1988 yamaha 200hp ETXG oil injection questions

fairshopperguy27

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Working with my dad on a bit of a project he probably shouldn't have gotten into. It's a 1989 pursuit 2000 with a 1988 yamaha 200hp model ETXG. This boat has been stored and hasn't ran for 8yrs. The original owner who we got it from fogged the cylinders and drained the fuel tank. Amen to that. So we put 20 gallons fresh fuel in, changed the lower unit oil, new water pump, oiled the cylinders with a squirt of 2stroke oil and put new plugs in. Also changed the water separator and fuel lines. Rotated it by hand for a bit then hit the key and it Fired right off! Smoked like crazy but it cleared up. Idled it for 10-15mins off and on Then came the trouble. An alarm coming from the shift controller came on while idling and it appeared that it was starting to overheat because the blue smoke turned to white and the water coming out of the pee tube was super hot. Cylinder heads were very hot too. Both remote and main oil tanks were full. And I have no trouble feeding the main tank under the hood from the remote tank, fills fine with holding up the switch. I believe the oil injection system just may not even be working? I pulled two of the oil lines that lead into the side of the carbs and there was no fresh oil in them, I blew them out with air and it appeared to just have a little bit of old blueish and brownish oil. Feeling a bit paranoid I went ahead and mixed 50/1 into the 20gallons in the fuel tank. Towed it around the block to mix up the oil/gas. After getting the mixed fuel through the squeeze ball & line, I fired it back up, normal color blue smoke, but the alarm came back on after about 3-4 mins of idling and everything still seemed hot? Any thoughts? I'm really thinking about just disconnecting the oil injection system unless I can somehow verify that it is in fact working.
 

flyingscott

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I think I would look at the cooling system did you check the thermostats is it a salt water motor. After 8 yrs could be something plugging the water intakes or any of the passages. If you are running 50-1 mix you should not be overheating again, once you get the overheating problem fixed to check the oil injection is easy. Just make a mark on the external tank and see if the level goes down while running 50-1.
 
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fairshopperguy27

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I think I would look at the cooling system did you check the thermostats is it a salt water motor. After 8 yrs could be something plugging the water intakes or any of the passages. If you are running 50-1 mix you should not be overheating again, once you get the overheating problem fixed to check the oil injection is easy. Just make a mark on the external tank and see if the level goes down while running 50-1.

Hmm makes sense the pee stream is not very strong. Yes this has been run in salt. Thanks I'll check the thermos, should I just replace them? Or can they be cleaned up? And where are they on the motor/how many? Thanks!
 

flyingscott

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You might need to get a factory manual I think the thermostats are on the top of the heads on that model ,they will need to be replaced with new. If the water passages are plugged you may need the remove the water jackets if possible and scrape them. Be prepared to break bolts salt water motors have there own set of problems.
 

fairshopperguy27

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You might need to get a factory manual I think the thermostats are on the top of the heads on that model ,they will need to be replaced with new. If the water passages are plugged you may need the remove the water jackets if possible and scrape them. Be prepared to break bolts salt water motors have there own set of problems.

I did some research and yes there's two thermostats located at the top of each head. Should be stainless bolts, should I heat up the aluminum before I try to break them loose? Impact gun? I do not want to break bolts!
 

tommarvin

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Your going to snap bolts off, you can pay a shop, or you can drill them out .
The risk of heating the stat bolts is you can wreck the head gasket, now your going to snap more bolts off removing the head.for a new head gasket.
You can spray PB blaster on them for a few days before you try and remove them. Some guys heat then tap the end of the bolt before they try and remove the bolt with a breaker bar.
 

flyingscott

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It is still stainless in aluminum gonna corrode together. Try tapping the screw first then with the socket on gently work it back and forth you may get lucky. But it's a salty
 

fairshopperguy27

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It is still stainless in aluminum gonna corrode together. Try tapping the screw first then with the socket on gently work it back and forth you may get lucky. But it's a salty

Would you warm up the motor before trying to remove them, that way the aluminum around the SS bolts is warm? Doesent aluminum expand when heated? Thanks for the replies!
 

flyingscott

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No I would not warm the motor up first because you will never get it warm enough to make a difference. The temps you need to loosen the bolts will damage the motor itself. If you want to try a torch use just a small propane torch. Hopefully your motor is the salt water edition.
 
