1996 four winns 190 volvo 5.0 dies only when in the water in gear.

[Shootnslide]

Motor Dies. I have a 1996 Four Winns 190, with a Volvo 5.0. Runs fine at idle, can rev it up and hold 2000 rpm no problem. But when it is in the water and once I get up above 1500-2000 it will run for about 30 seconds sometimes a minute but then the motor just dies. Sometimes the gauges flicker around. Most of the time it will start no problem. Will be able to be in gear and idle it back to the dock no problem, but once I get going it will die. Pumped out all of the gas, replaced fuel filter. At home with water hooked up can run in gear up to 2000 + rpm and no problem. History of the boat. From a friend. 2 years ago it got swamped out in a storm. Had it at the shop all fuel removed and gone through. Last year had it out and no problem. Winterized it and then I bought it. That is where I am at now.

 

[Shootnslide]

Update, started to clean contacts, did the coil wires, connections to the starter solenoid, contacts on alternator. Added seafoam and took it out. Ran great. Could cruise just fine up to 3500 rpms. Water was smooth and hit the wake of another boat, it then died during the bumps. Started right up and ran great again. I think I am onto something, but any ideas? Going to remove all contacts both positive and negative and clean them. The gauges seem to work better and no flickering. I am seeing some corrosion on some of the contacts. The motor compartment and motor is pretty clean. Did notice there is a tryp fo grease on the coil wire contacts, I assume this is because a marine engine?\ or should I remove it?

 

[Scott Danforth]

carb or EFI?

if the motor was submerged, you may need to replace the wiring (a bit more involved than simply cleaning contacts)

dont forget to clean all the connections at the big circuit breaker, the harness running to the helm, teh ground buss at the helm, etc.

 

[Shootnslide]

Thank you. It is a carb not injected. Have spotted lots of corrosion on the main shutoff. Starting tonight on all connections and try it Friday in the water. Did not realize there is a ground at the helm, will be looking more in depth tonight.
Thank you again for the info.
Vince

 

[Lou C]

Try getting under the dashboard and cleaning the terminals on the ignition switch and the fuses in particular the ignition switch fuse. Also, back on the engine, there is a big cannon plug with 8 or 9 terminals in it, these can loosen up or get corrosion inside, carefully pull this apart (might have to heat the rubber JUST A LITTLE with a hair dryer to get it to come apart). Many mechanics will get rid of that spring clamp and use a hose clamp to hold it together.

 

[Shootnslide]

The motor is a 5.0 FL according the air intake.
Here is an update. I just read your reply about the plug on the engine. I have cleaned all contacts. Everything under the helm was pretty clean, no corrosion. I added seafoam to the tank in a heavy concentrate like I saw on youtube, 2 oz per gallon. Filled the fuel filter half full and did the hot soak on the carb.
Took it out and ran beautifully. Thought I had it, cruised for about 30 minutes every where from 2500 rpm up to 4000 and no sputtering. And then it started again, acting like she was running out of fuel and the gas gauge was flickering from empty to full, she would sputter loose power and then pick up and a few times, died. Got her back at about 2700 rpms no problem. Have her in the barn again. Pulled the spark plugs and putting in new ngk. They were not bad, but thought what the heck. Pulled the cap and the contact due look marginal. Waiting for Monday to go get a new cap and rotor. Is there anything I should do about installing the cap different than a auto? I plan on borrowing a timing light and check the timing, but she starts no problem. Watched a video on checking float levels on the holly 2 barrel carb and plan on doing that also. Going to pull up the foor panel and cehck the connections for the fuel gauge on the tank and pull the fuel tube to see if there is anything wrong with it. I have read that there maybe a screen on the end. Will check to see if it is plugged. Only thing left is to rebuild or soak the carburetor if these things do not fix it. It has a mechanical pump and i do not see any fuel in the clear plastic tube going back to the carb so I assume the fuel pump is still good.
Each time I do something it has gotten better and better, just not a 100% yet. When I started could not even get it on to a plane.

 

[bruceb58]

What are all the other gauges doing when it starts sputtering? If they are moving around like the fuel gauge, I suspect a bad connection somewhere. What happens when you trim the drive? Any sputtering when doing that?

 

[Shootnslide]

Funny you should ask that. In the beginning before cleaning some contacts, they all would sputter or act really strange when the motor died or started to sputter, but now only the gas gauge. It seems to sometimes die or start sputtering when I do adjust trim. I notice that if I adjust the trim with the engine off, the tach read a little over 1000 rpms when the trim is moving. I figure I some wonky connections somewhere, but have not dug in real deep on the trim. I have check the connections on the kill switch, but was wondering about the ignition switch.

 

[Shootnslide]

It has been awhile since I have been on here. Update boat is running awesome. Thank you all for helpful ideas. The following is the full list I did which has solved the problem. Have been on the lake now 3 times pulling the family with the tube and fishing with no worries or problems.

Cleaned a few battery connections, sea foam in the tank with fresh gas, did the hot soak with sea foam in the fuel filter, new spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap, timing set. Found a disconnected wire under the helm (horn). Did all of the work myself, and as I did a few of the tings above it got better, but when I did the spark plugs, rotor, and cap that seem to be the last items that solved everything.