1st Boat + Rotted Floorboard = 1st Repair

[Chonk]

I just purchased a 1989 Sea Ray 160R. My first boat, and although the boat is in pretty good shape all around, there was a spongy board that covered up the gas tank. Tonight was the first chance I've had to pull it up and look around.

It looks like the rot has been contained to just that board and the support pieces that it rested on.

My questions are:

? In the seam between the tank and the sidewall and under the brackets that hold the tank down, it was sealed with a piece of duct tape all around (see picture 1&2). I've cleaned up the tank and walls, but wonder if new duct tape will stick or if there is a better way to do this?

? I have to replace the supports which seem to be 1x1's and then replace the board itself. Do I have to use special wood for the 1x1's? Do I have to glass them? It doesn't appear that these ever where.

? What about the main board that covers the opening. It appears to have been glassed from the beginning. (see picture 3)

? And what is the purpose of the other small board with the hole cut in it thats attached to the underside of the main board for? (picture 3)

Thanks in advance. This seems like it should be a fairly easy thing to do myself. Am I right or wrong?

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: 1st Boat + Rotted Floorboard = 1st Repair

Congrats on the first boat, and welcome to iboats.

First, I'm thinkin that the duct tape might be there to keep those brackets from rubbing a hole in the gas tank. I used little pieces of rubber between the tank and floor supports on mine for that very reason. You don't want any metal on metal rubbing together.

For your supports above the tank, I would just coat some pressure treated wood really well with resin, but make sure the pt wood is good and dry first. Moist pt wood may cause adhesion probs and not allow the resin to penetrate well. You can sure glass them if you want to, it would be better, but I elected not to glass mine, but that's me.

I would definately glass the board over the tank. It'll just last a lot longer and it will stand up to the traffic much better. As for the piece of wood on the bottom of the main board, I believe that is there to stiffen up the main board, and looks like it was actually a piece of the original deck. You can see the old hole used to access the fuel tank in that bottom board. I would say you won't need that extra stiffness if you use 3/4 ply for the main board, but you might double up on the new one if you plan on using thinner ply.

Anywho, hope that answers yor questions. Sea Rays are definately good boats, so just take care of her and she'll last a long time. Good luck.

 

[Chonk]

Re: 1st Boat + Rotted Floorboard = 1st Repair

Congrats on the first boat, and welcome to iboats.

First, I'm thinkin that the duct tape might be there to keep those brackets from rubbing a hole in the gas tank. I used little pieces of rubber between the tank and floor supports on mine for that very reason. You don't want any metal on metal rubbing together.

There was (is) a rubber pad that went under the brackets. The duct tape was actually folded into a "L" shape and applied as if to seal that space. I'll probably just do it the same way unless soomeone thinks theres a better way.

As for the piece of wood on the bottom of the main board, I believe that is there to stiffen up the main board, and looks like it was actually a piece of the original deck. You can see the old hole used to access the fuel tank in that bottom board.

So this board has been replaced before then?

One more quick question. Where does one go to get fiberglass and resin? Hardware store?

 

[BigBoatinOkie]

Re: 1st Boat + Rotted Floorboard = 1st Repair

I would say that the board was added at some point so they would have easy access to the fuel tank, or because the deck was weak there or something. Most boats don't of this type don't have tank hatches, just a 6-8inch hole over the gas tank hoses and fuel sender with a screw in or snap in deck plate like this.

For the glass, just cheap fiberglass mat from a hardware store or walmart will work. I didn't have any luck finding resin in stores around here. You don't want to use the bondo type resin, that's for patching holes and stuff on cars. You need the thinner, more liquid resin that will wet out the glass easily and penetrate into the wood. I prefer epoxy resin over polyester resin. It's more expensive but it's way tougher than poly and you don't have to use a respirator to use it. You won't need much, so it won't be too expensive. I bought mine online from u.s. composites. You can get the glass there too if you'd rather.