rhp5033
Cadet
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2018
- Messages
- 23
I want to share a success story that might be interesting to some people out there. I had an overheating problem last summer which ruined my 1990 150 evinrude crossflow and after blowing tons of money changing ignition parts and carb rebuilds, I eventually gave up on the motor. In the fall I came across twin 1993 evinrude oceanpro 150s on CL for 400 total.
These motors were off a fishing boat on the west coast that were sold at some point after a repower. They were acquired and mistreated by an owner in new jersey, and stored un covered outside in his back yard for an undetermined amount of time. One motor was completely stripped of parts and stored in a bucket. The other was mostly complete with some broken plastic parts. There were three lower units included and two SST props. one unit was counter rotating and the other two standard. One of the lowers was seized onto the stripped motor. The owner claimed the standard lower was blown, and the counter was fine but leaked oil.
I spent several weeks dismantling both motors and all lover units, cleaning parts, taking inventory and figuring out what I had and what I didn't. I found out that the seized lower unit was the wrong size for the motor and came off a V4 motor, and was probably forced into the crankshaft and resulted in getting stuck. That lower was sacrificed and cut up to remove. The other two lowers appeared to be matching lowers with the difference being one was standard and the other counter rotating.
I tore down both lowers, emptied the emulsified oil, cleaned and repacked all the roller bearings with marine grease, cleaned all of the casings of sludge, replaced the seals and gaskets, and filled with new gear oil. The gears and clutch dogs were perfect with no chipping. The cases did not leak and pressure and vacuum tested fine.
My plan was to do this as cheap as possible for the sake of not spending any more then I had to, and I didn't think it would be successful so why waste more money. both blocks were compression tested and both has a failed #1 piston and the cylinder wall heavily scored. Numbers were typically low 70s/ upper 60s psi with #1 being upper 30s / low 40s psi. I meticulously refinished the cylinder bores with a stone hone. 5 were just a deglazing, and #1 was hours of honing to remove the scoring. Again I am doing this on the cheap so I was not concerned with measuring or over boring etc. I successfully removed the scoring and all 6 cylinders had cross hatching and were cleaned of residue and metal particles. I cleaned all parts and reassembled the motor. I cleaned the carbon build up off the pistons and picked the best six from both motors and reassembled. I noticed when reassembling that some of the pistons had more slop in the bore than others. I decided to swap piston rings from other not used cylinders and this seemed to remedy the slop. I lubricated it with WD40 and cranked it to do a compression test.
Success! all six cylinders showed 90 psi with the butterflys closed (I know compression test is supposed to be at WOT with butterflies open but I didn't do that/know that then). However having done the compression test the same way before and after, the 60-70 psi cylinders came up to 90, and the 30-40 cylinder came up to 90, so I am very impressed. I proceeded with reassembly of the power head, and ignition system. I also rebuilt the carbs at this point and changed o rings and gaskets on the throttle body and pickup tubes because I had severe fuel leakage at these locations.
Once re-assembled I tried to turn it over and no go, it would just crank for days. I switched optical sensors and first turn of the key the motor roared to life. I then addressed all of the ignition parts. I replaced the optical sensor, coils, spark plugs, wires, and rewired a lot of the wiring harness that had broken wires and bad grounds. I cleaned all of the cowling and motor covers, repainted and replaced the stickers on the cowling. I cleaned out the power trim and flushed the hydraulics and filled with new fluids.
This motor was installed on my 1990 Seaswirl 210 WA in April and after its first test run I was not impressed with its performance. Very delayed throttle response, only achieved 3800 rpm WOT, etc. After unsuccessfully trying to time the motor with the Joe Reeves method, I caved and purchased the CDI Ignition analyzer, timed it and water trialed it. This time, much better out come. It hit 4000 rpm WOT and 29 mph. idle was smooth and so was WOT, however mid range 1500 thru 3500 was very rough and shook the whole boat. Also the rebuilt lower unit is the smoothest shifting lower I have ever experienced, and makes no indication of banging or grinding when shifting between neutral and forward or reverse.
