2007 4.3L Mercruiser rusted through block

obrienp

Recruit
Joined
May 7, 2015
Messages
5
I have a 2007 4.3L Mercruiser that had water intrusion due to the block rusting through from the cooling chamber to the oil chamber. The motor has never seen salt water, only fresh water lakes and it has less than 200 total hours on it. Each winter, I drain the water out of the motor through 5 drain plugs that drain both slides of the block along with the exhaust manifolds and water pump. Over the course of the winter, I hook up the hose with muffs to the water intake ports and start the motor about every 6 weeks to keep everything moving. Then, after the motor cools, I drain the water again as mentioned above. This February I started it and as usual, it ran great. I let it idle about 30 minutes and when I came back to shut it off, there was a yellow-white foam all over the engine. At that point, the engine was still running good. After inspecting the engine, I realized I had a serious water intrusion problem. Several weeks ago, I pulled the engine and tore it down expecting to find a problem with the intake manifold gasket or head gasket but all those were in good shape. What I did find was that the water chamber around the piston cylinders has severe rust issues and the metal had flaked off to the point that it breached the water chamber and water spilled into the oil chamber. What I'd like to know is if anyone else has experienced this problem? it seems to me that the block should have lasted a whole lot longer than 8 years before it rusted through.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,454
your not making any sense. with the heads off and looking into the engine holes you will see rust even in a fresh water motor.There is no need to run an engine once its been winterized and filled . It sounds like you didn't get all the water out the last time and cracked the block.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Hello and :welcome: to iboats.

That sounds like a horror story, and I'm sorry you have this problem. The 4.3 block is based on the 350 cu in block, and most of those last well past 20 or even 30 years. My previous 4.3 is now 21 years old and shows every sign of lasting another 20... I know some of the earlier 4.3 had thin castings on the heads and it wasn't uncommon for them to rot out in about 10 years, but I have not heard of a block doing it.

Chris........
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,310
What I'd like to know is if anyone else has experienced this problem? it seems to me that the block should have lasted a whole lot longer than 8 years before it rusted through.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... I've never heard of such a thing,..... Got any pictures of the destruction,..??
 

tpenfield

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Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,489
Yea, usually rust through is a salt water issue after about 20 years. Could be a bad casting though. . . As stated pictures would help understand the situation. Also, I would make sure of the diagnosis before too much money is spent
 

Grub54891

Admiral
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Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,312
That does sound a bit abnormal. My 140 is from 1985, still going strong. As stated pics!
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,425
I agree it's unusual...I've run one in salt water, left it on a mooring 6 months each season for close to 15 years, and it's not rusted through yet. Only thing I do different than some is manually drain it and then back fill manually through the hoses with -100 marine AF with corrosion inhibitors.
Once an engine is properly wintetized including fogging there is absolutely no reason at all to start it during the winter--in fact I wait till freezing weather is past even for the spring commissioning.
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
If your engine has a crack in the valley under the intake that's from water freezing in there. If that's the only crack you might be able to repair it by super cleaning the area with acetone, apply some JB Weld and then warm it up with a heat gun. Warm it enough to make the epoxy flow into the injury.
 

obrienp

Recruit
Joined
May 7, 2015
Messages
5
OK, you guys were right (of course). Initial suspicion of rust-through was based on the amount of rust and metal flaking in the water chamber but what ended up happening is the flaking clogged the water drain port so the water never drained out. Ultimately, it ended up freezing and cracking the block. The crack is in the side wall of number 4 cylinder. It's barely noticeable and doesn't leak when the chamber is filled with water but I'm sure once the block heats up, the crack expands and leaks water into the crank case. Bottom line is, I'm looking for a new short block now. Thanks for the advice, it made me keep looking for the crack until I found it.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
That's why you have to probe the drains after the plugs are removed. The drains are at the lowest point of the water jacket where the rust and crud collects.

Good luck in your search for a short block. Hope the swap out goes smoothly.
 
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