280 removal

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
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Ok lets try this again, I am still trying to get the drive off my boat and I have tried two different ways and neither one is working....

I have tried kncoking the pins out, no luck.
I did finally manage to get the upper unit lifted up and turned, but cannot pull it out, I had to remove the lower unit first though as the coupler would not slide down, no biggie... I cannot get the upper unit to pull out, I have tried putting a wench on it pulling it while I used a slide hammer, 3 days later its still in there.... Tried prying no luck either.

I am also trying a different approach by trying to remove the bell housing and the exhaust cradle from the inside, I have the 6 bolts removed for the bell housing and the 4 bolts for the exhaust, do these just pry/pull off or is there another trick. I am thinking if I can get in closer to the u-joint coupler I can get some pb blaster and possibly remove everything in one unit from the boat and then have a shop rebuild it.....

Any ideas would be helpfull.

I will be back on the boat tomorow to pull off the exhaust and the bell housing but ran out of time today...
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,850
Re: 280 removal

Wow, that sucks.

Can you take apart the ujoint to get the upper off.

You don't have to remove the exhaust.

Have you looked at the manual for the outdrive? Its in the adults only thread under Volvos.
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
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Re: 280 removal

I just bought a new blade for my saw and will try cutting the joint in the am. I need to replace the bearings and the seals, since the previous owners seriously neglected the boat and the drive. I want to rebuild it from the ground up, need to replace it all, or maybe I will just swap it out for a Merc drive....

I have tried everything I can think of..The book doesn't say much..... Just would like to get it all out.
 

Don S

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Re: 280 removal

I've used a large forklift with a chain wrapped around the upper gear box to get it off the shaft. Not a pretty site.
But that is what happens after setting with salt water in them for a long, long time.
I would bet you will be fighting this thing for ever with everything you have to do. Been down that road too many times. It' won't nickle and dime you to death, it goes right for big bucks right to start with, and gets worse.
 

captmello

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Re: 280 removal

How about some history on the boat.

Salt water use?

What year and engine?

What is wrong with the boat? What are you trying to fix?
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
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3,850
Re: 280 removal

I want to rebuild it from the ground up, need to replace it all, or maybe I will just swap it out for a Merc drive....

Reread found this.

What motor you got in this boat?
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
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Re: 280 removal

Reread found this.

What motor you got in this boat?

The boat is a 84 Bayliner Ciera, 27 foot, has a GM 350 in it that I have already rebuilt from another boat that I picked up for spare parts.... The boat was sunk on land and left that way for a short time, long enough to cause some minor damge to the electrical components, then it was placed in the water and left to sit.

it took me two days to scrape the hull and then I was able to get her on a trailer to pull home. I have the interior 80% done and have replaced the main wire harness, Breaker panel and associated components I am down to the drive as the final project.

Would I be better off just putting a merc drive in the boat??? versus rebuliding the Volvo?
 

Don S

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Re: 280 removal

Would I be better off just putting a merc drive in the boat??? versus rebuliding the Volvo?

You would need a new transom in the boat, the hole is too big for the Merc transom shield, then you would need everything but the engine block, including shift interrupt system for a Merc, manifolds, risers, exhaust Y, everything. But the engine itself.
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
Messages
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Re: 280 removal

You would need a new transom in the boat, the hole is too big for the Merc transom shield, then you would need everything but the engine block, including shift interrupt system for a Merc, manifolds, risers, exhaust Y, everything. But the engine itself.

I have several completet Merc setups here from my older boat and from spares. So that wouldn't be an issue, have the parts... Would just need to retrofit the transom to fit the Merc...
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
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Re: 280 removal

sounds like you need an entire outdrive.

Whats the condition of the transom? Have you checked it for rot.
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
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Re: 280 removal

sounds like you need an entire outdrive.

Whats the condition of the transom? Have you checked it for rot.

Other than a couple of spots where I scraped off the barnicles and a chunk of the glass coat broke, the transom sounds solid, used the hammer ping method, no cracks that I can see inside or out, I checked that the second day after I got it home, kinda hard to check while still in the water.

Does the bell housing have a keeper ring on it, according to the IPB that Don prvided a link to in another post it shows one but doesn't state its a keeper ring, I will be back out this afternoon and will be trying the truck chain method, since my wench and slide hammer didnt work. If I manage to get the inner bell off is it possible that the whole shaft may come out as one peice? or will it still stay inside the housing?
 

captmello

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Re: 280 removal

Does the bell housing have a keeper ring on it, according to the IPB that Don prvided a link to in another post it shows one but doesn't state its a keeper ring, I will be back out this afternoon and will be trying the truck chain method, since my wench and slide hammer didnt work. If I manage to get the inner bell off is it possible that the whole shaft may come out as one peice? or will it still stay inside the housing?

The drive shaft in the flywheel cover has snap rings on both ends, as long as the driveshaft is stuck in the ujoint yoke you will not be able to remove the snaprings holding the driveshaft in place. I still think your best bet is to get the ujoints off with a chain or cut the ujoint like you said even though the yoke would still be stuck on the driveshaft. However if you get the upper unit off, you could them remove the clamp ring and remove the engine along with the flywheel cover all at once. Even with the yoke still on the driveshaft. I think...:rolleyes:

Not sure what your saying about a keeper ring. Can you post a link to that thread?
 

Don S

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Re: 280 removal

Not sure what you mean by "Keeper Ring" ?
If you are referring to something holding the splined shaft on the upper gear box to the bellhousing, no.
according to the IPB that Don prvided a link to in another post
If you post a link to the thread you were viewing it would help. I've made a lot of Volvo posts, and don't really want to guess which one you are looking at.
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
Messages
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Re: 280 removal

Not sure what you mean by "Keeper Ring" ?
If you are referring to something holding the splined shaft on the upper gear box to the bellhousing, no.

If you post a link to the thread you were viewing it would help. I've made a lot of Volvo posts, and don't really want to guess which one you are looking at.

http://dougrussell.com/partscatalog...,2154,2155,2156,2157,2158,2159,2160,2161,2162

The above link is the one I am refering to its under the connecting components 280. I see a snap ring (keeper) ring on the IPB but when I climbed into the engine compartment today I felt and even used a screwdriver to verify that I did not find one. I tied a chain to the upper unit and to my truck and bounced it several time that I was able to bend the bolt I attached to the chain, this did not budge the yoke from the shaft one bit, I did manage to get the bell housing loose but not able to remove it due to the stuck shaft.

I am attempting to cut the pivot pins from the intermediate housing so I can get a better shot at getting into the u-joints to cut them out without damaging the yoke itself. I have one pin just about cut completely but my batteries died. Gotta love having Battery operated toys... LOL

Any other ideas, next step is to cut the ujoints and then pull it out from the inside....

Ya'll have been very helpful so far, but I am about to say the heck with it and torch it out..... and start over with all new equipment....
 

Sharkbaite

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May 8, 2009
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Re: 280 removal

Accordingto that picture its item 68, I have looked and don't see one, but it could be worn down past the point of sight. I will be trying again this week, but I will be getting some degreaser to spray in there to remove excess grease.

Can the bell housing be removed with the drive still attached, I am thinking that might be an easier way of getting to the coupler to try and get it apart.....:confused:
 

Don S

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Re: 280 removal

There are two of them if you look close, and you have to remove the seal in the end of the flywheel housing in order to reach the first one. The second one is down against the bearing. Until you get the upper gear box off, there is no way to get to either one.
 
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