I figured something still wasn't right though, so I explored different prop options. The first run was with a 4 blade 14x19 hustler that I had from my previous motor. I then trialed a 14x17 hustler that I also had and it hit 4800rpm and 34mph, a lot better (and technically in the rpm range) This prop seemed ideal, however the motor began to cut out intermittently at WOT (either fuel supply or ignition timing issue). It would run fine, then go completely silent, then roar back to WOT almost instantly and would happen sporadically. I then ordered and tested a 4 blade 15x15 hustler and hit 5300 rpm and 37mph (with full tank of gas, enclosure up, two adults onboard plus tools). This prop did not experience any of the above mentioned surging, so I assume it was a WOT timing issue? Either way it went away so im not worried about it. I do plan to trial the SST 14x19 3 blade that came with the motor in the near future, and possibly a 3 blade 14.75x17 just for comparison with the 4 blade 15x15. It seems like the RPM at WOT between the 3 blade 17p and 4 blade 15p should be equivalent, and the real comparison im looking for is hole shot and top end speed. More than likely I will stick with the 4 blade though.
The motor was running great at idle and WOT, but was still very rough between 1500 and 3000 RPM. After running the outboard with the 15x15 prop and cruising for a while in each rpm range that was rough, the shaking has almost nearly settled out, and I am confident that after more break in at all rpms it will get even better.
I know from reading tons of rebuild posts that this is all probably making some of you cringe and think I am a complete idiot for not having the block professionally bored and new pistons and rings installed, but I spent under 1000 on this motor and if it works for one season only, it was worth it, and if it lasts longer, than it was extremely worth it. Also I plan to rebuild the second power head I have with new pistons, rings, and crankshaft (since the one I have has a drive shaft sezed in its end) as a spare powerhead in case this one blows. I am extremely impressed with the 1993 Oceanpro 150. It is a very durable motor, and was extremely simple to tear down, clean, rebuild, reassemble and tune up. For being neglected and mistreated, the overall condition of the components was very good, with most of the ignition system running well before replacing and the fuel pump and VRO all working perfectly despite being disconnected and plugged at some point.
I also am very impressed with the knowledge and insight found here on iboats and youtube. Both were my frequent go to's on how to do something, or what to look for. I learned a ton about 2 stroke outboards and lower units and it was a blast the whole time, and a great feeling when it ran the first time, and an even better feeling when it hit optimum rpm range and top speed.
That was my experience and figured some would enjoy reading about a garage repaired outboard, and im sure some will have a conniption and share their opinions, so enjoy the story and try to be gentle with the responses.
These motors were off a fishing boat on the west coast that were sold at some point after a repower. They were acquired and mistreated by an owner in new jersey, and stored un covered outside in his back yard for an undetermined amount of time. One motor was completely stripped of parts and stored in a bucket. The other was mostly complete with some broken plastic parts. There were three lower units included and two SST props. one unit was counter rotating and the other two standard. One of the lowers was seized onto the stripped motor. The owner claimed the standard lower was blown, and the counter was fine but leaked oil.
I spent several weeks dismantling both motors and all lover units, cleaning parts, taking inventory and figuring out what I had and what I didn't. I found out that the seized lower unit was the wrong size for the motor and came off a V4 motor, and was probably forced into the crankshaft and resulted in getting stuck. That lower was sacrificed and cut up to remove. The other two lowers appeared to be matching lowers with the difference being one was standard and the other counter rotating.
I tore down both lowers, emptied the emulsified oil, cleaned and repacked all the roller bearings with marine grease, cleaned all of the casings of sludge, replaced the seals and gaskets, and filled with new gear oil. The gears and clutch dogs were perfect with no chipping. The cases did not leak and pressure and vacuum tested fine.
My plan was to do this as cheap as possible for the sake of not spending any more then I had to, and I didn't think it would be successful so why waste more money. both blocks were compression tested and both has a failed #1 piston and the cylinder wall heavily scored. Numbers were typically low 70s/ upper 60s psi with #1 being upper 30s / low 40s psi. I meticulously refinished the cylinder bores with a stone hone. 5 were just a deglazing, and #1 was hours of honing to remove the scoring. Again I am doing this on the cheap so I was not concerned with measuring or over boring etc. I successfully removed the scoring and all 6 cylinders had cross hatching and were cleaned of residue and metal particles. I cleaned all parts and reassembled the motor. I cleaned the carbon build up off the pistons and picked the best six from both motors and reassembled. I noticed when reassembling that some of the pistons had more slop in the bore than others. I decided to swap piston rings from other not used cylinders and this seemed to remedy the slop. I lubricated it with WD40 and cranked it to do a compression test.
