1996 Force 50 HP Water leaking in a few spots below the powerhead and on the shaft

[Havlik82]

Now that the water leak in the powerhead case is corrected a few more have cropped up. Should I be concerned by any of these leaks? I think that lower leak was already there before I did the adapter plate seals, but a few of those upper leaks are new.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyPQ99BuHl8&list=UULGQyx5ESbuQyhsQyYilt1g

 

[MickLovin]

Bit hard to view your vid when it comes up as private

 

[Havlik82]

oops, sorry, I uploaded from my phone and the private setting was defaulted. I just fixed it.

 

[Jiggz]

I don't know about you, but I can never have a good night sleep if something I worked on is obviously not quite up to par. Now more than ever, you have gained more knowledge and experience on how to do this correctly, so you might as well get a 100% satisfaction of doing it correctly. Of course, that is just me.

 

[Havlik82]

Jiggz, do you think that front leak is from the bottom seal I replaced?

 

[Jiggz]

I believe so unless it's coming from the exhaust plate or cover. However, from the video it is really very hard for me to tell. With my 125 I believe I can get access on the adapter plate by simply removing the leg cover. I would at least re-verify proper torque on all bolts first and then try again. If the leak persists, then you might have to re-do the whole thing again and this time maybe use some gasket maker (hi-temp like the silicon copper). Let it dry and treated for 24 hours before testing.

 

[Havlik82]

I'll have to inspect it a little closer, but it sure looks like to me it's coming from the exhaust plate below the adapter plate. I didn't torque those bolts, I just got em in as tight as I could...maybe that's part of my problem. I did finally take the boat out for a spin on the lake. It ran like a top for the first time since I've owned it. Fired right up, idled nice, planed out nice, shifted smooth...I'm a happy camper...I think from here on out it's minor stuff and maintenance.

 

[Nordin]

Lift the powerhead again and besure the surfaces are clean and all old gasketmaterial is gone.
Replace the gaskets (you may be able to reuse the gaskets if you are careful when you lift the head and do not damage them).
Put some RTV gasketfluid material at the surfaces, this hold the gaskets in place and also helps to seal.
Then torque properly to right value. Do not do the proper tighting on each screw at once. Do all screws a bit, and then all to right torquevalue.

 

[Jiggz]

In addition to Nordin's suggestions, always cross torque especially when it involves gasket that requires sealing. At the minimum, when torquing, do a two step process or even three depending on the size and length of the bolt being torque. For example, if torque requirement is 180 in-lb, you should at least do 90 first with all the bolts while following a pattern if required or cross torquing if no pattern is required. And after doing all bolts for 90 in-lb, then start all over again this time doing the full required torque of 180 in-lb and finally start all over again and double check all bolts again and none should turn more than a quarter when torqued to 180 in-lb. Otherwise, you will have to re-check all the bolts again until none turns more than a quarter. If you decide to use a three step process, then you will initially torque to 60 in-lb, followed by 120 and finally 180 in lb.