I have a 1990 Galaxy 190 Cuddy with a 3.0 4 cyclinder that will not start. It cranks over, but there is no spark. I have a see thru filter so i see fuel in the lines outside the carb. I have sprayed starter fluid down the throat just to see, but with no success. I have tried to search the forums before posting, and found the DDIS troubleshooting guide which is wonderful!
I have included the readings below, but will recap. I have 12.2 volts at the battery, 11.67 going in to the AMP and 11.45 going into the coil from the amp, which all seems to be within the acceptable parameters of 1/2 a volt.
I checked the resistance on the motion sensor, and have 170 ohms. when I crank the engine and monitor the resistance, I see it fluctuate between 0 and 170, which I believe is normal operation as it would be an off/on needed for each cylinder.
when I measured the coil from connector "a" to ground, I had an "open" which kind of threw me, since the guide said min of 10 megaohms, but if I think of it as low resistance short vs high resistance short, then I want a minimum of 10megaohms and a maximum of the highest resistance or even "open", correct? (basically, i dont want this connector pin grounded???)
If all this testing is correct and my numbers are within range, then now I am stumped, and not sure where to go from here.
I found a youtube video testing (car) coil packs, and it showed that using a test light, on the leads coming into the coil there is 1 wire that is a constant 12vdc, and one of the wires should be "switching". I decided to try this test and had my daughter crank the motor while I checked with a test light on each pin coming in to the coil. The constant 12v stayed lit the whole time, but I had NO light on either of the other 2 wires. Since I saw the resistance fluctuating on the output of the motion sensor, does this mean I have a bad amplifier? or is there something else I am missing, or need to check?
Just to add... I do not have a kill switch on this boat. If its in Neutral it will crank, if I shift into any other gear, it doesnt crank at all.
If it proves to be the amplifier, I will consider consider converting to regular distributor ignition, but wanted to exhaust everything else first.
is there a vehicle equivalent distributor that will work in these GM 4cyl motors, like a 1967 Chevy II or something like that? I know they wouldn't be USCG approved, but they would be a lot cheaper than the marine conversion kits.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks in advance!
ML
Engine info:
Casting No= 2770087
Engine year= 137-89
Serial No:There are no serial number tags, but the following number is listed on the fire arrestor- 85784.
Amplifier:
Battery Voltage= 12.2 VDC
From Amplifier to Coil= 11.45 VDC
Engine harness into Amplifier= 11.67 VDC
Ignition Coil:
Resistance A-B= 2.3
Resistance A-C= 2.3 Resistance 1-4= 13.67
Resistance 2-3= 13.68
Resistance a to grnd= open
Motion Sensor:
Resistance= 170
I have included the readings below, but will recap. I have 12.2 volts at the battery, 11.67 going in to the AMP and 11.45 going into the coil from the amp, which all seems to be within the acceptable parameters of 1/2 a volt.
I checked the resistance on the motion sensor, and have 170 ohms. when I crank the engine and monitor the resistance, I see it fluctuate between 0 and 170, which I believe is normal operation as it would be an off/on needed for each cylinder.
when I measured the coil from connector "a" to ground, I had an "open" which kind of threw me, since the guide said min of 10 megaohms, but if I think of it as low resistance short vs high resistance short, then I want a minimum of 10megaohms and a maximum of the highest resistance or even "open", correct? (basically, i dont want this connector pin grounded???)
If all this testing is correct and my numbers are within range, then now I am stumped, and not sure where to go from here.
I found a youtube video testing (car) coil packs, and it showed that using a test light, on the leads coming into the coil there is 1 wire that is a constant 12vdc, and one of the wires should be "switching". I decided to try this test and had my daughter crank the motor while I checked with a test light on each pin coming in to the coil. The constant 12v stayed lit the whole time, but I had NO light on either of the other 2 wires. Since I saw the resistance fluctuating on the output of the motion sensor, does this mean I have a bad amplifier? or is there something else I am missing, or need to check?
Just to add... I do not have a kill switch on this boat. If its in Neutral it will crank, if I shift into any other gear, it doesnt crank at all.
If it proves to be the amplifier, I will consider consider converting to regular distributor ignition, but wanted to exhaust everything else first.
is there a vehicle equivalent distributor that will work in these GM 4cyl motors, like a 1967 Chevy II or something like that? I know they wouldn't be USCG approved, but they would be a lot cheaper than the marine conversion kits.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks in advance!
ML
Engine info:
Casting No= 2770087
Engine year= 137-89
Serial No:There are no serial number tags, but the following number is listed on the fire arrestor- 85784.
Amplifier:
Battery Voltage= 12.2 VDC
From Amplifier to Coil= 11.45 VDC
Engine harness into Amplifier= 11.67 VDC
Ignition Coil:
Resistance A-B= 2.3
Resistance A-C= 2.3 Resistance 1-4= 13.67
Resistance 2-3= 13.68
Resistance a to grnd= open
Motion Sensor:
Resistance= 170
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