1990 evinrude 60hp just quits after a few minutes of running and no fire

[Daiviee]

I just bought this rig from a guy that told me the power pack was bad to start with, so i ordered one and put it on. I never tried the engine to see if it would run and never asked why, just took his word it needed it. I took it to the water and put it in and it started up and ran perfect. As i opened it up i got up on plane and went about 3 minutes and it died. It wouldnt start up till the next day, so i took it out again and same thing. The fuel tank is in front of boat so i disconnected it there and ran a short hose from a different tank with new line and bulb. This time i went the same distance and it felt like one or two clyinders quit then 3 seconds it just died again. Could it be a bad power pack or the timer under the flywheel? Every time it will start the next day but no fire till then. Thanks Dave

 

[Joe Reeves]

Closely inspect the stator under the flywheel to see if it is dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area. If it is... replace that stator as this condition results in a AC voltage drop to the powerpacks capacitor, which in turn results in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition
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Remove the black/yellow wire (kill circuit) from the ignition switch "M" terminal, then hook a volt meter between that "M" terminal and any ground, having the meter adjusted so that it would read even a micro-volt.

Now, while observing the meter, turn the key to the ON position (engine NOT running). I any voltage registers on that meter's scale, even a micro-volt... replace the ignition switch as it is shorted internally which will destroy the powerpack.

 

[Daiviee]

Hey Joe? I looked at the stator and it had stuff leaking, so i put in a new one and also a timing plate. I only get one spark then nothing. Im guessing the new power pack is bad? Is there a way to test these items?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Check the rubber connectors between the timer base and the powerpack, also between the powerpack and the coils. The pins and sockets have a habit of backing out resulting in a poor and intermittent connection.

There's a way to check both the timer base and the powerpack which I'm pretty sure is outlined in the service manual but I could never remember what it is... you'll need to look it up.

Do this test.... Remove the black/yellow wire from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch, then check the spark. If you have spark with that wire disconnected but no spark with it connected, replace the ignition switch.

Let us know what you find.

 

[Tim Frank]

+1 ^^^^

A) Check every connection you can for tightness and cleanliness. I believe that many power packs (like fuel pumps) are changed without proper testing and end up NOT being the cause of the original problem.

B) Before I spent several hundred + on a new power pack, I'd try a $10- can of Freeze-spray from an electronics store. When the spark cuts out, sequentially "freeze" the ignition components and connections, checking for return of spark as you go. If spark suddenly returns the last item to be frozen should be your culprit.

Not as elegant as the official CDI troubleshooting methodology, but can often be a Q&D shortcut....it has worked several times for me.

You can followup with the CDI method if the freezing yields nothing.

 

[Daiviee]

I got it fixed, thanks to you guys for all the input. It was the cdi unit. The stator may have had something to do with it since it had stuff oozing out it. I replaced it also. I did check the ign switch and there wasnt any voltage coming out the b/y wire. Thanks again you guys are the best.