2018 E-TEC 25 hp Not Running Well

JDusza

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Apr 21, 2009
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Hi. Working on a 2018 E-Tec 25 hp, model E25DPSLAFD, serial 5526976 .
Runs very poorly when throttled up. Shouldn't leave the dock...
I'd like to at least split the problem between fuel delivery and ignition.
I enhanced the timing marks on the flywheel and added my own for cylinder #2, opposite #1. I put a timing light on and at idle, about 800 rpm, I get a good steady 8 BTDC on #1 and a good steady reading on #2 opposite the 8 mark on the flywheel.
When throttled up all the timing marks disappear and I see nothing through the inspection window. Goes way past the factory 12. The running gets incredibly rough and tries to stall. Doesn't always stall, but its not good. So, when running at lets say fast idle of 2000 or 2500 rpm, what should the timing be? Does it go to 30 or 40 BTDC, outside the viewing window?
Id like to mark the flywheel and verify good or bad ignition at throttle up before I go further.
Also, same engine, tilt down does not work. I've verified voltage signal to the motor harness via the helm, so signals and instruction appear to be working. Do the tilt pump motors on E-TEC really just quit.
Losing my confidence in E-TEC...
Thank you,
J
 

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Crosbyman

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first thing is not to loose confidence

tilt down failures are usually bad down switch or down signal to the relay box or bad relay box itself. see wiring diagram in the manual & get yourself the proper diagnostic software and pull out the report

you may be in SAFE mode limiting RPMS due to a sensor detector anomaly which is why EV diag. is so "necessary"

post the fault report on the ETEC board ...see link below for ETEC experts to comment
Folks usually don't mess much with timing because the EMM controls all functions.
The CPS sensor tells the EMM when you fire and the TPS tells the EMM if throttle plates open up properly

anytime you have a problem check the LEDs on the EMM and check the manual for symptoms highlighted by the LEDs but...EV DIAGNOSTIC version 5.9 is your best tools to service ETECs

download your manual or year/suffix closest to it for basic care

no offense to anyone but you can also consult with the ETEC family at this link


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JDusza

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Apr 21, 2009
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You can tell I'm old fashioned and not familiar with E-TECs or using a laptop to identify problems. I use a meter, compression gauge and spark tester and every now and then jumper wires. lol I'll need to do some homework and decide if a marina is my better option.

I'm pretty sure something in the tilt motor subassembly (harness, motor, any controls under the motor covers) is bad because I hear the down relay clicking and I get 12 volts at the motor harness connection for both up and down, according to the helm switch. This leads me to believe the signal is correct and the motor assembly doesn't process it. Can I hot wire the motor in the down mode like I would a starter motor just to check it?

With respect to SAFE mode. Does the rev limiter limit revs at a smooth running position or does it limit revs and let the EMM lose its mind, sending the engine to fits of coughing, bucking and gasping for life? I would hope a rev limiter would not affect the "smoothness" of the combustion process nor let that process go wildly out of control....
Thank you for the help and direction.
J
 

Crosbyman

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tilt motor wise 2 wires feed to motor.. usually blue and green if the motor works one way it should normal work the other way if...polarity gets reversed by the relay assembly.

hearing relay clicks is good, seeing volts is fine but if relays do not pass a high current
load to the the T&T motor because of pitted contacts anything goes. CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS

Easy to check motor wise if you disconnect the relay box output connector and apply ( to the T&T motor) solid B+/ground one way then reverse to Grd/B+ and the motor should reverse.

If all good work backwards to the relay box and test the connector's polarity reversals going up then down. Clean all battery contacts and check crimps and loose connections.

EMM going SAFE to protect the engine usually runs rough and tumbles around 1800-2000 rpms . On the EMM LEDs should all be OFF in running mode ! if nothing is wrong sensor wire . take a close look.

the EMM CAN NOT sense bad fuel, plugged filters in injectors, in the high pressure pump, low fuel pressure to injectors , the IN LINE filter , bad fuel hose, venting issues, bad spark plugs etc.. so fuel restrictions should be eliminate

DO NOT TEST SPARKS in open air on ETECs as high energy RF can mess up the EMM. always use a clip on flasher gun.

Suggest you download the service manual. my 2005 75hp has been great and still his so don't dispair proceed methodically to eliminate suspect components. The search utility on the ETEC site may provide clues on known issues.

A lot of dealers have given up on EVINRUDE support ..if you have a reputable dealer (certified) they do get pricy so try to progressively learn to maintain your engine... a lot cheaper ! !! easy stuff first !
 
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Crosbyman

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see typical wire diag for t&T motor connection and access to connector from relay box
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airshot

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Sure glad I stick with the old fashioned two strokes, I feel sorry for those that try to tackle these newer electronic powered motors...ouch, gives me a headache..
 

Crosbyman

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Some like them young some like them old ...:)

I am running oldies to :) love them all. that 9.5 is 60 years younger !! the Mercs.. probably 50 years
 

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JDusza

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Thank you all for the information.

As for how to hot wire the motor for checkout, are you saying unplug at the motor harness connector, put 12 v on the blue and ground on the green and vice versa?
I guess I don't understand where to pick up ground path.
J

p.s., I have also found the fuel to be eh.....heavy orange, not fresh. Not dirty or water laden, just not clear fresh. Seems to still have a flash point but I'm going to try a portable tank with fresh gas just to see....
1. Fresh gas.
2. Codes on EMM.
3. Hot wire tilt.
Check.
 
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Crosbyman

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very simply unplug the connector take B+ and neg from the battery and apply it to the bue and green wires to the trim motor wires in the connector

it will or should go up or down ... then just reverse the polarity and the motor should reverse direction .

stale gas is terrible for etecs. you may have to drain the whole fuel circuit including flushing the injectors of stale fuel which may or may not have turned to jelly :-(

if you remove any hoses from the vapor separator be very careful not to snap fuel barbs $$$$$$ which cannot be repaired if cracked.
 
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