1995 Force Outboard 120hp

ddixon1000

Recruit
Joined
Mar 25, 2009
Messages
2
Hey all,
I am a newer boat owner (1 season) and have a 1995 Bayliner with a Force 120hp that has been running great. I decided to try winterization on my own but think I may have done some things wrong. Heres what I did.
1. Flushed the engine on muffs for 5 minutes.
2. Added Merc fuel stabilizer as the Boat rep told me Seafoam and Stabil are now considered horrible for two strokes due to their alcohol content. He said they cause condensation instead of prevent it.
3. Ran the stablilizer through for 5-10 minutes.
3. Disconnected the fuel line (is this wrong) and let run while fogging the carbs(engine smoked) and let the engine die.
4. Unscrewed the screw from the bottom of the carb bowls and let the gas drain.
5. Removed plugs andSprayed fogging oil into holes and turned the motor over a few times.
5. Replaced the lower unit oil no signs of water
6. Took off prop checked for fishing line (none) greased spline.
The two things I think I may have done wrong was disconnecting the fuel line and I noticed the plugs had a black residue on all four. Is this bad? Also the plugs didn't look like regular plugs they had a flat end not the standard spark plug end.
 

moparman

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
314
Re: 1995 Force Outboard 120hp

In my opinion one of the main things to do is to get as much water out of the motor as possible to keep the motor from freezing ,the fuel needs to be treated with sta-bil or similar product ,I leave the treated fuel in my carbs to keep the gaskets from getting dry during the off season ,but that's my way,other people may do it different.Fogging the cylinders is a good idea to keep rust down.Also a good coat of wax on the engine covers wouldn't hurt ,but that's just me.Taking the fuel lines loose does what for the motor while running?When spinning the motor over ,make sure the plugs are grounded ,to keep from spiking the ignition box, the plugs will look that way because these motors are designed to be run wide open and any other range is a compromise, the plugs are a type called surface gap and should not be swapped out with conventional plugs as that will lead to a major meltdown. Every thing you have suggested looks good, except what I've suggested and some of that is my preference. Good luck with your first start up next year as the time spent now will be worth it then. MOPARMAN ROLLTIDE 13-0
 
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