1991 454 Mercruiser Won't Start In the Mornings

Roman2179

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May 14, 2016
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We have a 1991 Rinker Fiesta Vee with a 454 and a Bravo 1 drive with 400 hours. The boat is slipped and I needed to run the boat to the mechanic to take a look at the trim limit switch, mainly because I don't feel like diving with tools to try to mess around with it.

When we got to the marina, the boat would turn over but would not start. We checked fuel. we had fuel. Checked spark, no spark from the coil. We left it at that and went to parts store to get new plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor. coil, and ignition sensor. They are all original parts so we figured we might as well do a tune up. Also brought a multi-meter and the Mercruiser Thunderbolt testing chart to go through it and figure out what went wrong.

When I came back in the evening, I tried to start it before changing anything out and it started right up. A little hard to start since I flooded it in the morning but it started. Idle smoothed out after a little while and I went ahead and changed the plugs. They were still a bit wet but otherwise looked fine. I left all the other parts in tact as I didn't want to swap it all out and find out the ignition module is bad.

Came back this morning in hopes that it would be dead again to be able to through the testing chart and luckily it would not start again. There is no power at the coil with the key switch on. The breaker on the engine has power on both sides. The solenoid next to the breaker also engages when trying to start the engine. Gauges get power. There is no kill switch on the boat.

So where do I even begin testing? I plan on checking and cleaning the wiring/connections behind the ignition switch, at the neutral safety switch on the shifter, and at the connector on the engine.

The purple wire on motor side that goes to the coil, is red on the harness that goes to the switch, correct?

Anything else to test from past experiences? I want to get this sorted out before I swap out everything else just in case the ignition module is also bad since the Thunderbolt IV modules are getting harder and harder to find. If the module tests bad, I would probably just convert to the AC Delco EST ignition. We don't know how long this problem has been going as were not usually on the boat this early in the morning.

Thanks in advance!
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
I would start with your electrical connections. Any time a hear intermittent and electrical, I assume connections first. Disconnect, clean them up, reconnect. As far as working in the morning vs afternoon, could be coincidence, temperature, moisture/dew.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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welcome aboard

first, clean all the connections, all the way to the ignition switch and back. is the safety lanyard in place?
 

jwdavis28

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Mar 14, 2016
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52
Let me clarify. It won't start first thing in the morning but it will later in the day? So sitting all night is an issue but waking it up at 2pm is no issue?
 

Roman2179

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May 14, 2016
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No safety lanyard so that's not the issue.

No spark the coil at 8am yesterday but when I came back in the afternoon to test it, i had power at the coil and ignition sensor. It started right up, minus a little smoking from me flooding it in the morning.

This morning I came back again today with a multi-meter, I had no power at the positive post to the coil from the purple wire. I will go back again later today and check to see if there is power at the coil now. I will also check and clean all the connections from the motor all the way back to the ignition switch.
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Check your ignition switch by bypassing it. It sounds like the $10 switch may have moisture in it
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... Check the key switch as Scott says, 'n possibly the cannon plug connection on the motor,....
 

Roman2179

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May 14, 2016
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So I went back tonight and, off course, it started without a problem. I checked and cleaned all connections at the ignition switch and at the coil. I noticed that the plug on the engine was a little lose and the clamp was finger tight. Pulled off the plug and cleaned those connections and plugged it in tight and made sure the clamp was on tight as well.

Before checking the connections, I was getting right around 12v at the coil. I had about 12.3-4 at the switch. After checking and reseating all connections, I am getting 12.3-4 at the coil, same as the ignition switch.

Hopefully that does it, I'll report back in the morning. If all goes well, I'll continue with the rest of the tune up tomorrow. Might be time to replace the 25 year old coil and sensor anyways.

I will test it all again tomorrow, I left all the panels hanging for easy access. This winter will be a full rewire project as I really don't trust the wiring on the boat. From the few things I have added, it looks like it was wired by an idiot. None of it makes sense, it looked like they were using the gauges as a common ground. I found some melted grounds that I replaced and put them on a proper ground bus. Either way, all of it is getting pulled and fresh wiring put in.
 

Roman2179

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May 14, 2016
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Stupid thing didn't want to start again this morning. It looks like the purple wire is broken at the plug to the motor. Wiggling the harness there showed continuity on the multi-meter. Bought some purple wire and going to run a new wire from the plug to the coil. If that fails, I will run a new wire all the way to the ignition switch as temporary solution before doing the full rewire in the off season.

I did run a temporary wire from the ignition switch to the coil to get it to the mechanic to take a look at the trim limit switch. He was the last one to work on it before it stopped working so I am letting him fix it. Probably just out of adjustment but I don't feel like diving underwater to fix it.

On the bright side, that means that the ignition module is working fine. As soon as the coil gets 12 volts, the motor fires right up.
 
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harleyman1975

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May 12, 2003
Messages
959
When you do the rewire make sure to buy the more expensive tinned wire...copper will corrode in no time flat.
 

Roman2179

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May 14, 2016
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The boat is completely wired with regular copper wire and it looks awful, especially after 25 years. The few things I have redone, battery switches and charging relay, and a new fuse panel for house loads have all been done with tinned copper wire. Just placed an order for 400 feet of wire to start some replacements.

I'm adding an auxiliary fuse panel in the cabin for the stereo, fridge, cabin lights, and the galley water pump just to get rid of some wiring from the helm. Plus, it's a 5 foot direct run to the battery switches and ground bus from there vs trying to snake the wires back to the helm.
 
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