1995 130 Johnson V4 Shuts down after warming up.

gatorsc

Cadet
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
11
I have searched, researched, studied, fought and cried. Here is where I’m at this this motor. Bought it on a stand in running condition, needed a foot. Good compression, cranks, idles, everything is a go. I replaced foot, learned all about the gear linkage in that process. I rebuilt water pump at this time also. Motor cranks right up no problems. I take off and it dies down after about 10 mins but still idles. I park on a sand bar for several hours no big deal. Leave sand bar about 10 mins of running motor dies and will not restart. It was not priming, found multiple fuel leaks. I give up and get towed in.
I get it home and over a few weeks I replace fuel lines, new primer bulb, add a water seperator, and go through the fuel system. From carbs to tank, lines are checked tightened or replaced.
I go out every few days and crank the motor, let it run a while, just trying to build my confidence back up. Well I take it out this weekend. Cranks right up, idles/runs fine. I ride about 10-15 min 3/4 throttle and it dies down some, but recovers so I go WOT. At this point it’s been running 20 mins. I make a big turn and start back towards landing and it goes from 1/2 throttle to DEAD. Dead like the kill switch was pulled.
I run to primer bubble, it’s tight. I snatch the cowling off to check the temperature of the heads. I was able to put my hands on them, way cooler than I expected. Motor turns over but will not crank. It took a little over an hour to get help, so I kept trying, no luck. This is about 2:30. I get home get settle and go out and try it. Motor is a little sluggish, but fires up and runs like a champ.
Ive read and talked to a few mechanics that have suggested stator and or power pack. I checked stator 405 ohm yellow brown, 96 ohm orange. I have not pulled fly wheel. I’m trying to justify what my problem is, not just change parts. Any suggestions on what I may have missed or need to dig into?
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
946
first of all a resistance test tells you only part of the story. you need a cranking (and running) voltage test to see if its putting out the proper power. the charge coil in the stator needs to be feeding the power pack 250v or higher when cranking. 1.5v or higher for the timer base. 190v cranking for the power pack when connected to coils. you need a factory manual and DVA adapter for this.
but the symptoms you describe to me sound like bad gas or water in the fuel. did you run it on a portable tank with fresh fuel?
a warm stator can cause this issue, but until we know voltage values i'm going with water in the gas. pour out the filter and check to see if water is on the bottom.
 

gatorsc

Cadet
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
11
first of all a resistance test tells you only part of the story. you need a cranking (and running) voltage test to see if its putting out the proper power. the charge coil in the stator needs to be feeding the power pack 250v or higher when cranking. 1.5v or higher for the timer base. 190v cranking for the power pack when connected to coils. you need a factory manual and DVA adapter for this.
but the symptoms you describe to me sound like bad gas or water in the fuel. did you run it on a portable tank with fresh fuel?
a warm stator can cause this issue, but until we know voltage values i'm going with water in the gas. pour out the filter and check to see if water is on the bottom.
I’ll check the gas. I had a 90 Merc on the boat before this motor that was running off this same set up with out issues, just thought more horse power, why not.
 

gatorsc

Cadet
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
11
Drained water separator into a 8oz jar. 2 oz of gas/oil mixture, 6 oz of water!
 
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