2009 350 mag mis at wide open.

Tadl

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I have a 2009 sea ray with a 350 mag, bought it went 47-48 mph 5100 rpm. Started missing, the dealer replaced the distributor. Missing got better but now only goes about 4700-4800 rpm and 43mph with a random miss every once in a while. Help.
 

TunaFish389

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Try tightening up the spark plug gap, i would start at .05 then if still issue .045.

Just seen when they changed distributor you lost rpm and speed? Time to check the timing and firing order.
 

alldodge

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I have a 2009 sea ray with a 350 mag, bought it went 47-48 mph 5100 rpm. Started missing, the dealer replaced the distributor. Missing got better but now only goes about 4700-4800 rpm and 43mph with a random miss every once in a while. Help.

I don't have a 2009 manual, but the Manual 31 list WOT for the 350 Mag to be 4800-5000. If correct, when the motor reached 5100 the missing you were hearing was the PCM Rev limiter trying to reduce rpm.

Did you happen to change props or did the dealer?
 

Tadl

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What I researched said the 2009 was 4800-5200 rpm older models were lower rpm. I talked to a few people 3-4 that have same boat and motor and prop, 5100 and 47 -48 mph Timing has been verified by a few different dealers.
 

alldodge

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Your correct, Went to Mercury marine and the 350 mag ECT is listed as 5200 max

Timing is set by the distributor location and not by adjusting with a timing light.

My guess without testing, is the distributor cap was causing a misfire. The dealer not being able to replicate (don't have time to go WOT in your boat), so they tossed a new distributor in and didn't set timing correctly. It runs good but now has less HP

Could be the original problem could have been fixed with a new cap and rotor. Around here we call them crap caps because they fail without warning and look great.
 

QBhoy

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Couple things to add.

I think of yours is fresh water cooled the max rpm is 5200 (for some reason) and the other is 5000 rpm. Also might be right about a really late version being 5200. Not sure. Anyway. Might have been the limiter first time.
Other thing is that unless you have smart craft or vessel view...I’d gamble that the dash tach isn’t to be trusted at all.

Ad is right about suspecting there diz cap. Caused me a world of issues over the years and shows similar symptoms as you have.

you might have a bravo...but if it’s an alpha. Mine is and had identical issues to yours at wot. It was the shift interrupt switch being nudged occasionally by the throttle linkage mechanism. Took me a while to figure it out. Didn’t look at the time but it was logged in the vessel view all the time and didn’t notice it.
 

Tadl

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They say timing is correct checked and rechecked. Mine is bravo drive. Did the shift interupter switch limit your rpm also? Should I try a new cap. It was changed a year and a half ago. Go factory or aftermarket ? Was that just a linkage adjustment on the switch?
 

alldodge

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Should I try a new cap.

Dealer replaced the distributor and didn't replace the cap, that's a new one for me, they always throw parts like to get more money

As above, the caps are known to cause problems. If its replaced and there is no change keep it on board because they fail without warning.

Something change replacing the dizzy, and only thing the dizzy can change is timing. Maybe they should look at this bulletin, it shows how to clock the dizzy to set it exactly

View attachment HVS clocking Bulletin 2011_11R2.pdf
 

Tadl

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I'll get a cap and send this to them. Anyway for me to verify timing without the computer? I did advance the timing and gained back the rpm. But the miss didn't go away or might have been slightly worse. It is very random. Once or twice in 4-5 miles or five or six times in 4-5 miles WOT.
 

alldodge

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Anyway for me to verify timing without the computer?

If you build the timing tool in the last pages of the bulletin posted you can get it exact
 

alldodge

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Rinda makes the tools, either techmate pro or diacom software
The techmate is hand held and self contained, does not record data for view later
The diacom requires a laptop and can view many things at once and does record data

https://www.rinda.com/marine/marine.htm
 

muc

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You didn’t post your engine serial number so I can only offer general advice.
Ignition timing is NOT something you can adjust without reprogramming the ECM. Because it’s solely controlled by the ECM. Turning the distributor will NOT change the timing.
To check timing you will need a scan tool because that’s the only way you will know what the ECM is setting the timing at.

As someone who uses both of the scan tools alldodge has recommended. I will offer my advice. The Techmate is best for the quick and easy jobs, the screen is easy to view it the sun. But requires that the person using it has full knowledge of how the engine system works (basically a fully trained tech) because you see everything in real time. So you need to know what you’re looking for and also what a normal engine should look like. The Diacom runs on a laptop so it is almost impossible to use while your driving the boat, but it will make recordings. So you can do a test run and then review it once you’re safely back at the dock. Diacom also allows you to see multiple parameters at once, which can be very important. Also allows you to slow down the data so you can see glitches that you wouldn’t be able to see with the Techmate.

Having both is nice, but if you only have one. It should be Diacom.

alldodge posted a link to the service bulletin that describes how to build the tool for setting the distributor on a MerCruiser. It is the best way, and it should be how your service provider did the job. If they didn’t, think about finding a new service provider.
 
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Tadl

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You didn’t post your engine serial number so I can only offer general advice.
Ignition timing is NOT something you can adjust without reprogramming the ECM. Because it’s solely controlled by the ECM. Turning the distributor will NOT change the timing.
To check timing you will need a scan tool because that’s the only way you will know what the ECM is setting the timing at.

As someone who uses both of the scan tools alldodge has recommended. I will offer my advice. The Techmate is best for the quick and easy jobs, the screen is easy to view it the sun. But requires that the person using it has full knowledge of how the engine system works (basically a fully trained tech) because you see everything in real time. So you need to know what you’re looking for and also what a normal engine should look like. The Diacom runs on a laptop so it is almost impossible to use while your driving the boat, but it will make recordings. So you can do a test run and then review it once you’re safely back at the dock. Diacom also allows you to see multiple parameters at once, which can be very important. Also allows you to slow down the data so you can see glitches that you wouldn’t be able to see with the Techmate.

Having both is nice, but if you only have one. It should be Diacom.

alldodge posted a link to the service bulletin that describes how to build the tool for setting the distributor on a MerCruiser. It is the best way, and it should be how your service provider did the job. If they didn’t, think about finding a new service provider.
Serial # 1a331912
 

Tadl

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That's almost two years later, your still having the same issue?


Need to build the timing tool from parts found at a local electronics parts place or online. Post 10 has a link to the PDF
Yes same issue. Thanks ill look back
 
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