2003 Bravo 3 - Shifter O-ring to Gimbal housing not there

DIY1111

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Happy Holidays.

I just pulled drive off to see that there was no O-ring to prevent water into the shifter ( both on the drive and the shifter cable/ boot side ).

I'd love to say this was not my fault - but, no one works on this but me and, I've had this package since new - and, although I've never done this before - it appears I did it ( or didn't ) this past season.

What needs to be checked to assure that all is cleaned and lubed properly ?

This season has been the worst in terms of engine issues and my own maintenance mistakes.

Totally being humbled !

Thx.​
 

alldodge

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Your pic didn't make the trip

The transom assembly normally doesn't have lube fittings
 

DIY1111

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No pix.

The shifter O ring/ gasket was not in place between the drive and the gimbal - salt water was able to go where salt water should not go ( not sure if gasket fell out of place during drive install );

- Do I need to pull the cover off of the shifter assembly on the Bravo 3 drive, inspect, clean, and lube ?
- What should I do to the shifter cable/ boot ? Remove boot, cable ?

I don't want salt water to wreak havoc anywhere.

What is the relationship with the shifter area on the drive and the upper gears ? Are they 'connected' or in separated bu the housing ?

Thx
 

Grub54891

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They are separate chambers, but covers with the signal cover. Drain the lube, remove cover and clean out the shift cavity, lube up the pivot points. Recently gad one come in that happens to. Had to replace the levers in there as they were rusted and shot.
 

alldodge

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OK I'm slow but got it. Grub is correct there are different chambers, and drain the lube just to be sure water didn't get in the drive.

Remove the back cover and flush out with fresh water, then some WD40 a few times. Then lube up with quick silver 2-4-C and make it kind of heavy
 

Grub54891

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Looks like I didn't check my spelling, or auto correct thought I was stupid.^^
 

DIY1111

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So relieved to hear the chambers are separate ! I drained the oil from the season and it was clean ( refilled with new ). So, I'm good there. I'll remove the back plate, flush and spray real well.

What size and type of bolt's hold the plate in place ? Large torx ?
Will I need to replace a gasket ?

Lastly, what should I do to the cable side ?

Thx
 

alldodge

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It should be standard 12 point 3/8 socket (maybe 10mm but don't think so, been a while since last removed)
The gasket is an O-ring and so long as its not damaged when removed , just reinstall
 

Grub54891

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Drain it down a bit. You filled it back up, now lube will run down everywhere!
 

DIY1111

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That’s funny! Bought socket earlier - started to pull cover off and... yup... lube started to drop EVERYWHERE. Tightened up and will drain a bit then inspect. Be’atch is that The drive is in stand that covers bottom drain screw...
 

DIY1111

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Emptied oil. Removed back shifter plate. Looked pretty good in there. Cleaned up, lubed, and closed her back up. Good experience as I never knew that area of the drive - now I have a better idea of the design.

Next area regarding this - the shifter cable. I have to assume that saltwater was able to get up the shifter cable. What must I do to properly clean / lube this ? Should I remove the cable ? If so, does it pull from the engine side or the drive side ?

Once this is done, I'm back at par.
 

alldodge

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Hope grease was used in the cavity

The shift cable should be able to remove the center core at the shift plate. Then pull the core out at the bell housing. I would suggest flush with WD40 from shift plate end. Then use some grease (2-4-C) and coat the core and reinstall
 

DIY1111

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Good morning ! Lubed all pivot points with grease. Greased the spring loaded detent - Should I heavily grease where the detent ‘ball’ rides on the shifter cam ?

Not sure what you’re directions are regarding shifter cable. I assume I detach cable assembly at engine. Do I pull cable out from engine side or from outside ? Then, it sounds like the core comes out through the outside ?

any tricks or pitfalls to avoid to assure I can slide the core and cable back in easily ?
 

Grub54891

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You would pull the inner cable out from the outside. Then you can squirt the lube from inside so it cones out the bottom. No need to remove the outer core. If it were mine I would just replace the cable completely, its not that hard then you would be done with any issues that may crop up.
 

alldodge

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Its greased up so go with it. Pull the cap back off next season when changing lube to see if it may need some more

The end is removed on the motor and removed outside. The cable slides in/out easy enough. Loosen the square drive bolts on the end of shift cable, the end will slide off
 

DIY1111

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Removed the shifter cable from engine to the drive - took measurements to assure that the inner cable lined back up when re-assemblying. All went smoothly ( almost no rust from the missing O ring ). Back to par... for now.

Good experience to see how to access the linkage on the drive, how it works and it's relationship to the shifter cable. Not nearly as scary as I thought. Pretty easy actually.

Thank you for the guidance...
 
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