2013 350 MAG overheating (again)

Mauro Brisola

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Jun 13, 2016
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I had Bravoits in my 350 MAG. It was with 165 hours. It is 185 hours now.

After mechanic doing the Bravoits job I notice system was not perfect. Despite using without big issues. Usually I cruise at about 3500 rpm. Temperature is steady 154 - 158 degrees. If going above 4000 rpm it was possible to see temperature increasing.

This weekend returning from a 30 miles trip (60 round) I played with WOT during some minutes. I knew temperature would increase. After reaching 168 I returned throttle to 3000 rpm to cool down engine. What happend after: temperature did not went down to 158 but instead to 162! At this moment I started thinking about a water blockage caused by the high water flow during WOT. Even because before this moment I could cruise 3000 ou 3500 rpm all day with lower engine temperature (158).

Continuing the last 20 miles, after a long time steady at 162, temperature started increasing slowly. Up to 178 when alarm went off. I turned engine off and wait 40 minutes. Thinking in call marina support for a tow. But after it I started engine and temperature went to normal 158 again and cruised at 3500 rpm the last 5 miles without problem.

My initial theory: there is something loose at some engine/outdrive place causing water blockage in high rpm/speeds. During the Bravoits problem I had a impeller failure (pictures attached). Then I started thinking were the lost impeller fins could be.

Now I found some impeller fins pieces looking by the propellers exaust holes. It is possible to see at leat one small rubber piece stuck in the exhaust passage and others loose before the passages. I will remove the propeller to clean this fins pieces.

My questions:

What the chances of the problem being caused by exhaust blockage at that point? (Just before the propellers)

What the other water engine water passages/hoses points to look for the fins pieces?
 

alldodge

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If the pieces were not all found and flushed out they will still be between the power steering cooler, oil cooler (if there is one) and the thermostat housing. In most cases if a piece makes it past the thermostat its out the exhaust. Now if your risers are corroded up they may also get stuck there.

Suggest removing the hoses from the thermostat back to the pump and flush. Remember to look real good at the cooler, and if anything else feel around if you cannot see. Also remove the thermostat housing and have a look.

Now if the pump housing is scored or the stainless back plate is grooved, then this will keep you from flowing full amount of water
 

Mauro Brisola

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Jun 13, 2016
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Updating case:

Testing with new thermostat, impeller and sea pump wear plate. All oem parts.

Sea pump flow is normal. 5 gallons bucket full in 20 seconds with engine idling (system is raw water/open system cooled)

All hoses checked for debris/clogging. Steering cooler is clean.

Warming up engine at idle or low speed/rpm temp behavior is normal. After reaching thermostat temperature, it stablizes about 158.
Running boat in moderate speeds temperature is under control. But above 3000 rpm there is the tendence of temperature rising. Problem is proportional to speed.



What I found interesting: running in 3500 rpm for 5 minutes, for example, temperature will go to 168 towards alarm zone. If continuing in this speed alarm will go off.

But, JUST IDLING ENGINE FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS temperature will start to drop really quickly to normal readings some seconds after start running again!!!

This temperature behavior makes me think about two problems:

-Air bubble/bubbles blocking cooling system water flow caused by a head problem, for instance

or

-A kink/collapsed hose. Caused by the strong water suction in higher rpms. After idling hose returns to normal. Could be in the sterndrive water pickup hose or the hose just upstream the sea pump.

???
 

alldodge

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Need some info so I can dig a bit deeper.
Engine serial number and does the motor have cats?
Is the cooling system a single, 3 or 7 point drain?
 

Mauro Brisola

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Jun 13, 2016
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Open cooling, no cats.

Serial 2A176762

Engine is exactly this model:

https://postimg.org/image/n398rgmwl/




Could engine circulation pump being suspect too?

I checked thermostat housing temp with infrared gun to confirm boat readings are ok.

The symptom of temperature going down after idling for some seconds and accelerating again is like a suddently opening/end of a water circulation blockage.
 
Last edited:

alldodge

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From your pic I'm seeing the thermostat for the Single point drain. In the link see item 20 (Tee) which is used to drain water out for winterization. The Tee has a bushing installed in the port going down which helps restricts water flow going up. This is done to help keep the engine a manifold full. Now if the bushing is gone, this can cause an issue.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31754/15322/210

Another possibility is the water distribution housing that is seen in the bottom right corner. The top hoses coming off the upper exhaust elbows are Tee'd and then should connect to the housing. Don't see the valve knob on the motor

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31754/15322/280

350_MAG.jpg
 

Mauro Brisola

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Jun 13, 2016
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In this engine model the water distribution housing does not have the upper drain system/knob. The upper vertical tube is closed. There is the thin plastic cover (#6) over the tube but nothing inside but the closed tube. There is the blue drain under the housing. I know it because I've removed all hoses including the distribution housing to check for debris...

I live in Brazil. Then winterization is something we don't know about here! lol

Thank you for the answers. I travel to the coast where my boat is during weekends. 80 miles from home. Next time there I'll continue the overheating chasing saga.
 

alldodge

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Your symptoms remind me of not enough water as rpms increase. This is either the pump, intake restriction, or exit restriction. Turn the helm to starboard and then look at the drive intake hose. Some mechanics use power tools to install the bell housing hose fitting and can cause the hose to be twised
 
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