1999 F100 general Q's

AGENT 37

AGENT 37

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
319
I just got a good deal on a 1999 F100 and it's going to get shipped. I currently have a 1994 70 Precision Blend and am curious about the control setup for the F100. Is the throttle on the F100s a pull to open setup like my 70? I just put new cables on my boat and would like to keep my 703 console and tach if I can. Are there any hang-ups that I should expect?

My boat is a old 18 ft custom welded aluminum V-hull skiff and I'd say that the total weight is less than 2000 lbs. Does anyone have a suggestion for a prop to throw on this motor and a good source to get one?

The F100 supposedly has a 25 inch shaft on on it and I have a 20.5 inch transom and a 20 inch shaft motor now I'm planning to weld in about an extra four inches to my motor well to get a good fit. I know that the extra length shouldn't affect performance too much but I won't get good ground clearance when it's sitting on the trailer and it would be nice to have my splash well a little bit drier with the extra weight of the four stroke.

The guy says that it runs but had some horrible fuel sucked through it and should have the carbs and fuel system cleaned out. Should that be any harder than my 2 stroke?

Thanks for any feed back. I'm excited to get a project and a bit better power and fuel economy. I might have a pristine 70 horse up for sale in the near future.....
 
AGENT 37

AGENT 37

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
319
Re: 1999 F100 general Q's

Thanks, I found out that the 703 will work but I'm going to have to get a fifty dollar cam to convert it from the pull to open style throttle to the newer push to open throttle and I may also have to get a harness adapter.
I'm going to take a shot a cleaning and rebuilding the carbs on my own and then taking it to the shop to have them sync'd. Hopefully the parts will still be good and I won't have to spend the $80 that the rebuild kits supposedly cost for each of the four carbs. I understand that those motors originally had filter sreens on the carb that were really fine and clogged quickly and that they've been replaced with less discriminating screens to allow better fuel passage? I'll change those out at $8 each.
The motor that I bought was on a 26 ft push barge and they replaced it with a 150 merc first and then a 250 merc because they took on a job that put too much extra equipment on the boat for the F100 to handle and apparently the 150 didn't push it well either. The guy that I bought the motor from says that it's always ran really well up until they probably wound up with some bad fuel and it started to occasionally sputter. He said that the fuel filters were clogged with junk. It supposedly still starts right up though.
I imagine that this motor has quite a few hours on it and I might want to get the valves ground down, I was told that Yamaha reccomended that around three-hundred hours. Does that sound about right? Does anyone else have suggestions on other things to take a look at?
I'm thinking about putting a 13 inch-19 pitch prop on it. Any better recommendations?
I ordered a SELOC manual for the 2.5-250 hp 4 strokes from 1995-2004. I've used Clymer before, any downsides to the SELOC? Any Pubs that I shouldn't go without to help me work on this motor?
 
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