1991 Johnson 150 Crossflow issues

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
First time posting, so I will try to make some sense of what's going on with my motor. It's a 91 Johnson 150 (TJ150SLEI) crossflow that I purchased July 3, 2019. I was told it was a great running boat (guy had video from June of him running it) and it cranked and ran fine on muffs.

I get the boat home, fix it up how I want it for bass fishing, launch it in the lake, and the boat idled fine but would not accelerate past 6mph (2k rpms). Eventually, the boat would just die every time I put it in gear. I immediately tried to contact the seller and guess what?!?! No response.

The first thing I did was remove all three carbs, clean all jets with carb cleaner and used a piece of steel wire to go through the jets. I changed all gaskets in the carbs, adjusted the floats per the specs in the FACTORY manual. Still, no improvement.

Next, I drained all fuel and added premium fuel with ethanol treatment added. No better. I also did a de-carbonizing procedure and replaced the plugs afterwords, no change.

Noticed that the previous owner had an electric inline fuel pump in place, not sure why, but I removed it, and retro-fitted to the dual fuel pump set up (pre VRO). Verified that after I connected new fuel pumps that they were working, still, no better.

Compression is between 84 and 87 on all cylinders. Which I know seems low, but per the manual as long as they are not varied greater than 15 psi, it should be fine. I have not done a leak down test, as I do not have the equipment.

Two of the ignition coils look like a rat had chewed on them, so I replaced them. I have two more coils with some damage to the housing, but have not replaced. However, I have checked them all and they are 'ohming' out within spec. Should I just change them anyway? Plug wires seem to be ok, but if I replace coils, I will replace wires too.

I also checked the flywheel and found the key was busted to heck. I replaced the key (OMC) and torqued the flywheel to spec. Verified timing was still correct (at idle). Still not running right.

I am getting spark to all cylinders, have checked my idle timing and adjusted, performed link and sync procedure, and am in the process of troubleshooting the CDI system step by step. I have verified that my peak voltage readings are within spec on the charge coil and sensor coil (timing base). Ohmmeter test are also OK. I am now checking the power pack, and when looking at the output to the ignition coil it says it should be 175V or higher, I am only getting 110V (I am quite certain the battery is fully charged) at all 6 'orange' leads going to the primary post on the coils. COULD A FAULTY POWER PACK BE THE CAUSE OF THE ENGINE DYING WHILE UNDER LOAD?

I am at my wits end. I have done about all I am capable of (except change all of my small fuel lines going to carbs/crankcase). Could it be an issue that maybe I am getting too much air due to a leaky fuel line? Head gasket leaking? Any help is greatly appreciated. This forum has been a massive help so far, but I am throwing a hail mary and hoping you guys that are much better than this can help me. Thanks a ton for reading this incredibly long post.

Respectfully,

Ryan
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,959
Your compression Numbers are quite low, might be the Gauge, try again with a different gauge.
Verify if the Spark can jump a 3/8" gap on every plug wire.
There is no Timing spec at idle. Idle speed is set strictly by the Retardation of the Spark. Is the the Maximum Timing Advance set to Specs? There is also a Pickup Timing Spec, is it set correctly? You did say that you did a Link and Sync.
When the throttle lever is pushed to wide open, is the timing fully advanced and are the carbs opening fully?
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
So I have used a couple of different gauges for compression, it's accurate. Spark jumps 7/16" on all cylinders. And I was erroneously referring to the throttle pickup timing as 'idle timing'. Throttle p/u timing is 7' BTDC per spec. I do not have a test prop to do the max spark advance timing. I have tried the Joe Reeves timing method, but not sure I did it correctly.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,895
Remove some bypass covers on the side of the block.----Just 6 small bolts on each one and a cheap gasket.-----Allows you to inspect pistons and rings.
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
I just indexed the flywheel, and all of the cylinders except number four are ABOUT 7 BTDC. #4 is about one or two degrees ATDC... is this relevant?

