1995 Force 120hp Replaced all ignition, still no spark

[FD3S20BRX7]

Boat is a 1991-1995 Bayliner Trophy 2002WA, my fiancee's dad gave it to me. The boat ran in 2008 before it set up for the past 8 years with no covers on it :facepalm:. From what I can tell, the Force 120hp isn't the original motor that came with this boat, he bought it used as it is now. The Serial # on the transom is to worn from weather to read. From what I've gathered, it's a 1995 Force 120hp. When I received the boat a few months ago, one of the magnents had come off of the flywheel, I epoxied it back on the flywheel using spacers to get it evenly spaced between the other magnets, clamped it on, and let it cure for 72 hours.

I've replaced:

Ignition Switch, it would barely turn from sitting in the weather.
Batteries
Spark Plugs
Switch box - with CDI P/N 114-5772
Trigger - with CDI P/N 134-7029-4
Stator: with CDI P/N 174-9710K 1
Regulator/Rectifier: with CDI P/N 194-5279

The motor had a newer model red stator on it with an adapter kit installed (P/N 834949A2). The new, correct year model, CDI stator bypasses this adapter kit. I've disconnected and connected the kill circuit before and after each part was installed. I ran ohm and DVA test on the stator and trigger. I didn't mind replacing the entire ignition, considering how old it is and I don't want to get stranded. But, I still have no spark. Is it possible that all four ignition packs have gone bad after sitting for so long? The batteries have 12.7 volts on them, but could the starter not be spinning fast enough to get any spark? How are the RPM's and Ignition Spark related? Any other Ideas on what else it could be?

Pictures of Ignition https://goo.gl/photos/8hb2kMq5B4GaBbGKA

At the wiring harness plug under the engine cowl there's a tan and brown/white wire connected together in one picture and a red wire plugged.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Sounds like it's a new ignition?
​Maybe try unhooking the tach lead.
Under the dash is a fuse panel(maybe) there is a fuse that blows and won't allow the motor to start.

It will run and charge with 1 magnet missing.
You making sure the key on the flywheel is in place(had to ask)

Turning over too slow?
Does it labor when turning over?
Clean the starter..
Load test the battery.
You can have 12.7v and still have a bad battery.
Do a compression test.

All 4 packs going bad? not unless maybe you hooked up the battery wrong.

Sometimes. The Hull ID# can be found on the inside usually where the # is on the outside.

 

[pnwboat]

If you can get clearer pictures of the Switch Box wiring, it would help. Can't see all of the wire colors on the Switch Box.

 

[FD3S20BRX7]

Sorry about the picture quality, it was night time when I posted and I had to use my flashlight (my phone doesn't have a flash). I went camping this weekend and kept forgetting to get back on here after I got back home... I installed all new packs today and it fired right up, just had to set the timing afterwards. Just my luck that all 4 packs were bad. Only thing I can think of is from them sitting in the weather for 8 years or the "red stator conversion kit" allowed the stator to fry them... The rectifier and yellow stator wires were both burnt after the first time I tried to crank it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Burnt wires are usually from bad connections???
​Mercury's plug in connectors are famous for burning and shorting.