1995 Evinrude E115ELEOC timing issues

[PIO KILDARE]

Background first,
Replaced the water pump in March, then went for a fishing trip 2 weeks later.
No issues, engine ran fine for 6 hours. We were fishing for spoonbills so it was just above idle.
Then after we cleared a snag, the engine would start just fine and die with any attempt at acceleration. End of fishing trip BTW.

Over the last few months I have eliminated any possible cause of this problem.
What I found has surprised me, the left two cylinders are not firing. Engine does idle rough on just the right two cylinders.
Fuel, carbs are great, new kits, plenty of good gas.
Spark, awesome spark, pull the wires and the spark jumps a good 1/4 inch.
Also have replaced the power pack, optical sensor and plugs with the ones recommended by CDI for their modules.
Air, yeah no issues there.
This left only timing.
As mention previously, power pack, optical sensor and plugs are now new, but these replacements did not effect the symptoms at all, no change.

Now the fun part, what I found
Performing the Joe Reeves WOT method, I found the WOT was at 30 degrees BTC.
Per the sticker on top of the engine, it should be 20 degrees BTC.
I thought Hey, I found the problem.
But, ain't there always a but.
The timing adjustment are for the full throttle adjustment is fully at the counterclockwise setting, moving it clockwise increases the WOT above 30 degrees BTC.

At this point I am starting to think I have had an internal failure of some kind.
The timing indicator has a cotter key and it is intact.

Any suggestions?

 

[racerone]

Timing generally does NOT go out of adjustment on outboard motors.---Careful if you decide to adjust things.----Are wires from the powerpack going to the correct coils.----Colors of stripes on these orange wires should be posted.

 

[PIO KILDARE]

Timing generally does NOT go out of adjustment on outboard motors.---Careful if you decide to adjust things.----Are wires from the powerpack going to the correct coils.----Colors of stripes on these orange wires should be posted.

Thank for your input, and I agree, no hasty adjustments.
I have added a picture of the power pack and its connections, all as they should be.

 

[PIO KILDARE]

Well, I always say its good to tell others about the problems you can't solve, cuz it makes you think differently about them, I have been an electronic technician for 40 years and have hit my fair share of walls.

I got the left side firing!!
And yes the WOT timing was way off, about 4-5 degrees.
I read another timing method that made sense to me and tried it.

*******
Warm up the engine until quick start drops out.

Shut off the engine.

Disconnect the timer base linkage.

Start the engine.

Wait 5 seconds for the Quickstart to drop out.

Leave the throttles closed and manually advance the timer base to the stop and check/adj the stop to the spec for your engine.

No need to subtract 4 degrees because the engine is running.

*****

In this case , I disconnected the Quick start connector and grounded that wire, simulating the engine at operating temperature.
Then on the timing advance lever there was a screw holding it to the adjacent lever that controlled the throttles. It can bee seen in the first photo, bottom left with a large washer. Once removed I could freely move the time advance lever to its appropriate position and take a timing reading. First reading was 14 degrees.
5 clicks later it read 20 degrees BTC, exactly as noted on the sticker and with each click the HIGH iming set lever the engine improved in running.
Finally, at 20BTC I pulled the left side plug wires and the engine slowed and ran rougher, WOOT!!

Now I just have to verify the LOW timing set point lever is in its proper place.
Any suggestions on how to test/set the LOW timing point?

 

[flyingscott]

I am not so sure you can use the joe reeves timing method on that ignition. There is an actual timing tool for the optical ignition system.

 

[PIO KILDARE]

I am not so sure you can use the joe reeves timing method on that ignition. There is an actual timing tool for the optical ignition system.

Found what your describing, that tester is only for checking the operation of the infrared emitters and detectors in the actual optical sensor. Not for timing of any sort.
And you are correct, Joe Reeves method does not work with my engine, the other method did work very well though.

BUT, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
The PDF on the tester I found at CDI not only had the operational description of the tester, it also listed the timing specifications for my engine!!

Here is a photo of that PDF

 

[flyingscott]

No the analyzer is used to time the engine!!! I have the exact same motor with the factory manual.

 

[PIO KILDARE]

Don't suppose you could tell me the model number of that analyzer?

 

[flyingscott]

Here is the one I bought for mine it comes with great instructions and is about a 1/4 of the price of the CDI one.

Johnson-Evinrude, Faststrike-Intruder, V4-V6, Easy Timer Ignition Analyzer | eBay

A complete set of instructions and illustrations are included and the 5 pages of instructions, printed from the OMC service manual, every thing you need to know to set the timing and sync the timing and carbs.

www.ebay.com