2006 5.0mpi starting a beeping issues.

[lrdchaos]

3 years ago we had to replace the engine coupler, the shop replaced the coupler and it seemed to run fine for 2 trips. We didn’t use the boat last year due to a new baby, 3rd trip this year we have developed an issue. Normally when you turn the key you hear a beep, now when you turn the key no beep. When there is no beep the engine will crank but not fire. We crank the engine a couple times and it will eventually beep and then fire off. Once it is running it beeps twice every 1 minute. I’ve checked the drive oil reservoir , bravo 1 drive, engine oil and gauges all read good. Where do I even begin? Last trip we ran for 2 days solid and never an issue.

 

[tpenfield]

There are many sensor issues that can lead to the same alarm code. So, without connecting the engine to a computer it is anyone’s guess.

 

[lrdchaos]

If the battery is disconnected does it erase the codes or will it save the code somewhere?

 

[lrdchaos]

So after leaving the marina from my last post. Boat stared great , no 2 beeps until I got it up on plane starts 2 beeps again then starts what feels like a slow surge losing power and dies. Restarts runs for 1 minute or so and dies again. Did the u til I loaded onto the trailer, headed to the shop now. Maybe this pos will catch on fire while towing Home and end my problems. I’ve had this boat for 12 years, I’m To the point I don’t even want to go to the lake. Last 3 years, 6 Trip’s has equaled engine coupler, water Dist housing and now this. Time to rid myself of this headache.

 

[alldodge]

Normally when you turn the key you hear a beep, now when you turn the key no beep.

Your going to need the ECM scanned for codes. The 2 beeps can be many things, but with the slowing and dying, maybe fuel pressure, but do need a scan

 

[lrdchaos]

It’s at the shop now, it wasn’t like a normal fuel shortage. It would surge a little then die like someone turned off the key. Completely dead instantly.

 

[lrdchaos]

Shop called and started asking questions. They started and ran the boat for 30 minutes this morning and said it ran great. He pulled the codes and can see the boat went into guardian mode and shut down the engine, he can see all the parameters and everything was in check. It doesn’t show what would stop the key from beeping when it was turned to the first position or why it would shut down. Can a bad fuel pump cause that?

 

[alldodge]

The boat was beeping every 2 minutes and would not stop. It goes to the shop and no beeps. Only difference is the shop is on a hose and you were in the water.

Don't think its fuel pressure, but need to look at the engine parameters while running and see which ones are close to causing a fault. Either that or you need to get your owner scanner or software

 

[achris]

The use of the computer is an AID to diagnostics. It's not the be-all and end-all of it... It frustrates me no end to hear these sorts of things. "There's no codes on the computer, so everything is ok"... No, it's not!

Case in point. Friend bought his 350MPI/Bravo 3 boat over last Sunday... It shuddered and then stopped and wouldn't re-start about 4 weeks ago. He was considering either the drive or the engine was seized. We cranked the engine, so no seize, but it didn't sound right, like missing compression on one or more cylinders. Got it running, and put the computer on... Everything looked good, no 'parameters out of spec', but it still didn't sound right. Did a 'miss-fire' test. Number 6 not dropping when miss-fired... Pull number 6 plug, cold fouled and shorted out completely. No compression on #6... Owner then admitted to having had a serious overheat just before it all happened... Conclusion - engine overheated (he'd run in shallow water and clogged the water intakes.), head gasket blown and cylinder filled with water. Engine hydrolocked (hence the 'seized' suspicion). While he'd left it waiting for me, the water leaked down past the rings and the engine was now able to fire up........ The point being... The computer didn't show any running issues, but I was still able to use it to find the actual problem, and more importantly, rule out any of the sensors.... But until I had it plugged in, all bets were off.

If all the shop says is "There's no errors on the computer", find another shop! You have problems, and they are real. Find a shop who'll listen to you, and knows how to PROPERLY diagnose an engine. The computer software is a wonderful, wonderful tool. But that is all it is, it's a tool. The person using that tool still has to know how to use it in conjunction with other tools, and proper troubleshooting procedures and techniques.

Chris.......

 

[tpenfield]

+1 ^^^

 

[lrdchaos]

Shop replaced the ignition switch on the boat and the main tech pulled the codes. He said it was showing a low voltage code that was putting it in guardian mode which killed the engine. Load tested the battery, which is a month old, and check the alt. Both charging and load tested perfect. He said normally a bad ignition switch wouldn’t cause a low voltage alarm, but he said with the boat not cycling and firing every time it could be a bad ignition. They also added a couple oz of gear lube, the fluid was right in the middle of the hash marks on the bottle but they said the sensor can be funky.

Picked rhe boat up yesterday and took it to the lake, it ran well. Started perfect, ran great no issues. Oh well, I’ve had a good run with this boat the last 12 years but I’ve lost all confidence at this point. I’m going to take it out again this weekend and if it doesn’t have issues put it up for sale. We have been on the fence about getting a bigger boat, so now seems like a good time.

 

[achris]

Shop replaced the ignition switch on the boat and the main tech pulled the codes. He said it was showing a low voltage code that was putting it in guardian mode which killed the engine.

Bollocks! Guardian mode DOES NOT kill the engine. It definitely and only reduces available power.

Load tested the battery, which is a month old, and check the alt. Both charging and load tested perfect. He said normally a bad ignition switch wouldn’t cause a low voltage alarm, but he said with the boat not cycling and firing every time it could be a bad ignition. They also added a couple oz of gear lube, the fluid was right in the middle of the hash marks on the bottle but they said the sensor can be funky.

Bad lube sensor wouldn't set a low voltage code.

Picked the boat up yesterday and took it to the lake, it ran well. Started perfect, ran great no issues. Oh well, I’ve had a good run with this boat the last 12 years but I’ve lost all confidence at this point. I’m going to take it out again this weekend and if it doesn’t have issues put it up for sale. We have been on the fence about getting a bigger boat, so now seems like a good time.

Ok, 2006, the ignition supply was still through a glass 3AG fuse... Hate those things! Causes exactly the problem you're talking about, and high resistance (caused by corrosion) will set a low voltage code. Find it and replace it with a 20A automotive blade fuse and water-proof holder... One like this...



Have a read of this... https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...ground-or-other-alarm?p=10622651#post10622651

Poster comments here... https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...ground-or-other-alarm?p=10639344#post10639344

Chris.........