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fairshopperguy27

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Great news! Both sets of thermostat housing bolts came out with no problems. Now im just waiting on the new gaskets & thermostats to arrive. Hopefully I'll get a better pee stream after I get the new thermostats in and it will cool down to where I don't trigger the alarm.
 

99yam40

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stats have no bearing on the tell tail stream.

what did the stats and cooling passages look like behind the stats when you pulled them out?

water pump, cooling passages, and PRV will have a bearing on cooling
 

fairshopperguy27

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stats have no bearing on the tell tail stream.

what did the stats and cooling passages look like behind the stats when you pulled them out?

water pump, cooling passages, and PRV will have a bearing on cooling

A little bit of salt build up but really not that bad at all. Got it clean with a brush and air. It has a brand new water pump and now new thermostats, what is the prv?
 

fairshopperguy27

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I bought some salt-away with an in line hose attachment, I'm thinking maybe that will help clear things out?
 

tommarvin

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Ive' read here salt away doesn't remove any buildup.
Just for fun, put the stats in water, slowly heat the water on the stove, what temps do the stats open?
The last resort is clean the cooling water passages,make sure you have done everything else correctly first.
If this is your first impeller change, you-tube explains it perfectly. Just trying to eliminate things off the list.

H
 

99yam40

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A little bit of salt build up but really not that bad at all. Got it clean with a brush and air. It has a brand new water pump and now new thermostats, what is the prv?

Pressure Relief Valve
if it sticks open it will dump too much water through the exhaust and the block will not fill up with water at low RPMs
 

fairshopperguy27

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Pressure Relief Valve
if it sticks open it will dump too much water through the exhaust and the block will not fill up with water at low RPMs

OK I'm trying to locate this prv for my 88' yamaha 200etxg but im having trouble. Do you know a good site with pictures/schematics to order parts from? Thanks
 

fairshopperguy27

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OK I'm trying to locate this prv for my 88' yamaha 200etxg but im having trouble. Do you know a good site with pictures/schematics to order parts from? Thanks

Okay I've got the parts on the way. Hopefully after I replace the PRV I'll have a good solid tale stream. Here's the parts list I ordered for my 1988 yamaha 200ETXG. I see this prv is used on many different yamaha outboard models so maybe this will at least give someone who comes across this thread in the future a head start, but please do verify fitment for your own engine.

PRV: 6G5-12416-00-00
Grommett: 90480-20M05-00
Spring: 90501-16M11-00
Gasket: 6G5-11382-A1-00
 

99yam40

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best thing to do is open it up and have a look to see if it is sticking open or not.

Be careful when removing the grommet and installing the new one.
they like to fall inside the hole causing you to fish it out with a bent wire
 

fairshopperguy27

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best thing to do is open it up and have a look to see if it is sticking open or not.

Be careful when removing the grommet and installing the new one.
they like to fall inside the hole causing you to fish it out with a bent wire

Just wanted to give a quick update. After installing the new thermostats i went ahead and fired it up with the in-line salt-away solution. Idled it for about 5mins until it heated up and the alarm sounded again. Tale stream still not real strong. Waiting on the PRV to arrive, hopefully that will be my fix. Is the housing for the PRV under the backside of the flywheel?
 

fairshopperguy27

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Thought I'd end this thread by saying my issue is fixed! It was simply overheating because the garden hose was not providing enough water to cool the block. I bought a infrared temp gun today and backed the boat down into my local boat launch, idled for about 20mins hit it with the temp gun and got a reading of 120- 125 degrees at each cylinder. Thanks again to those who responded.
 
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