2002 3.0 Electronic Timing Help Needed

[Merc3.0SEARAY]

Hello,
I'm in need of guidance on timing an electronic ignition 3.0.
I purchased a 3.O Searay Bowrider at an auction. Quickly discovered poor compression in cylinders. 2 &;3. I replaced Complete head (cracked at exhaust bolt hole end of block 4 cyl), intake exhaust manifold, carb, plugs, wires. Cap, Rotor, Ignition Module. Big smile when got boat back but still no power to plane but advanced while running on lake with a friend and got it screaming. I was unaware of base timing and got nowhere. After some poor education google and forums and since I could not find an original manual though did purchase Solec manual not much help. I have an unusual occurrence taking place. When I begin base timing with module shunted and bypass shift interrupter as I advance the distributor the timing mark moves towards retard. I exploded my brain and thought maybe I am so far advanced I could retard with digital and move distributor a little at a time as I did this. I got back to 9 degrees and 750 -800 rpm was feeling pretty proud but when I accelerate in neutral I'm dragging not advancing or advancing to far. I did pull al plugs and have distributor at TDC1 compression (used compression tester to confirm). Having difficulty for sure. Was rich adjusted single mixing needle to 1- 1.25 and trying to get rpms down but now cant get below 900-1000, Seems I'm right there and then woof the timing mark jumps back to like 3-4 o'clock retard. I have been stepping the digital a little at time then moving distributor and digital bring back to zero the digital go again a little advance etc. Crazy that the timing moves retard when I counter clockwise move distributor. As I said I am at tdc compression number1. could pick up coil be heating and causing this?? new definition to throwing money in hole in ocean. Mechanic who wrenched the head and exhaust not good with electronics. Also I cannot unplug shift interrupter with engine running to bypass or stalls. So I assume you bypass shift interrupter, start warm up then shunt distributor module to enter base. Do you un shunt distributor before shutting down engine to lock or set electronic time or after key is off. Seems when I stall I lose all gains I've made and have to start again. My mental timing is now off. ANY MERC STERNDRIVE EXPERIENCE IS WELCOMED.

 

[alldodge]

The timing advances by moving more Before TDC

Wires on shunt and shift interrupter are connected and disconnected with the motor running. Don't know your serial number but timing of the 3.0 can be anywhere from 1* BTDC to 2* ATDC

Serial number break: 0L096999 and below - 1 BTDC
Serial number break: 0L097000 - 0L0340999 - 1 ATDC
Serial number break: 0L341000 and above. - 2 ATDC

 

[Merc3.0SEARAY]

Thank you for responding. Maybe the reason my idle runs high.Why do I see a 8 degree base on the websites ? Any way this will help. I think what I was seeing on the harmonic balance timing mark was that I was so far advance I saw the timing mark moving forward due to being so far advanced I was retarded ( if that makes sense) starting at 9. Also found that the brand new carb float was sticking and when I tried to get rpm's down I would stall. When opened the carb found the float was not even set to drop more than 1/4 inch. I hope this is it. Thank you for the Mercruiser manual. Great Info.
3.0L Models Only

1. Connect timing light (91-99379 or similar) to No. 1 spark plug wire. Connect power supply leads on light to 12 volt battery. Refer to Specifications – “Engine Rotation and Firing Order,” for cylinder numbering and location.

2. Connect a shop tachometer to engine.

NOTE: Before starting engine make sure the timing tab and mark on damper are clean. Chalk or white paint on timing mark on damper may help visibility.

3. Install a jumper wire between the two WHITE leads on the distributor. Use Quicksilver 91-818812A1, or fabricate a jumper wire using a 6 in. (150 mm) section of 16 gauge wire with two male bullet terminal ends connected.

4. Bypass the shift interrupt switch, as follows:

A Disconnect wires at shift interrupt switch.

B Temporarily join the engine harness wires together.

IMPORTANT: Do not fail to reconnect these two wires to the shift interrupt switch when timing procedures are complete.

5. Start engine and run at normal idle speed.

6. Aim timing light at timing tab, located on the timing gear cover and crankshaft torsional damper. Check the timing. Refer to “Specifications”.

7. Adjust timing by loosening distributor clamp and rotating distributor body as required until timing mark on damper or pulley lines up with the mark on tab specified in “Specifications.” Tighten clamp and recheck location of timing mark.

8. Aim timing light at timing tab and recheck location of timing mark. Repeat Step 7 until timing is correct.

9. Stop the engine. Torque distributor hold down bolt to 20 lb. ft. (27 N.m).

10. Reconnect the two wires to the shift interrupt switch.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove jumper wire before returning engine to service, otherwise timing will not advance.
11. Remove jumper wire at distributor white leads.

12. With timing light still connected, start the engine and run at IDLE. Verify that timing did advance to 12o BTDC, plus or minus 2o. At 2400-2800 RPM maximum (total) advance is obtained and should be 27o BTDC (plus or minus 2o).

13. Stop the engine and remove the timing light.

 

[alldodge]

Manual 26 (Your motor) starts in 1998 and up is what I posted above

Thank you for the Mercruiser manual. Great Info.
3.0L Models Only

Don't know who sent you this but what manual is it from?
Neither manual 13 or 26 list 8 degrees for EST distributor

Why do I see a 8 degree base on the websites ?

Which website?

Is the motor a MPI EC?