Success! all six cylinders showed 90 psi with the butterflys closed (I know compression test is supposed to be at WOT with butterflies open but I didn't do that/know that then). However having done the compression test the same way before and after, the 60-70 psi cylinders came up to 90, and the 30-40 cylinder came up to 90, so I am very impressed. I proceeded with reassembly of the power head, and ignition system. I also rebuilt the carbs at this point and changed o rings and gaskets on the throttle body and pickup tubes because I had severe fuel leakage at these locations.
Once re-assembled I tried to turn it over and no go, it would just crank for days. I switched optical sensors and first turn of the key the motor roared to life. I then addressed all of the ignition parts. I replaced the optical sensor, coils, spark plugs, wires, and rewired a lot of the wiring harness that had broken wires and bad grounds. I cleaned all of the cowling and motor covers, repainted and replaced the stickers on the cowling. I cleaned out the power trim and flushed the hydraulics and filled with new fluids.
This motor was installed on my 1990 Seaswirl 210 WA in April and after its first test run I was not impressed with its performance. Very delayed throttle response, only achieved 3800 rpm WOT, etc. After unsuccessfully trying to time the motor with the Joe Reeves method, I caved and purchased the CDI Ignition analyzer, timed it and water trialed it. This time, much better out come. It hit 4000 rpm WOT and 29 mph. idle was smooth and so was WOT, however mid range 1500 thru 3500 was very rough and shook the whole boat. Also the rebuilt lower unit is the smoothest shifting lower I have ever experienced, and makes no indication of banging or grinding when shifting between neutral and forward or reverse.
I figured something still wasn't right though, so I explored different prop options. The first run was with a 4 blade 14x19 hustler that I had from my previous motor. I then trialed a 14x17 hustler that I also had and it hit 4800rpm and 34mph, a lot better (and technically in the rpm range) This prop seemed ideal, however the motor began to cut out intermittently at WOT (either fuel supply or ignition timing issue). It would run fine, then go completely silent, then roar back to WOT almost instantly and would happen sporadically. I then ordered and tested a 4 blade 15x15 hustler and hit 5300 rpm and 37mph (with full tank of gas, enclosure up, two adults onboard plus tools). This prop did not experience any of the above mentioned surging, so I assume it was a WOT timing issue? Either way it went away so im not worried about it. I do plan to trial the SST 14x19 3 blade that came with the motor in the near future, and possibly a 3 blade 14.75x17 just for comparison with the 4 blade 15x15. It seems like the RPM at WOT between the 3 blade 17p and 4 blade 15p should be equivalent, and the real comparison im looking for is hole shot and top end speed. More than likely I will stick with the 4 blade though.
The motor was running great at idle and WOT, but was still very rough between 1500 and 3000 RPM. After running the outboard with the 15x15 prop and cruising for a while in each rpm range that was rough, the shaking has almost nearly settled out, and I am confident that after more break in at all rpms it will get even better.
I know from reading tons of rebuild posts that this is all probably making some of you cringe and think I am a complete idiot for not having the block professionally bored and new pistons and rings installed, but I spent under 1000 on this motor and if it works for one season only, it was worth it, and if it lasts longer, than it was extremely worth it. Also I plan to rebuild the second power head I have with new pistons, rings, and crankshaft (since the one I have has a drive shaft sezed in its end) as a spare powerhead in case this one blows. I am extremely impressed with the 1993 Oceanpro 150. It is a very durable motor, and was extremely simple to tear down, clean, rebuild, reassemble and tune up. For being neglected and mistreated, the overall condition of the components was very good, with most of the ignition system running well before replacing and the fuel pump and VRO all working perfectly despite being disconnected and plugged at some point.
I also am very impressed with the knowledge and insight found here on iboats and youtube. Both were my frequent go to's on how to do something, or what to look for. I learned a ton about 2 stroke outboards and lower units and it was a blast the whole time, and a great feeling when it ran the first time, and an even better feeling when it hit optimum rpm range and top speed.
That was my experience and figured some would enjoy reading about a garage repaired outboard, and im sure some will have a conniption and share their opinions, so enjoy the story and try to be gentle with the responses.