I also rechecked my voltage at the ignition coil primary lead again. And it's still registers only 120v with a completely full battery. Is it possible to have a weak output on the power pack, which would let the boat run in the driveway, but not under load? I guess when I'm asking, is it possible to have low output instead of all or none? If so, should I go ahead and replace the power pack?
​​​​​​
I I will order new gaskets for the bypass covers, and will look at the Pistons and rings shortly. I just want to rule everything else out before I look inside the motor.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,895
They all " bark and roar " in the driveway.--------Will sound good on 4 of 6 cylinders.-----Means nothing as far as trouble shooting goes.----And 12 volts from the battery is not involved in making the spark.----Other than spinning the flywheel fast so that the magneto makes the spark.
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
Ok, but what about the low voltage output from the powerpack to the ignition coil? Any ideas? Spark looks ok (jumps 7/16" gap with bright blue spark). Should I use the CDI troubleshooting guide for the powerpack diagnosis?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,895
If spark jumps 7/16" there is not much wrong with your magneto / ignition system.
 

dwco5051

Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
2,487
I have a 1990 175 crossflow on my bass boat and all cylinders have about 90#. It is a good runner and will run flat out. My first problem was an intermittent short where the wires from the voltage regulator wires went under the clamp on the block and would cause a similar condition. Fixed that and two weeks later could not get over 2000 or so rpm. While looking it over I discovered the small plastic roller on the throttle pickup and fallen off. Was my lucky day as I found both the roller and hairpin clip laying in the lower cowling.

Perhaps there is a problem with the shift interrupter switch and it is only firing on one bank when in gear. Get a buddy to go out on the water with you (preferably one who doesn't owe you money) and clamp a timing light on each spark plug wire at a time and be certain that all cylinders are firing when running wide open.

Bad or shorted temperature sender can also put you in slow mode among other things.

Go to the cdi troubleshooting guide;

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...20-%202012.pdf

Starting on page 37 it will give you an idea on what all can put you in slow-mode if all six are not firing.
 

dwco5051

Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
2,487
dwco-----Is there a shift interrupt switch on a 91 model 150 HP ?

Good question. The diagram I am looking at now shows 150-225 have a shift interrupter but it also shows port and starboard power packs on from 1986-1991. How ever my 1990 175GT has only the single power pack. I would have to answer with a qualified I don't have any idea.
 

Attachments

  • photo320656.jpg
    photo320656.jpg
    17.3 KB · Views: 0

dwco5051

Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
2,487
No shift interuptor switch on this motor, at least not that I see on the diagram in the manual

Had the diagram from a Seloc manual (should have known better) as my other manuals are in my shop filing cabinet 26 miles from home. Did some searching and it appears that 1988 was the last with the shift switch. The yellow/black on my motor harness that used to go to that switch on the older models is still there but now is used for the kill switch on my 1990.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,895
What do you mean by " 1988 was the last with the shift switch " as the shift interrupt switch is shown on a 2005 model 150 HP 2 stroke ?----And many other models after 1988 year.
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
Noticed just the other day that my key switch wasn't working correctly. Can only start by jumping solenoid at starter. Key does work to kill the engine, but will not start it. Also tachometer is showing some erratic readings. I don't have a clue what the heck is going on with this thing. Aside from replacing the key switch, should I look at replacing all the fuel lines under the cowling to ensure I don't have any sucking too much air?
 

dwco5051

Commander
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Messages
2,487
What do you mean by " 1988 was the last with the shift switch " as the shift interrupt switch is shown on a 2005 model 150 HP 2 stroke ?----And many other models after 1988 year.

Your are correct, if I am looking at the diagram 1988 seems to be the last year for dual power packs. The later diagram showed only the wire coming from the control without a label to show where it started from. After looking at the various diodes I figure that is in parallel with temp sensor, vro sensor, etc to put in slow mode. Is that correct before I give any more wrong advice. If so could some malfunction in the control cause the motor to not rev over 2000-2300 whenever he puts it in gear?
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
Fixed key switch... Blew a fuse. Must have grounded something when I jumped solenoid. Works fine now.
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
Ok, so still no improvement in the boat. I am going to replace all the gas lines under the cowl just to rule that out. Is there anything else I should do/check before I throw in the towel?
 

JerEazy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 26, 2017
Messages
234
Check the ground wires from the power packs and starter solenoid. And I don’t mean by looking. Give em a tug and a good check. Besides that check up underneath and make sure the flywheel magnets have some spacing to them that looks relatively uniform. No need to measure.

Old engine, old wiring. It can look good but be nothing that can handle the extra load of higher RPMs
 

texasippian

Cadet
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
12
Would the starter solenoid have anything to do with it dying when put in gear? Only while under load.
 
Top