2005 282 Grady White Fiberglass Question

[tank1949]

This may not be the correct forum???? I friend is pondering buying a 2005 Grady. I had heard that they have had a lot of delamination and transom/stringer rot issues. But, it seems to me that the industry went total synthetic around 1995, so there should not be rot issues on a 2005 Grady. He is also concerned with the boat's foamed in gas tank. I warned him that forming in a fuel tank is not a desired method anymore. and that he probably would have to replace it. I also suspect that the Grady is lacking limber holes to remove water around the gas tank. The boat is a salt water boat but stored dry. Owner advertised <70 hrs on (2) 225HP 4 stroke Yamies. I think that is BS! I also believe boat is under powered. Friend wants to blue water fish with it!

 

[dingbat]

I’ve owned two Gradys. Fish two more on a regular basis.

Grady had some issue with water getting in under the trim strip on the transom causing rot back in the 80’s.

Have never heard of stringer/delamination problems.

Are you sure the foam is OEM? Never seen an OEM tank foamed in.

Bilge pumps front and back with ample limber homes

A 282 is a 40+ mph boat with twin F225. How fast do you want to run, or should I say afford to run? Anything above cruise ~ 30 mph will cost you dearly in fuel consumption

 

[tank1949]

I’ve owned two Gradys. Fish two more on a regular basis.

Grady had some issue with water getting in under the trim strip on the transom causing rot back in the 80’s.

Have never heard of stringer/delamination problems.

Are you sure the foam is OEM? Never seen an OEM tank foamed in.

Bilge pumps front and back with ample limber homes

A 282 is a 40+ mph boat with twin F225. How fast do you want to run, or should I say afford to run? Anything above cruise ~ 30 mph will cost you dearly in fuel consumption

Thanks for reply. I don't know what year and if Grady went total synthetic? I've just replaced my Sea Ray's Transom because of an incompetent marine surveyor. My friend doesn't want that experience. Are the 282's fuel tanks easy accessed for inspection/replacement?? Can the transom be easily access inside to test for rot??? I suspect that my friend will load boat down with gear/gas and friends so I suspect he will need at least twin 250s. But, he is also "CHEAP!"

 

[dingbat]

Thanks for reply. I don't know what year and if Grady went total synthetic? I've just replaced my Sea Ray's Transom because of an incompetent marine surveyor. My friend doesn't want that experience. Are the 282's fuel tanks easy accessed for inspection/replacement?? Can the transom be easily access inside to test for rot??? I suspect that my friend will load boat down with gear/gas and friends so I suspect he will need at least twin 250s. But, he is also "CHEAP!"

No composites or “synthetics” in a 282.The hulls of the boats are cored.

No exposed wood. Fully encapsulated inside and out. Test with moisture meter if in doubt.

If you didn’t remove the tank hatch(s) and inspect, why do you think the tank is foamed in?

A good friend runs a 282 with twin 200’s. More than enough for 4 guys and fuel. The F225s should push that rig well.

Being a 2005, I would worry more about engine exhaust corrosion than the hull

 

[tank1949]

No composites or “synthetics” in a 282.The hulls of the boats are cored.

No exposed wood. Fully encapsulated inside and out. Test with moisture meter if in doubt.

If you didn’t remove the tank hatch(s) and inspect, why do you think the tank is foamed in?

A good friend runs a 282 with twin 200’s. More than enough for 4 guys and fuel. The F225s should push that rig well.

Being a 2005, I would worry more about engine exhaust corrosion than the hull

Thanks again. I suspect that the transom is marine plywood. Most fuel tank placement is below a flush deck , which as you know, the deck is constantly being spray with seawater. Pray that there is an access hatch, not just an inspection plate, to remove tank, should there be a fuel leak. Some boats require the deck to be cut out to access the tank. A common procedure for tank placement was/is to fill cavity that the tank(s) sits in with foam, after installation. It is my understanding that this practice fills voids and minimizes movement of tank should its straps loosen. If the fuel tank and inside transom cannot be accessed for inspection, then this boat, in my opinion, is less desirable. Replacing a transom is usually performed from the inside of a boat. If my friend had to cut out the back-aft cap just to access the transom, this would be a major job. He doesn't want to have to spend another 10 grand on boat repairs. THX!!!

 

[dingbat]

Thanks again. I suspect that the transom is marine plywood. Most fuel tank placement is below a flush deck , which as you know, the deck is constantly being spray with seawater. Pray that there is an access hatch, not just an inspection plate, to remove tank, should there be a fuel leak. Some boats require the deck to be cut out to access the tank. A common procedure for tank placement was/is to fill cavity that the tank(s) sits in with foam, after installation. It is my understanding that this practice fills voids and minimizes movement of tank should its straps loosen. If the fuel tank and inside transom cannot be accessed for inspection, then this boat, in my opinion, is less desirable. Replacing a transom is usually performed from the inside of a boat. If my friend had to cut out the back-aft cap just to access the transom, this would be a major job. He doesn't want to have to spend another 10 grand on boat repairs. THX!!!

Grady is a couple of steps up the ladder in both construction and build quality from your SeaRay. Its a well designed, thought out boat with none of the deficiencies/ scenarios you bring up.

Transom Rot: Grady glasses and gel coats the transom inside and out. Transom rot isn’t an issue unless the owner drilled holes thru the skin of the transom and didn’t seal them properly. If in doubt, a moisture meter will tell the story.

FYI smearing 5200 in the hole is not sealing properly.

Fuel Tanks: I have two. Main (92) aft, Reserve (52) fore.
Both tanks have full length and width, screw down hatch covers with quick access inspection ports in each cover.

Tanks are cradled and blocked in place. You can have a tank out and laying on the ground in less than an hour using a screw driver and a razor knife

If there is a weak spot I would say the wiring. They use tinned wire and decent components but the routing and bundling is much to be desired, at least in the model years I’ve owned. I’ve upgrade components and pretty much rewired everything over time

Power: I/O power doesn’t translate to outboard power well. Weight distribution, weight to horsepower ratio and the outboards better trim angles all add up to better performance with less horsepower. I’ve always used 75% when evaluating comparable hulls

 

[tank1949]

Thanks for replying and I will pass onto friend.