusted it so that at WOT they are flat and I'm hoping that was my problem with only being able to tach 3500. Headed out to the lake shortly and I will find out. Hopefully the rain holds out.
 

Tinman78

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Ok so I'm on the lake now and with a 17 pitch prop it does 27 at 3900 rpms but that's all it has at WOT. And at takes longer to plane off then it did with the 19 pitch with a chunk missing. And the vibration is the same with the new prop. Also it coughs and dies at idle now
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I took the carbs off and cleaned them. Idles much smoother now. Still can't get it over 4000 rpms and 28 mph. But also I won't have trim until Tuesday when the new pump comes in. Maybe that's my issue
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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Well I bought a 17p stainless prop on the way home from the lake. Also got good news that my trim/tilt motor will be in tomorrow morning. I'm really hoping that most of my problem is that the trim is too low and it's driving the bow down into the water and hence it can't plane off correctly. I putting the new prop and trim pump on in the morning and going to go back on the lake tomorrow. I also noticed that after cleaning the carbs that a little bit of gas spits out the side of the lower carb while running. Is that float adjustment? And how do i set the float?
 

jerryjerry05

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To adjust the float.
You need to take the carb off and take it apart and clean it and then adjust the float.
Look on U-tube for video's about setting the float.
The carb upside down, the float should be level with the base of the carb.
 

pnwboat

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Oct 8, 2007
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Normally there's a metal tab on the float that pushes against the needle valve. You just bend the metal tab slightly to adjust the float level.

I've seen some of the replacement white plastic floats that do not have the metal tab. Instead it's a plastic tab. Not sure how you would adjust the float in that situation.

I found a set of used really beat up carbs very cheap that had the plastic floats with metal tabs. The floats were fine, so used them and they worked great.
 

Tinman78

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Dec 6, 2015
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I just went out to the old boat motor junkyard guy near me and he's got hundreds of force motors. He gave me a whole carb for free
 
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