1996 Force 75 HP Spitting fuel from carb

[Tbird33]

I have read as many posts as I could to get this motor back in top shape. So far I have replaced the regulator, and cleaned/repaired starter. I thought my only issue was with startup/battery but its not. I did a compression test and found around 140 in each cylinder with a crappy gauge. I also tested spark and had spark in each wire. What is the best way to check a spark without getting shocked??!!

Now I cant get the motor to idle properly and it is not hitting top rpms. I changed plugs. I cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel filters and that changed nothing. I replaced the fuel pump last year but I checked it anyways and everything looked good there. Replaced the primer bulb today. Today I was trying to adjust the carb while idling in water and noticed a lot of fuel spitting out of the carb and the idle was sometimes surging. I read today that if a portion of your fuel line goes downwards that can negatively effect flow, is this correct?

I did a link and sync but I am a bit confused. How do you know how long to set the linkage connector from the timing tower to the cam? I understand how to set the cam to the correct setting against the roller, but do you start with the idle stop screw all the way out or in?

Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

DON"T adjust the linkage as they don't usually move.

No shock testing: get a spark checker from any auto store. $6-7

If the carbs spitting back? That could be the reeds are bad and allowing fuel to get pushed out the front.
Remove the carb and look inside and see if the reeds are ok?

The primer system can fail and push extra fuel out also.
Pinch off the feed from the primer to the carb bowl.
The primer has a diaphragm that can go bad and allow more fuel to be pushed into the carb.

Oh yea Welcome!!

 

[Tbird33]

Thank You Jerry!!

Unfortunately I already adjusted the linkage a little bit. I thought Frank said to adjust it in one of his videos. Any help on the proper length would be appreciated.

I am going to run on a portable tank today. I will also check the primer and reeds.

 

[Jiggz]

With the idle stop bolt barely touching the block and control lever in neutral, the cam's scribed line should line up with the roller eccentric screw slot. With this position, the carbs' throttle should be fully closed. If not then adjust the linkage connector from the timing tower to the cam.

After attaining the above, now is time to set the idle. DO NOT TRY TO RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT SETTING THE IDLE FIRST. It will not run because the throttles are fully close. Set the idle stop screw about half way. Note when you do this the cam's scribed line will not align anymore with the eccentric screw's slot (which is normal) and also if you check the throttles they should be slightly open.

Try starting it and as soon as it fires you will need to fine tune the idle stop screw for 1000~1200 RPM idle in neutral. If you are in the water, set the idle in gear rpm to 700~800 rpm.

 

[Tbird33]

Ok I got that set about right.Thanks Jiggs. Its hard to check because Im now having another issue.

The motor turns over a few times and then I lose all power to the ignition switch. Sometimes it will even start but if it cuts out then the switch is dead. My fuel gauge loses power as well. I can jump the terminals on the solenoid and it turns over, and after a few minutes the ignition switch gets power back. Fully Charged Battery, new solenoid, cleaned all connections on ignition and solenoid as well as grounds. I guess Ill start researching this issue now. any ideas?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Look under the dash.
There is a fuse panel there(should be)
See if the fuses control the starting circuit.
I've seen a fuse get hot and loose contact.
Cool off and would work till it got hot.

 

[Jiggz]

There should be a 20 amp fuse inside the engine with red and red/purple wires. Make sure it is not loose. Another thing to check is the harness connector make sure the red/purple wire is also not loose and making full contact.

 

[Tbird33]

Im pretty sure it is the switch, when the problem occurs I checked the red wire from the motor at the switch and it had 12.6 volts. The wiring on this boat is pretty bad and I am going to overhaul it soon. No fuse panel under dash, no connector harness from engine all wires are direct connected.

Back to the previous issue, ignoring the switch problem. The motor starts up fine, but the idle seems very low while in water, out of the water it is much higher. I currently do not have a tach but am ordering one today. The idle stop screw is almost all the way out.

When I go to WOT it takes a long time, maybe 30-45 seconds to get up to top RPM, and the boat is very slow to plane. 16 ft tracker Deep V. I also hear a slight popping sound when I pull back on the throttle, not a loud backfire but smaller pops.

At other times I had to use the enricher to start the motor.

Several times when I went to go WOT the motor would bog and die.

I know these sypmtoms are all over the place but I'm just trying to give you an idea of what im dealing with.

I'm thinking maybe its a fuel line issue. I am going to order a fram G2 today as well to narrow that down. Any other ideas?

 

[Jiggz]

The low rpm in idle in water and high rpm out of the water is a good indication there might be an exhaust leak. To check for this, run the motor in the water without the top cowling. If the idle rpm goes up then it means you have exhaust leak inside the cowling that is suffocating the engine.

However, the fuel spitting from the carbs is also an indication of broken reeds.

For now. Install the clear fuel filter so you can localize the problem if it is fuel delivery problem or carburetion, reed or electrical problem.