1992 70hp Johnson - electrical issue - continued new

[Fisherg3]

I’ve got a problem with ignition. Here’s what I’ve done:

New battery showing 12.9 at on.
Cleaned all contacts
New battery post contacts
New OEM Solenoid
New OEM Key switch w/shrink wrap eyelets on key switch posts.
OEM
New starter.
When I switched out the ignition switch it worked for 3 starts and then stopped. Note that the crank was slow.

Current- turn key and overheat alarm beeps, choke taps when pushed in. Solenoid clicks when I turn key. No crank.

Battery jumper cables from battery to ground and touched starter. It was not a slow crank. It was a solid crank, and it started right up.

Any ideas?

 

[racerone]

Problem with battery cables , starter solenoid. loose connections.---And have that battery load tested where you bought it.

 

[Fisherg3]

All has been checked and came ok

 

[racerone]

Hurry----Run to your local , friendly boat shop for help.

 

[Fisherg3]

Right. The issue is there’s no one here that will even look at it due to its age. One shop will but they’re supposedly months out. So here I am

 

[racerone]

New starter from where ?---Factory or something else ?----Checked the " start in neutral only switch " in control box?-----Seems to me this should be easy to figure out.

 

[Fisherg3]

New starter from where ?---Factory or something else ?----Checked the " start in neutral only switch " in control box?-----Seems to me this should be easy to figure out.

Sorry it’s an OEM starter. How is the best way to check the “neutral only” switch? Its fairly new as well. Installed that along with the new temp alarm back in October. Not saying it’s not bad, just don’t know how to check.

 

[flyingscott]

Slow starter generally means bad ground. Look at where the battery ground is connected to the exhaust cover. If it uses the original extended stud that needs to be shiny clean. That is a weak spot on OMC motors. All connections need to be SHINY clean

 

[Fisherg3]

I think mine was coming out of the bottom of the main motor area and attached at the front of the motor. It was very corroded and so I cleaned it up soldiered a new wire and moved it to a more secure ground spot on the frame of the motor. Could that cause slow intermittent crank and start?

 

[flyingscott]

That should not have been on the front of the motor. The negative battery cables and all grounds are attached on the exhaust plate of that motor. You need to have the negative battery cable attached to the block.

 

[Fisherg3]

Ok so the negative of the battery is definitely grounded on the block. When I began this process that one random ground, to which I have no idea where it comes from was grounded to the front and outside of the motor, which I believe is a removable plate cover. It was loose and very corroded so I cut it back as far as i could and soldered a new end and eyelet connector and I grounded that to the block on the inside of the cover. Is this an ‘ok’ move or should I put it back on the outside? To me it seemed odd because it could get wet on the outside.

 

[racerone]

That ground has nothing to do with the starter motor.----Check the one wee wire from solenoid to a ground on the block.----Yes there is a ground there and about 4" long if I recall.

 

[Fisherg3]

Ok. Heading there now I’ll check it.