1989 Force 125 Trim/Tilt repair

[Tim@atcracing.com]

I read numerous stories in this forum on how to fix trim/tilt leak down problems. I replaced every rubber item in entire system. I solved the leak down problem. My concern now is that I can still manually pull the prop up by hand. If I put it in reverse in the water, will my prop still want to climb out of the water as before? If so, the only reason I can assume it might be is inside my tilt cylinder there is some kind of valve going through the piston that connects the oil on both sides of the piston. Could this be failing, allowing me to easily lift the tilt manually in all positions. I dont think you should ever be able to manually lift the motor on a powered trim/tilt system. I does not seem safe to have your prop climb out of the water while giving it gas in reverse. Please advise

 

[clanton]

Re: 1989 Force 125 Trim/Tilt repair

Very easy to test valve in cylinder, remove line from pump that goes to top of cylinder. Block line with inverted flare fitting, lift motor, motor should be locked in position. If you can lift motor piston seals, or kickup valve in piston leaking.

 

[Tim@atcracing.com]

Re: 1989 Force 125 Trim/Tilt repair

I installed the inverted flare as you advised. I could no longer lift the motor. It was rock solid as should be. I dont know what else I can do to the pump. It seems I have done everything. I put all new "O" rings, I removed the steel cap on the valve body and replaced with tecumse lawn mower float valve kit as advised. I was not sure how to asjust the set screw with the jamb not on the boss standing of the pump. Could that be a problem? I did notice when I lower the motor all the way down the trim cylinder pulls really hard. I would call it too hard before it starts to bypass. It almost acts as if it wants to bend the shaft it attaches to. Could this be the set screw, and jamb nut adjustment? Could this be related to the "easy to pull the motor up" problem? Please advise.

 

[clanton]

Re: 1989 Force 125 Trim/Tilt repair

I think the set screw and jam nut is a pressure relief adjustment. If I remove, I always count the number of turns and put back the same number of turns. If the cylinder is holding after blocking tne line. The fluid is bypassing inside the pump housing or the check valve. I would remove the check valve and recheck the seals and the seats inside the cap. If the seal has a bevel on the inside hole, place this bevel toward the needle. Recheck o-rings on check valve and shuttle valve.