270 outdrive repair question

BrandonC83

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Jun 21, 2013
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I'm trying to replace the bellows and the transom seal. Where can I find these parts? The parts are dry rotted and need to be replaced.

Also step by step instructions would be great or general tips. Hoping I can replace everything I need without removing anything from inside the engine compartment? Is this possible?

Also having issue with the hinge pins on the drive - contemplating heating the area to get them driven out, good idea or not?

I can also see what looks like 6 bolts holding the plate where the rubber o ring is for the transom seal - are these the only bolts that holds this in?

Any help, advise is appreciated.
 

Scott Danforth

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

Brandon,

Welcome aboard.

there are stickies on the top of the volvo sub-forum, many written by Don S who was the Guru.

do not heat the area for the pins. simply turn the drive to the side and using a brass drift and a hammer, drive them inward.

post a pic of what you're describing the transom seal. there are two sealing and locating donuts on the PDS housing that seal the PDS to the transom shield. there is a seal and 6 bolts on the inside holding the transom shield to the transom. The seal is hidden from view

if you truely need to replace the transom shield seal, no, the motor has to come out. the rear of the motor is supported by the shield.
 

captmello

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

What motor do you have? You may not need to remove the pivot pins if you are just replacing the sealing rings around the Flywheel housing (PDS housing), the seals you mentioned with the six bolts. Same for replacing the ujoint bellows. I would start by removing the upper gear housing.

Here are the instructions from the adults only sticky:

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/outdrive-side-pin-removal-309095.html

If you can post pics it is always helpful.
 

BrandonC83

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Jun 21, 2013
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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

Thanks for the help I did get the bellows off and see that there is a hole in it - is this something from factory or has it been torn.

Maybe it would help if I told you my problem: I'm getting small amounts of water inside the engine compartment and I assumed it was coming from these seals being dry rotted. When I pulled the top housing and bellows the bearing on the drive shaft and joints were rusted badly rusted where water had been in there.
 

BrandonC83

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Jun 21, 2013
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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

Here are some other photos I took the rusty shaft and bearings, when I pulled this plug water ran out - water is clearly getting inside of this - so I guess my question is - is it supposed to? And can these bearings be replaced easily?

I'm a car mechanic trying to work on a boat so please go easy on me - lol
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y445/Brandon_Crose/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsd772ee9e.jpg

http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y445/Brandon_Crose/Mobile Uploads/image_zps11ef964d.jpg
 

captmello

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

Take some pics of the outdrive and the motor so we know what the heck you're working on. It makes a difference.

I must admit I do not know what that plug you pulled out of the transom shield is for. However, water shouldn't be in there. Water should be in the lake and in your cooling system only.

The bellows is ripped and has let water get into the bearings and ujoints. There should be a grease seal that fits over the splined shaft in your pic. Is it missing or did you pull it? The bearings are not hard to replace but can be a bit labor intensive. but we need to know what motor you have to figure out the rest.

I'm thinking the water you are getting in the boat is coming through the bearings you've exposed if all the grease has been washed out.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

your motor will need to come out. the PDS bearing is missing its seal, and the water that got in thru the rip trashed the bearing, and probably the input shaft seal. some PDS bearings can be replace without pulling the motor, however you mentioned changing the transom shield donuts. with that stated, I would pull the motor to make life easier.

once you get it back together, remember, change the bellows every 2 years.
 
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captmello

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

Ok, thats a SBC 305. Model AQ225E. I suspect your outdrive is a 275 model, not 270. Not much difference.

Like scott said, the motor will have to come out. Since you've got the upper gear box off already, you just need to remove the six bolt on the clamping ring to free the motor and flywheel cover from the transom shield. If the clamping ring is stuck tight, there are threaded holes on the ring you can screw the bolts into to help remove the ring.

Once the clamp ring is removed, pull the motor with the flywheel cover still bolted to the motor. I would complete the teardown before ordering the parts. If you have questions just ask, many of us have done this exact job.
 

BrandonC83

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

I think I'm just going to replace this grease seal and bellows for now and see if that stops the water leakage the bearings do not look to bad once cleaned off.

As for the transom seal I don't know if it even needed replaced if I could get to it easily I would but apparently not.

Someone had asked me earlier if my grease seal was missing and no it wasn't it stayed on the shaft of the u joint when I pulled the housing off.

So what I need is part # for the grease seal, the o rings for the upper housing, and the bellows so I can put this back together.
 
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captmello

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

#66 is the bellows

Upper Gear Unit: Drive 275 : DRIVE 275 - 7743320 - Volvo Penta

#7,#34 are the orings

Intermediate Housing: Drive 275 : DRIVE 275 - 7743320 - Volvo Penta

#69 is the grease seal

Connecting Components Aq Drive 275: A AQ225E : A - 7743320 - Volvo Penta

There is another bearing set on the other end of the shaft as well. If there is play in the drive shaft the bearings are definitely shot, and having been exposed to water I would imagine its just a matter of time. You don't want them to fail and damage the flywheel cover. If you get the boat working and are happy with it, I would consider going back and swapping the bearings in the near future. Good luck to you.:)
 

BrandonC83

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Jun 21, 2013
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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

The parts will be in today can you tell me what type of oil I need to put back in the outdrive and/or if I need to put any grease/oil back behind the grease seal.
 

captmello

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Re: 270 outdrive repair question

30w motor oil in the outdrive. 2.5-2.75 qt.

Behind the bearing you see, there is a large empty cavity that should be full of grease. the bearings are normally greased from inside the boat. there should be a zerk on top of the flywheel housing that allows you to grease the bearings. The catch here is that there is an identical grease seal on the engine side. If you over grease, you run the risk of popping the front grease seal out of the housing. So its tough to say how much grease to put in. I guess if it were me, I would add grease until I began to notice it pushing through the bearing you see from the back, then Id try to pack a bunch in from behind before installing the seal. I would also run the motor a couple times to turn the shaft and distribute the grease during the process.

In this attachment you can see the side view. (you have the two bearing style)
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124018&d=1322930991

just saw your other thread. Nice to see were all in agreement for the outdrive oil;)
 
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