2000 150hp Ficht Problem

[Dep2234]

I have a 2000 150hp Ficht Ram E150FPXSSM.
After being in storage with zero problems for 6 years, cleaned her up and started right away. Took on the water, only getting 2700 rpms.
Came home, checked spark, good. Checked compression. Good. Hooked up to diagnostic software, no codes. Static tests all work (ignition, injectors, oil pump, fuel pump). Did a drop cylinder test along along with a dynamic injector test and came to the conclusion that the port side (cylinders 2, 4 and 6) are not firing. Also noticed fuel coming out of the port throttle body pretty significantly when priming.
Someone told me to remove the vapor separator hose on the port throttle body and see if fuel comes out. It did. They said that should only be vapor. This isn't the case.
Also, I know these have a shift assist cable that disengages one side to aid in smooth shifting. Hoping that was the issue, I disconnected the cable but nothing changed in my dynamic tests. Basically, she isn't getting fuel on port.

Background - EMM replaced 2013, all maintenance done on a regular basis.

Any idea what I may be dealing with? VST fuel pump/separator replace? If so, can these be rebuilt?

Thanks.

David
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[Dep2234]

Guess I have y'all stumped.

 

[GA_Boater]

Guess I have y'all stumped.

Some if us are trying to stay above ground. And we work for free and have other priorities than giving you an answer during your 5 hour time limit.

Have patience.

 

[Dep2234]

That wasn't impatience. It was an observation. I am trying to stay above ground as well. But thank you for popping in, even with a comment.

 

[Crosbyman]

you seem to have spark issues and fuel issues

here is a post FICHT now ETEC video showing innards and maintenance of the VST

it may help you remove the vst as the suspect then you need to figure out the ignition issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qc7FrlcGVwg&t=677s

VST nipples are VERY brittle proceed with caution $$$$$ see if yours has a VST filter (Conical mesh filter) check and replace if need be ($10)

 

[Dep2234]

Thank you sir. That will be my first act in the morning. I really appreciate your response!!

 

[Dep2234]

Lol...I can't find where the dang thing is connected to pull it off! To YouTube I go!

 

[GA_Boater]

Better than Youtube, you should think about getting a manual if you don't have one. Some Youtubers do not give the best information or the techniques.

 

[Dep2234]

Yes sir. I do have a manual and figured it out. The float needle is rusted solid in the cylinder. There's my issue lol

 

[Dep2234]

Hot dog!! Removed the vst to see the needle was corroded into the small cylinder and was inoperable. Got the needle out, cleaned it up with some fine grit sandpaper without messing with the rubber tip. Used a small gun bore cleaning tool to clean the inside of the cylinder that the needle goes into. Then I used a small wooden kabob skewer to make sure the hole was nice and cleaned out. Cleaned everything up with some brake cleaner, reinstalled, and now I have nothing but vapor coming out of my hose! I'm charging my computer so I can do a drop cylinder test using the fuel injectors, however I did notice while I was running it at the port side head was getting warm when it wasn't doing that before. Kinda proud of myself for cleaning this without breaking anything!
I'll update everyone once I do my drop cylinder test, and then I'll drive to the dock, put it in and see what happens. I will update you guys, but I wanted to say thank you Crosbyman for answering my post!

 

[Crosbyman]

I presume you are referring to the top needle valve in the VST as shown in the video ...well if it helped I am pleased pinkeace:


I am surprised it was crudded up so much because it should not have been. Maybe some water worked it's way in the fuel supply.... or the water coil inside the VST leaked... check it out with air pressure and soapy water for bubbles

just curious... is there a small VST filter on your model ??? on my 2005 ETEC 75hp manuals don't even show a VST filter so I had to convince my local shop to look closer because the BRP manual lacked that info !!

good luck with the other issue (s)

 

[Dep2234]

Yes sir, referring to that. Everything on that went as planned and the cylinders fired back up.
pit in the water and had another issue though...got up in plane nicely, then I had a wake from another boat so I slowed a bit. Once I got off the throttle, she died. Got her started a few more times and she sounded like she was starving for gas. The bulb would not get hard either.
Might be something really stupid, like out of gas since I have been working in it quite a bit in the driveway. Will put 10 gallons in it and try again I guess. Going to check compression again, and check the diagnostics now.
Thanks again for your help though! I'll probably be back lol

 

[Dep2234]

And yes, small filter in the nipple of one of the gas lines. Was fairly clean though

 

[Dep2234]

Yeah, it was gas. I'm stupid.

 

[Dep2234]

Just a quick update...
Everything is perfect. Finally got in the water yesterday for a test, and ran like a bat outta hell for 30-45 min. Issue was definitely the vst.
Thanks all for your help! Now my next question is how do I do a prop seal kit? Lol.

 

[Crosbyman]

great news :canada:...we need great news these days eep::spider:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PnpoEDPqMA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTT7QQsXTmA

 

[Dep2234]

Thanks for the links! I'm a bit nervous on this repair lol

 

[Crosbyman]

Q .....are you getting water infiltration ? drain the oil let settle few days look for water

Q...... can you do a pressure test (drain the oil… pressurize to 12-15 psi look for pressure loss

see video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnhZFn5gkG4

one older engines one philosophy is to just change the oil at intervals if the leak is not to bad (if you are just using 90 type oil ... it is pretty cheap

check the prop seal for monofilament

 

[Dep2234]

Q .....are you getting water infiltration ? drain the oil let settle few days look for water

A .....as far as I can see, no water. I actually drained it last night, and the 90 I put in there 2 weeks ago is still blue/green

Q...... can you do a pressure test (drain the oil… pressurize to 12-15 psi look for pressure loss

A......I want to, however I have to derive some sort of fitting to do so.

I'll pull the prop off and look for fishing line. Need to buy more cotter pins lol

I did more reading in the subject...the oil I saw was black. Most posts say that this is unburnt oil and fuel, and much more apparent when a cylinder is down. Well, when I took it out at first, 3 cylinders were down. So I may chalk this up to a normal occurrence when running minus cylinders. I'll keep my eye on it and take short trips for the next few weeks!

 

[Crosbyman]

Don't confused black goo….and gearcase oil which is confined in the gearcase if water gets in it usually turn creamy color or heavily emulsified. yours sounds like it is fine so don't fix what ain't broken ….

no need to pressure test if you have no leaks

Black goo drips ….just unburn oil/fuel exhausted down the lower housing and shipped out to sea