1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

[bwporter]

Hello all,

New to outboards and this forum (1st post). Did some searching and I cannot seem to find any links or cross-references to my specific setup. So here is what I have:

1. 1990 bayliner capri
2. 90 hp force outboard crossfire fuel injection(CFI)
3. power trim and tilt manufactured by Minn Kota (MKN5500): I dont think this is the factory orignial setup
4. motor and pump assembly by oildyne / parker (2384829): 3.5" metal reservoir

The problem Im having is that my pump valve body which the motor and reservoir fasten to is cracked and leaking. Thus I need to get a replacement valve body. The motor works fine and lifts / lowers the motor no problem, however the ATF fluid leaks out very quickly. I have removed everything from the boat and have confirmed that it is not a seal or gasket issue, it is a cracked valve body. I have considered repairing the valve body but Im certain it would just crack / leak again, which is why I am replacing it.

The image below shows the exact setup I have, item 4 is the motor / pump assembly, item 15 is a fitting fastened to the VALVE BODY which I need a new one.

I have found a similar assembly but since it is a high volume pump, I dont know if it will work with my system, can anyone confirm?

Its here (Pg. 6of11 VB-501N-2): http://www.go2marine.com/docs/mfr/api/20-30.pdf

Any information that can lead me in the right direction is greatly appreciated. If you have experience something similar and succesfully repaired your valve body, please reply with some advise.

If all else fails I will just purchase a complete new assembly and make an adapter bracket if required. Would this setup work for me?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Tilt-Trim-Motor-Mercruiser-late-w-Oildyne-Pump-/270538401983?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3efd5868bf

*UPDATE:

This is the valve body and location of the crack:

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

That is definitely after-market as the engine mounting clamps are bolted to the tilting plate.

 

[bwporter]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

That is definitely after-market as the engine mounting clamps are bolted to the tilting plate.

Yeah, I figured it wasnt the OE. Im going to tear down to the valve body tomorrow, clean it up real good and TIG weld the crack. When done it will be pressure tested (bench), then re-assembled and back in the water. If it fails, I will be purchasing the new one from the ebay auction.

Does anyone know how difficult it will be to adapt the 3 wire trim pump to my existing 2 wire setup?

 

[Bigprairie1]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

Welcome to the Forum BW. I have the exact set-up: boat and motor and year....1990. However, I do not have the power tilt...Force or aftermarket.
Regardless, you will get a lot of good advice here.
Good Luck
BP

 

[bwporter]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

Welcome to the Forum BW. I have the exact set-up: boat and motor and year....1990. However, I do not have the power tilt...Force or aftermarket.
Regardless, you will get a lot of good advice here.
Good Luck
BP

No power trim / tilt?, this motor is pretty heavy, you must leave your boat in the water or not worry about damaging the bottom end / prop. I can manually lift the motor but I would much rather have the hydraulics in place in case of emergency. Its also nice for setting the right position to maximize the performance of the motor based on boat load and water conditions.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

It is easier and better to go from three wire to two wire but two to three can be done. Assuming you do have relays: connect the three wire ground to the engine block. Disconnect the MOTOR grounds from the relays and insulate them. Connect ONLY the relay coil grounds to the block. Then attach the power wires as usual and the signal wires to relays as usual.

OR you can bypass the relays and power the three wire motor directly. Black to engine block ground, Green to Down, Blue to Up. Use a heavy duty MOM switch power to center terminal (10-12 gauge wire) Top terminal to down and bottom terminal to up on motor (again #10 wire. This is brutal because you are running 20-30 amps up to the dash switch. Relays are much safer and better

 

[RRitt]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

without knowing where the pump attaches, what kind of fluid lines it uses, and the operating pressures it is impossible to answer your questions without opening other risks. I think the path you are on now is your only viable option.

 

[bwporter]

Re: 1990 Bayliner capri 90 hp oildyne power trim leak - valve body crack

Thanks for the replies.

Frank: I would for sure be using relays thus following option one.

RRitt: The TIG is done, once everything cooled down, I re-assembled the unit and applied two-part epoxy then a product called Water Weld by JB weld. Pressure testing tomorrow and hopefully a functional power tilt/trim unit, fingers are crossed.