1989 force 125 in salt water

Tight line

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Jun 16, 2012
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Good morning all, I have a 1989 force 125 on a 17' Larson. the boat has always been used in fresh water, next season I am renting a slip in the raritan bay in new jersey which is salt water. This is my first yr with the boat so I am very new to boating on salt water. My questions are how do I prep the engine for salt water? The boat will be in the water for the summer so I can't flush it with fresh water. What else should I do to it ? I heard about zinc anodes where do they go dmthey go on the tilt trim motor? Is there anything I should do to the boat to get it ready for salt water, I'm not sure when the thermostat, impeller, seals behind the prop were changed do they need to be done? I been doing routine maintenance gear oil, plugs ,etc... thanks so much for any advice.
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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18,183
Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

If you going to leave it in salt water:paint the bottom.
Install a zinc on the transom and ground it to the motor.Don't paint the zinc.
No special things on the T/T it will be grounded through the boat zinc.
Under the prop is a zinc.It's probably original???
Replace it along with putting a zinc on the boat.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B00144AYDE/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=3375251&s=sporting-goods
This is a link to a plate zinc.
Being as it cant be flushed,not much you can do to it internally.
There is a way to install a flusher but TONS of work!!!
The seals are ok nothing needed there.
 

tpenfield

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Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

My questions are how do I prep the engine for salt water? The boat will be in the water for the summer so I can't flush it with fresh water. What else should I do to it ? I heard about zinc anodes where do they go they go on the tilt trim motor? Is there anything I should do to the boat to get it ready for salt water, I'm not sure when the thermostat, impeller, seals behind the prop were changed do they need to be done? I been doing routine maintenance gear oil, plugs ,etc... thanks so much for any advice.

You don't gotta do nothing to the motor. When you are done using the boat, tilt the engine all the way up out of the water. That is pretty much it.

Anodes would be OK, Usually there is one under the cavitation plate.

You will need bottom paint of the anti-fouling variety.

Did you know that your boat will float higher in salt water?

The I/O guys need to do a lot more in terms out outdrive protection and engine flushing, etc. Outboards are made to go in salt water.

So, no real worries.
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

The big difference between fresh water ops and salt water ops is you definitely need to flush the engine with fresh water for at least 5 minutes (recommended is 15 minutes) when you're done for the day. Skipping this just for a day can have costly consequences on the cooling system especially that impeller housing.
 

emoney

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Jul 19, 2010
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Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

OUt of curiousity, why can't you flush it? Is there no fresh water at the dock? Just want to make sure you know that you can flush it with it tilted enough to get the muffs on. I've even flushed it with the LU trimmed down before as it's still only going to draw the fresh water from the hose since it's pressurized.

Definitely check you anodes and replaces the ones that aren't fresh, or corrosion will set in too early. Nothing else to worry about as it's still water. As to the "what should I do" question, I'd definitely change the impeller and the LU fluid, just because it will be a lot easier to do out of the water, of course. That is one thing that's different: the impeller really should be changed once a year when you're running in the salt. Welcome to the "Salt Life", btw. There ain't nuthin' better.

**EDIT** OOPS, almost forgot. If you're leaving the boat "in the water" in the water, you want to make absolutely sure that your bilge pump is wired directly to the battery and is also wired with a float switch so that it's automatic. It's not about the salt water, when it comes to dock sinkings, it's about the rain water. It's got to get out of the boat somehow. I'd want very, very fresh batteries in there too and check on it's charge periodically. Shore power is a beautiful thing when it comes to a charger, or you can get a solar maintainer to do the work for you too.
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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18,183
Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

Erics right about the bilge pump and automatic switch.
A dual battery setup with a switch is a good idea too.
Hook one of the cheap solar chargers to the pump battery.
I've kept my boat in salt water for years when I lived in Md.
The salt water will eventually eat any exposed metal.
I used barrier coat and then a good anti-fouling on the parts that stay in the water.
Like the bottom of the transom mount,and the nose cone of the drive.
Just painting with some bottom paints will eat the aluminum too.
These older Forces were made for fresh water,newer outboards were made to resist the salt.
The zincs need to be new.They may look good but will need to be replaced.
The older Forces have one undr the prop.
Any you install need to be under water to do any good???
When the motors tilted out of the water so is the zinc.
That's why I suggested the plate zinc.The clip on Grouper zinc works well too.
 

Tight line

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Jun 16, 2012
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Re: 1989 force 125 in salt water

Wow, great advice everyone,thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate it.
 
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