2001 3.0 Question

[RR24]

I just bought a 2001 Bayliner 1950CL with the 3.0 and 40 hours on it (has been used since 2003) only problem block was froze and busted. ( this is second boat, first one was outboard)

So here are a few question and i am sure i will have more.

1. Since the motor has a water pump on it, is there one in the out drive also?

2. Are there any performance upgrades a person can do to maybe increase power say maybe 10%, since i will be building a new engine anyways

3. What will be other problems to look for when the engine is out like out drive and such.


Thanks for any help
Wes

 

[dubs283]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

1. see here: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=342393

and here: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=329915

2. not gonna get much out of a 3.0 for horsepower, many have tried with some success but in the long run you are better off buying a boat with a bigger engine, much cheaper and easier

3. look at EVERYTHING, wiring, hoses, corrosion of any kind anywhere, broken/missing parts, pull the drive and inspect all bellows, u-joints, gimabl bearing, gear lube, pressure test outdrive, check shift cable operation, etc...

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

I just bought a 2001 Bayliner 1950CL with the 3.0 and 40 hours on it (has been used since 2003) only problem block was froze and busted.

If the engine is not getting water into the oil, you could patch the crack with JBweld. The water jacket of marine engines (raw water cooled) are not pressurized like an automotive engine, so patching them is an option. While this is not the best solution, it might work fine and have the cracked engine running for years to come. I do understand wanting to replace the block, and it's best to do so.

There are not any performance upgrades for the 3.0 unless you want to do minor things like port matching the head and intake, balancing the rotating assembly. The 3.0L is a stroked 2.5L so they have all ready maximized the engine's potential. You might get a small improvement with a different cam (talk to a cam company) though you can't go aggressive due to exhaust reversion. If you pull the intake it should be the small intake runner manifold, those are on the better performing 3.0L engines. Also, being a 2001, I bet you have the higher compression engine, something like 9.3:1 compared to 8.5:1 on the older 3.0/140HP engines. I would build it back to stock specs and not worry about trying to eeek out another 5-10HP that you won't notice. If you do get more power, it's most likely going to be in the upper RPM's, and that's not where it's needed.

 

[RR24]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

Thanks for the answers, so I have another question, what automotive engine is this from, what vehicle did it come in if any.

Thanks Wes

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

what automotive engine is this from

None, it's a marine and industrial engine, never used in cars or trucks.

 

[RR24]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

So does anyone know where to find just a bare block, the reason i want to do this, is that instead of buying a short or long block is my dad owns a automotive machine shop so i can get the machine work done for cheap.

Thanks Wes

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

The only place I've seen 3.0L blocks is Ebay, and that's risky. Be aware there are different GM 4 cyl marine blocks 2.5L and 3.0L, 1 and 2 piece rear main seal, so 4 types I know of. Most machine shops have a room full of castings; blocks, cranks, heads,,, so that's where I would try.

Now lets say you get another block, is it going to work with everything from your old block? Will the cylinders be good enough to use the stock pistons or will you have to bore it and put in new pistons, new bearings, new this, new that? At that point I would do a complete rebuild of the engine.... That's why I mentioned JBwelding the crack, it can work well if you prep the area well and do a good job of applying it. Though, I bet your dad (machine shop owner) would have a cow,,, gluing an engine together :facepalm:

 

[Bondo]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

So does anyone know where to find just a bare block, the reason i want to do this, is that instead of buying a short or long block is my dad owns a automotive machine shop so i can get the machine work done for cheap.

Thanks Wes

Ayuh,... Then Dad oughta have a pretty good handle on the local availability of 3.0l blocks...

Try craigslist, or whatever other swapsheets ya can find locally, 'n look for complete motors...
They're more plentiful, 'n ya can sell the parts ya don't need...

 

[RR24]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

That's why I mentioned JBwelding the crack, it can work well if you prep the area well and do a good job of applying it. Though, I bet your dad (machine shop owner) would have a cow,,, gluing an engine together :facepalm:

I was going to try that, but i drained about a pint of oil and it is like chocolate milk, so i am assuming that it has a internal crack also.

As far a blocks in this area for the 3.0 I dont think i will find any, most lakes are 3 to 4 hours away. ( Might have my dad check with his core suppiers i guess)

Thanks Wes

 

[RR24]

Re: 2001 3.0 Question

Ok folks pulled this engine and took it apart, on the block all i could find was the external crack, so where is the most likely place for the water to get it in the oil? When i pulled the manifold off all the intake runners where rusty, so i am guessing that means the manifold has a inernal crack. any help for problem area's to look for would be great,.

Thanks Wes