Re: 4.3 Mercruiser engine block Cracked- Can you replace with a regular automotive en
I replaced my 4.3L with a Chevy truck long block 3 years ago. I swapped out water pump, manifold and carb and dropped it into my Stingray. (didn't align it, gimbal problem now) and I got rid of the electronic stuff and switched out the distributor to an HEI. I had bought a new ECM (for sale by the way) that I never installed. The only trouble I had with this setup was the first year. I had run it without a thermostat, so a mechanic friend of mine said that I wouldn't develop full horsepower unless engine temp came up, so I put in automotive thermostat.... problem with that was after I shut down the engine, it continued to spit and sputter for a few minutes and finally died. Some dock-side surgery to remove the thermostat, another test-run and she shut down like normal. Did a little research and found the reason for the run-on... The thermostat allowed the engine temp to get too hot, and on shut down, the cylinders were still hot enuf to detonate the remaining gas... and since the carb is bowl/float, each detonation would suck more gas into the cylinders and it spit and sputter to either no gas left to pull or temp cooled enough to halt detonation. The solution was to put in a lower temp thermostat than a normal auto engine. Works like a charm now... no problem... if memory serves, it's a 140 degree Tstat...
I screwed up and didn't read about installing and aligning the engine to the outdrive, now I'm paying by replacing gimbal and bellows.... and having to buy tools to ensure it's done right. If you think "auto engine" don't forget the "boat" stuff as well.