2005 Volvo Penta 5.7 OSXI-DF

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
Hi all,

I'm having some issues starting one of the engines I bought for replacement with 111 hours.

Seller had a video of the engine running for approx 10-15 seconds. Which again does not prove anything at all.

I scanned the engine and only had a MAP sensor code which I swapped out.

Engine would start for 10-15 seconds and die out. I have it currently on a pallet and on a stand alone gas tank with non ethanol. Previous filter had some corrosion inside so it was swapped out and flushed out.

I had to swap out the fuel pump set up from the other engine which was seized. The original one was whining/buzzing too loud. It starts and runs for a bit on starting fluid.

Spark plugs were also changed out as they reeked of bad fuel.

If someone can send a firing order diagram that would be appreciated as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, if you are on the pulley side looking at the motor left hand side should be starting closest to you 2, 4, 6, 8, and the right hand side starting closest to you 1, 3, 5, 7? The flat distributor cap is labeled.

Also the orange wire going to the alternator looks like it was from factory not connected and it was wrapped in electrical tape and had a butt connector. Both engines were identical with this same wiring. They were both mated to XDP drives and had neutrasalt.

In regards to this engine I'm also not sure if the throttle body is supposed to activate on its own or if it is supposed to remain closed. Never had it started long enough to check if it is opens/closes after running.

Any ideas or pointers will be helpful. I'm assuming it is the fuel pumps not pushing out enough PSI. All relays and fuses were good as well.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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If someone can send a firing order diagram that would be appreciated as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, if you are on the pulley side looking at the motor left hand side should be starting closest to you 2, 4, 6, 8, and the right hand side starting closest to you 1, 3, 5, 7? The flat distributor cap is labeled.
Correct

Have you checked that the distributor was installed correctly?

Verify, You said one of the motors start but the other does not?
 

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
Correct

Have you checked that the distributor was installed correctly?

Verify, You said one of the motors start but the other does not?
One of the engines is locked up completely. Unsure of what it is. They're both very low hours.

I'll have to check but from what the seller told me is that they just unplugged the coils to the distributor but that's about it. I didn't see any markings indicating that the distributor itself was turned. I'll have to double check.

I found the issue with the other fuel pump assembly I put on. It was the low pressure pump that was not working. I put on the original one and it starts now and has fuel coming out of what I'm assuming is the high pressure fuel valve stem. With the other engines there was no fuel and it was dry.

Now it starts but for a very short period of time. I'll have to check the distributor and check to see if it's out of position. Maybe the distributor cap and rotor are shot.

Any recommendations on fuel gauges? I have one from Oreillys but when I check the pressure it still shows zero even with fuel coming out of it when the needle is pressed in.
 

alldodge

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Being a VP than the fuel pressure should be 50-60 psi

The distributor needs to be clocked correctly
HVS Distributor Timing.jpg
 

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
Were these just used engines pulled from a boat that was being junked?
No, guy is doing an outboard conversion. One drive was in working shape and other XDP had a shattered lower unit from oysters apparently.

Ended up being much cheaper for an outboard conversion than pay for removal/install of inboards, one new inboard engine, and a new XDP/conversion to DSPM
 

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
Being a VP than the fuel pressure should be 50-60 psi

The distributor needs to be clocked correctly
View attachment 408848
I checked it it's in time, I'm thinking it's a weak HPFP. 0 PSI with a gauge on top of the rail. Removed the regulator and it's barely dripping out of there cycling the key on and off. Regulator screen was slightly clogged up, only 10% of it. It's been changed out before.

I checked the HPFP on the other two fuel pump assemblies I have and fuel shot out of them. This one I have on the engine now with the working LPFP is hardly pushing out any fuel on the HPFP side when plugged and key cycled.
 

alldodge

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If LPFP has power and it's running than it's a bad pump or a restriction
 

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
If LPFP has power and it's running than it's a bad pump or a restriction
The LPFP has good power but the high pressure fuel pump isn't pushing out fuel as I would expect it to. The other two pumps I removed from other engines push it out like a fountain, this one I would cycle the key 2/3 before it slightly poured out of it.

I have a new chinese pump coming in to test the engines. I'll keep you updated and let you know if that solves my issue. I appreciate all the help.
 

mckaras

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Messages
118
If LPFP has power and it's running than it's a bad pump or a restriction
Yup, the HPFP was weak on the original fuel pump. It started up and ran without any problems right after I changed out and cycled the key.

Any recommendations for the LPFP or HPFP replacement by any chance? I'm sure there's some solid companies who make quality fuel pumps for these VPs
 

alldodge

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Looking up your fuel pump module HERE
I find typical VP crap, they don't tell you what is in the pump assembly

Next search for vp fuel pumps and find the one which fits
 
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