250 Sea Ray cuddy Deck and Beyond

[roy c]

hello members I took this photo from another post because its same as what I am considering tackling same boat 250 sea ray cuddy. I've never did anything like this before and must admit I'm a bit intimidated. I would like the challenge but was wondering if its possible, I wont ask if its worth it I know the that answer . reason I'm asking because the layout looks intricate with all the levels of material I have 30+ years experience in carpentry O in fiberglass although iv been watching a bunch of video on U tube (Andy at boat works ) your advice will be appreciated thanks Roy

 

[AShipShow]

Welcome Roy,

No need to be intimidated because you came to the right place, the motherload of restoration info and help. If you love the boat and don't mind dropping in some blood, sweat, and tears... and a decent handful of cash, then we will all agree that you should go for it.

That being said, I have my list of things that make it a no-go for me... Mostly if its an OMC drive then I would steer clear unless you want to get involved in a drive/engine swap which is doable, but a lot more money usually.

Whatever you decide is right for you.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Roy, go to the top of the forum, there is a DIY sticky that has lots of links.

start with link 14, go thru it in its entirety (also look up friscoboater on youtube). then look at link 15, then 18, then 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

from there, you will be ready to fire up implements of destruction.

restoring a boat is not like fine carpentry during the tear-down mode. its more like attacking a rotting house with a chain saw, a Fubar, and a hammer

however carpentry skills come in play during the re-construction.

take lots of pictures
take lots of measurements
take more pictures
take more measurements

wear the proper PPE

have fun.

 

[roy c]

thank you any recommendation on type of wood to reconstruct any marine wood better than others for under the deck

 

[Scott Danforth]

go to the stickies........ all your answers are there.

 

[tpenfield]

Been there, done that on my previous and current boat.

+1 on the advice given so far.

My comments to add . . .

Investigate the structure and wood condition as much as you can before you pick up the wrecking saw.

Exterior grade plywood will be fine and is readily available. Some folks go the distance to find marine grade plywood. The only difference is that the wood is better quality, the adhesive bonding the layers is the same.

Build it back the way it was so that you know everything will fit when you put the boat back together.

Cuddy cabin boats are easier to fix. Aft cabin boats are more difficult, since the boat's structure is not immediately below deck, but more under the berths in the cabin.

 

[Chris1956]

Installing a new deck is not a real problem, however, you will have a smooth fiberglass deck that is translucent, when you are done. If you cover it with carpet or some marine vinyl, it will look fine. It will be very hard to make the bare fiberglass look good, and be non-slip, IMO. Colorants for the resin and non-slip additives are available, but they are tricky to use.

A couple tips. Anywhere you replace the stringer or frames, use solid pressure treated dimensional lumber. Sand all fiberglass bonding areas and clean with acetone. Bond all new stringers and frames to the hull with strips of cloth soaked in polyester resin. Us some weight to push them into the cloth and hull, while they harden.

Remove any waterlogged foam. Foam all open areas with new 2 part marine foam.

Brush the underside of the plywood deck with polyester resin, before installation. Lay the deck onto some strips of polyester resin saturated strips of cloth which lay on the stringers and frames. That will help stick it all together.

Use stainless steel screws to fasten the plywood deck to the stringers and frames, while resin is still wet.

Cover the plywood deck(and screws) with at least one layer of heavy fiberglass cloth. Make sure to fill cloth weave with polyester resin.

 

[kcassells]

Not sure about the previous recommendations #7...too broad for a start. BUT like everyone has said above it is more than doable. First points are the demo, getting it out, and going back with better. Like said, ask questions, measure and take a million pics.
Recollection is ok but photos make it easier.
Looks like a deck, sub deck under that. Get to point 1 and then move to point 2. It's like a puzzle to remove and put back.

 

[mickyryan]

Welcome, I will follow along all the good suggestions have come before me so im in lurk mode at this point

 

[roy c]

thanks for the response, Thoughts on exterior plywood incapsulated in penetrating epoxy the consensus is that this wood work? I guess after all that's what I see there existing. also would it be in my best interest to put back foam where ever I remove it

 

[steve_h7]

thanks for the response, Thoughts on exterior plywood incapsulated in penetrating epoxy the consensus is that this wood work? I guess after all that's what I see there existing. also would it be in my best interest to put back foam where ever I remove it

Personally it's what I did. I used ACX and on the side towards the hull I coated with resin and then applied a
layer of CSM. After installed I coated the top side with resin and then applied a layer of 1708 and then
a layer of CSM. I only used 1/2" plywood but with the glass and 2lb. foam filled under it, it feels concrete and I think
it'll last a long time. And yes, I replaced the foam everywhere I found it when rebuilding.

 

[Chris1956]

Roy, Epoxy is not necessary to use, unless it is for some repair that requires great strength, like a hole in the hull. Polyester resin works real well for stringers and decking.

One thing I did not mention in my post. Most fiberglass boats have two major fiberglass components. They have the hull and the cap. Some boats have the finished deck molded into the cap component. That is if the cap is removed, the plywood that forms the structural portion of the deck will be exposed.

On the picture you provided, the repairer looks to have cut the finished decking (as part of the cap) away to expose the underlying structure. Alternatively, he could have removed the cap to expose the underlying structure, preserving the finished decking..

Removing the cap on a 25 footer is probably beyond us amateur repairers, as some caps needs to be supported so they won't break under their own weight.

Just thought you may not have known this.

 

[roy c]

thanks I didn't know that photo was taken from someone else's project. with same boat . I was looking into possibly leaving deck alone and working from underneath the deck working my way up to the bottom of deck with out having to cut any deck
if possible

 

[roy c]

I forgot to mention polyester resin can also be used when laying glass on existing hull material when replacing stringers bulkheads

 

[roy c]

# 14 was a question

 

[Scott Danforth]

the boat was most likely made with poly to begin with (you didnt post a year). no reason to spend more on anything other than poly.

I personally hate epoxy for a variety of reasons

 

[tpenfield]

Keep in mind that polyester resin won’t readily adhere to epoxy. So, you are better off using on type or the other throughout your restoration.

 

[roy c]

I thought so epoxy works with both but not other way around
Its an 1988 sea ray cuddy