2011 5.7 Gi-C-300-P EGC Alarms

[Dave-R]

I finally got the right EGC for the engine. I plugged into the Rinda Diacom, and I have the following codes. SPN-29 FMi-3 ( TCP #2 Senser voltage high) . SPN- 697 FMi 5 (ECT gauge driver voltage low.) SPN-698 FMi 5 (Oil pressure gauge driver voltage low) and SPN 699-FMi-5 (Trim gauge driver voltage low) Any help on these. The engine cranks, but will not start. I hear the fuel pump relays and the pumps start for 10 seconds then shut off.the throttle body air valve also opens for 10 seconds then closes. The only gauge on the dash that is working is the depth finder. It is the only one hard wired from the ignition purple wire. I have a new throttle body installed, and I thought that was where the TCP senser #2 was. Help if you can. Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

So you bought a new EGC module for your engine size vs the 8.1 you were reading? From the codes you're seeing, it looks like the EGC controls the gauges...That's new to me. Maybe Muc would know something more.

You may have to start off with ohms checking the wires between the gauges and the EGC. If you don't know the wire pin numbering system due to lack of wiring info from a service manual, it will take time but if the multimeter has an audible beep it would help let you find and trace the wires easier to ensure there isn't any broken wires along the way.... Also be sure the wires haven't backed out of the connectors at both ends.

Possibly there is a plug between the gauges and EGC.

 

[Dave-R]

You might be on to something Funtimes. I will try to follow the wiring maize from the dash to the engine again. I did try for a start, and got a few pops and a backfire. I was under the impression that the timing was to be set with the Diacom. When I set the distributor timing, I felt good about the #1 piston at TDC. I used a rubber cork and hand cranked the engine till it blew, right before TDC on #1.. I then lined up the crank timing mark. Then I landed the distributor rotor on the #1 wire. This always worked for me before. I wonder if I put the timing light on, and crank the engine should read near 0 right? Thanks Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

Just took a minute to look up your engine model and looking at the engine harness I see there are some plugs that might be not plugged into the engine or dash gauge systems. Also see numbers 8 & 11 for the alarm system. Do you hear your alarms at all? http://www.volvopentastore.com/Engi...n_id.660960903--store_id.366--view_id.1230214

Have a look at all the electrical systems in the following link to see if you recognize anything possibly not connected mainly the engine status panel and the link above covering the engine harnesses. http://www.volvopentastore.com/Elec...n_id.660960903--store_id.366--view_id.1230211

As for timing goes, the timing isn't really considered to be adjustable but the rotor needs to be phased in to the distributor housing and there is a certain way to do it or its not right and could be one of the reasons why it's popping. The timing light doesn't help much anymore as for how close it really is.

I found Don's past info for how Volvo says to install it with good images.. http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=7001823
And incase the PDF link don't work, it came from here, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...tibutor-proper-clocking?p=5218875#post5218875

Not completely sure it will work with the Volvo engine but there may be another way you could try setting (Phasing) it too if you can open the info inside post number 17 provided by AllDodge. Start here on post number 13 and read your way to post 17, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...i-wrong-ecm-on-engine?p=10221916#post10221916

My computer isn't able to open the service bulletins from crowleymarine.com so I haven't been able to read the how to use the 9v trick in a long time now.

Here is your complete engine parts guide if needed. http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...n_id.660960903--store_id.366--view_id.1225150

 

[Dave-R]

Thanks Funtimes: I am completely surprised by the way Don S. shows the correct way to install this particular distributor. I will re-establish TDC for # 1 with my rubber cork, and set the distributor as discribed by Don. Will let you know what I find. Thanks Dave-R

 

[Dave-R]

Funtimes: I used the procedure Don S provided and installed the distributor. She fired up, but I had to shut it off, because there were drain plugs missing from the exhaust thermostat tees. Now to attack the gauge problems. The Rinda sees the oil pressure, and engine coolant and probably all the other sensors. Why the super smart gauges don't, I haven't found out yet. I have a 4 day family reunion and will continue when I get back. Thanks Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

Now that you were able to get the engine started, 4 days of family is going to feel like an entirety.... Just kidding.:tea:

Enjoy your time away, you've earned it working on this one.:yo:

 

[muc]

Gauge driver low generally means a short to ground on that circuit. Maybe a bad sensor or wiring problem.

Edit--- just looked at your last post. If diacom can see oil pressure, temp, ect. You shouldn't still have a current driver fault. Are those faults still active?

 

[Dave-R]

Thanks Funtimes and Muc. I have to admit I was thinking of the boat. I will start the Engine up again with the Diacom hooked up. I know last time I could read both oil pressure and engine coolant temps on the diacom . I did get SPN's on Engine coolant gauge driver fault, oil pressure gauge driver fault, and trim gauge driver fault. I will look under the dash for something loose . I have already got both ground buss's and the wires shiny clean. Maybe I will have to check the ECM plug grounds. Muc do think where this boat was under water, that one on the sensors could be grounded ? I keep thinking something is just not plugged in, but don't know where. Thanks Dave-R

 

[Dave-R]

Funtimes, and Muc: She idles fine, but when given a little throttle it surges and goes into a forced idle . The Rinda shows a SPN 29 TCP #2 sensor fault. (FMI 3 TCP voltage high) I just ran it through a fly by wire test with the Rinda Diacom. Everything worked great, the throttle plate moved right with the throttle just like it should. The TCP #1 sensor moved from about 1 volt to about 4.3 volts. But the TCP #2 stayed at 5 volts the whole time. This difference between the two I think is my problem. They are both located in the throttle position control manifold, and it is new. I got the same alarm with the old one, and now I'm not sure what I have. Could it be I have a short to the + volts on the #2 sensor? Any ideas? On my gauges I still have not figured out why they are not working. I am going to pull the main gauge harness and look for voltage on it with the key on. I do have lights to all of them when the Nav light is on, so I at least have a good ground, and power to the lights. Would the gauges voltage be 5 volts like most of the EGC ? Thanks Dave R

 

[Dave-R]

Solved my gauges problem. The speedometer has two wiring harness plugs. After I snipped enough tie wraps, I found one had pulled off. With the smart gauges, I guess this is the brains to the other gauges. On my EGC alarms, what I've got is a short to the battery + side of 5 volts on the TPC sensor # 2. Now if I can track that down. I would think it would be at the connection ends, and not just in the wiring harness. Will post results. Dave-R

 

[Dave-R]

To inform all who helped me! I had to have open heart surgery in September, and yea I made it great. I ended up replacing the TPS, and the throttle positioner or manifold. The engine did not run very well until I replaced the MAPS. I now have no alarms, and she purrs like a kitty. One small problem though, after only 1.3 hrs the rebuilt engine developed a rod knock. I had to pull the engine, pull everything off again and take it back to the shop where they were great to work with. New crank and bearings and a the whole process repeated. The machine shop people said #7 rod bearing spun, and could not figure out why. They pulled everything down and even hot tanked it again. Thanks again to all who helped me. Dave-R