1989 Force 125 No Spark cylinder 1

FlightsRin

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
10
I bought a 1989 Wellcraft CC with a 1989 Force 125 outboard last fall. I ran the motor on muffs in the yard and it ran fine, pumped water, etc. Long story short, since last fall I have not been able to get this motor corrected. I finally started tinkering with it off and on the past few weeks and have it narrowed down to no spark on cylinder 1. I swapped coils around and the problem still exists on #1, so I ruled out the coils. I did the ohm tests on the stator, both sides tested out around 750s. I did the ohms test on all the trigger wires, each was 48-52 range. I pulled off a white kill wire and no spark on #1. I tried the other white kill wire and still no spark on #1. I've done everything on the check list with the exception of the DVA reading as I don't currently have one. How do I know if this CDI is shot and furthermore, which one? One of the CDI boxes is only a year old according to the previous owner and the other is original. looking at them the new one is definitely new and the other has been on a while. The new one has a part no. 116-8301 and was just put on before i bought the boat. I've rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump so no issues there. Just really stumped as to what to do next. I've called 3 different marine shops now and no one wants to work on it. Where to now? Thanks in advance. BTW, I have searched, searched and read till I can't read anymore on the site here, tons of good info, but I feel like I've exhausted most of my leads.
 

ToonTy

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
27
I found that if I ran a resistance test on the two wires running to the CD modules from the stator and got a reading the CD module was faulty. I believe it should be a closed circuit, so for my multimeter it would read 1 no matter what setting I had the ohms dial on if the CD module was good.

Easy test and worth a shot.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
You swapped the coils and did all ohms reading with sat reading. But there's one thing you did not do, swap the CD modules. Try swapping the CD modules first and then post back. I understand this takes a lot of work but it's worth it.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,596
Do as Jiggz suggest swap the CD modules and se if the issue follows.

Reading the resistance at triggers and stator is not the best way to troubleshoot, yes it gives you some ides but a good Ohm value for the stator and even the triggers can fool you.

You should check out the voltage output from the stator windings and the triggers.
Factory manual says 210V DVA or more for the stator output and 0,5V DVA for the triggers.

To read right voltage output you need a DVA reading VOM or an DVA adapter for a regular VOM.
If you are handy you can build your own DVA adapter, google it and you will get a lot of results of schematics.
A DVA adapter is a simple rectifier that charge a capacitor for you to read the peak voltage from the stator/trigger.

I have build my own DVA adapter and it works perfect. Have used it many times when troubleshooting ignition systems.
 

FlightsRin

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
10
So, I swapped the CD modules around and now I have no spark in cylinder 3. I would assume this tells me that the CD module is bad. However, the CD module that would apparently be bad is the new one that was just put on last year. Or is the old one bad causing the new one to not fire correctly?
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
There are two circuits in each of the CD modules and yes, even a brand new one can break down all of a sudden without any prior symptom. One CD module is totally isolated from the other, but not the two internal circuits. So when they say that a CD module is affecting the other module, is not quite accurate. What they problem mean is that one circuit is affecting the other circuit internally within a module.

These CD's are solid states or electronics and can go bad in any instant. I like the original blue ones that originally came with the motor, if you can find one. Otherwise, the new black ones will also do.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,596
Are you sure the "new one" CD module was put on just before you bought the engine?
It can be sold as used.
It is a pitty, but I do not believe anybody when I bought used things, especially OB and boats.

Expect everything to be wrong!
 

FlightsRin

Cadet
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
10
Well, bought a new CDI today to the tune of $315, :embarassed: and we now have spark on all 4 cylinders. Getting ready to head to the lake to sync the carbs, etc. The guy I bought it from had the receipt for the new CDI so I do believe him. There isn't a scratch or speck of dust on the new one they put on. All I can think is they maybe hooked something up wrong and fried it from the get go. Who knows........
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
That's not a bad price considering some stores have them for more than $400! Hopefully, this will last you a long time!
 

RCO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 15, 2016
Messages
350
One of the most valuable lessons i ever learned as a mechanic: "new" is not the same as "good" .
 
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