1989 85hp force carb spring Q

Flag719

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On my 89 85hp force carbs while doing a cleaning and gasket replace the middle carb had a nozzle spring above the bolt for the bowl. But the top and bottom carb did not have a nozzle spring. I left the spring out and it will not run without that one nozzle spring in. So I put it back in and it runs good in the driveway but when I put it under a load at the ramp it bogs down and shuts down right when it gets a load on it. Boat completely empty. Am I drawing air maybe on one of the bowls? And also should I order new carb kit with the springs? From what I read 89s and below had the nozzle spring but it ran good before I pulled the carb to clean them and replace worn and leaking gaskets.
 

Flag719

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Perfect I'll pick a can up in a bit and try it. Didnt think about finding it that way. I'll update in a bit.
 

Flag719

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Update... so after giving it a few shots of starter fluid it was pulling around two of the bowls and one of the fuel lines on the side of the carb. There was no leak of fuel what so ever but it was definitely pulling air. Gonna change gaskets and replace hose clamps as the one that is leaking has a zip tie for the clamp. I'll update after I get that taken care of.
 

Flag719

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So finished the carb rebuild and runs like a charm now. The bowl on the middle carb must have been replaced with the wrong bowl. After looking even with new gaskets the bowl wouldn't seat or press in to the gasket causing it to suck a little bit of air to throw it off. So now its running around 4500 RPM and around 25 SOG at WOT. Its sucking the gas down pretty hard making the fuel bulb almost collapse all the way but never makes it shut down or cause any issues that I can see besides gas $$$$$. Does this sound normal?
 

jerryjerry05

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WOT should be 53-5500
Speed, depends on the boat, load and prop.
Does it have trim and tilt?
What boat and prop?

Top 4 posts here on the Force forum.

They have tips and procedures to help your motor run better.
Read them, the one called a "link and sync" might help.

Do a compression and spark test.
If your getting 4500 it should be ok, do it anyway.

The squeezie shouldn't collapse,???
There might be a restriction somewhere in the fuel system?
The tank, built-in or a portable?
Built-in, check the vent hose, bugs get in and make nests, blocking the line.
Portable, open the vent.
 

Flag719

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Boat is a 1700 Maxum. The load was 2 adults and 2 small children 50lbs at max of gear. I stopped by my local shop and compression was good, new spark plugs (I'll test just to make sure wires are all good). I'm using a portable tank right now due to a leaking tank that I'll fix over winter. I cant read anything on prop. Previous owner said he hadn't changed it out so it could be the original. Tilt trim is good and I trim it up to help out. I have the vent open and seems to work fine.
 

Flag719

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I also have an issue with the serial numbers. On the transom mount its stamped 1253X7B. But on the Engine block its 856A9E. Is this a common thing? I've looked them up and the 125 was in 87 and the 85 was in 89 but just kinda threw me off.
 

jerryjerry05

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The 856A9E where did you get that# ?
Under the electrics there's a foundry stamp.
The center # is the year the block was made.

If it really is an 89 then someone has changed the block over the years.

Post the results?
 

Flag719

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The 1253X7B is on the sticker that is by the transom bolts that has model, serial number, engine parameters and it also says 125hp. And the 856A9E is a white sticker on the block about 3 inches left of spark plugs. I tried posting pics but still working on that.
 

jerryjerry05

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The 856A9E could possibly be a part# ?
Loading pics, sometime you need to resize or use a photo sharing site,
something like photo bucket or similar.
 

Flag719

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Nordin

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As the leg and maybe the LU is a 125Hp 1987 and the power head is a 85Hp 1989, what gear ratio has the LU?
From what I know there was three different ratios for the LUs for the 3, 4 and 5 cylinder Force.
1,73:1, 1,93:1 and 2:1, but I do not know if and from what year they were for respective horse power rate.

If you have a LU with "wrong" ratio matched with the prop you do not got enough top RPM.
Maybe jerryjerry know better.

The prime bulb should not flat out as jerryjerry says.
If it does the went is clogged, the fuel hose to small or the check valve in the bulb do not open up all the way.
 

jerryjerry05

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Nordin was right about the gear ratios till 1988
Some time about 88/89 they started using the same gear ratio on all the lower units.85, 90 120 125 150
89 was the year they started using the 2 piece drive shaft.

If the drive shaft is 20/25 the gear ratio might be different?

That 856A9E IS a part #
Look under the packs for a foundry stamp.
 

Flag719

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So for the foundry number look under the power packs? Do you mean take the bolts out and look behind them? Is it just the 4 bolts? AMD how doni find out what ratio it's running?
 

Nordin

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Yews the foundry stamp is cast in the block.
Look under the mounting plate for the power packs.

To find out the gear ratio you set the gear in forward or reverse and then turn the flywheel one turn and check how many turns the prop will travel.
 
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