4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Hey Friends,
I picked up a 1997 Maxum with a cracked 4.3 recently on Craigslist. I've got a great 1987 4.3 that only has 200 hours on it. Anyway, I was wondering if someone could just give me some points of note concerning fitment of the old block & components (etc) in the new boat. Here's what I'm aware of so far.
  • 1997 Outdrive Oil Reservoir will need to be installed
  • 1997 Exhaust Manifolds will need to be swapped over (the 97 has an extra 2" riser)

But what about the following components.
  • Flywheel/Engine Coupler the same?
  • Water Pump, Thermostat, Alternator, Idler Pulley, Crank Pulley?
  • Fuel System? (They are both Carbeurated)
  • Ignition System? (They are both Thunderbolt IV)

Thanks for you help.
Ryan

P.S. This forum is GENIUS! Thanks for tirelessly joining in on many boat owner's questions.
 
Last edited:

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

So I got into the project. The swap-over requires extensive swap-over of components. And upon disassembly of the 200hr motor I found a popped freeze plug, cracked manifold and then... a hairline crack on the block just below the head. This sucks. I bought it as a good engine, and I got taken.

So I've got a few options... and I'd like anyone's advice.

1) Tear down my 1997 Vortec motor and see why water got into the block. I've already found several popped freeze plugs, a cracked aluminum oil pan, but the exterior of the block looks fine as do the exhaust manifolds. I could tear it down to the point of failure... but I have a feeling this means ENTIRE disassembly of an engine that may be crap anyway.

2) JB Weld the 200hour block and run it and stick it in the boat. (It's a crap shoot. I don't know if there are any other cracks internally - but i can check the oil to make sure it's clean).

3) I've got a 4.3 block that's frozen, but not cracked. I could rebuild it (or have it done). But the block looks good. Freeze plugs are in tact, no external cracks, etc.

4) Buy a used Chevy 4.3 Vortec shortblock and turn it into a mercruiser with my components.

5) Buy a mercruiser crate engine off of iboats.com (not really an option, sorry).

Let me know what you think.

Thanks
Ryan
 

zbnutcase

Commander
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Messages
2,055
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

Most 4.3s freeze crack in the valley under the intake manifold, so you can't assume it's not cracked until you pull the intake and have a good look.
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

Ok, I've weighed the options and I've made a selection.

I've found a 1996 Vortec Engine at a salvage yard, pulled from a Blazer with a bad tranny. He's selling me JUST the shortblock and it's costing me $150.

I'll let y'all know how it goes. I've seen a TON of people talk about an engine swap-in of this type, but I've never really heard from anyone who has actually done it an reported how it runs in a boat. I'll keep y'all posted.

To be continued...
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

Things are going good. I picked up the 1999 4.3 Blazer motor on Tuesday of this week and the block is IDENTICAL to the one in my boat. It even came with the cast aluminum oil pan that was identical to the mercruiser one (my marine one was cracked as well).

First Things - I bought some brass casting (freeze) plugs and prepared to swap them into the automobile block. The Blazer block ALREADY HAD BRASS PLUGS!!!

The timing covers were slightly different. There was a knockout at the bottom of the Blazer timing cover that wasn't knocked out in the marine motor. This had to be swapped in. To do this we had to drop the oil pan first!

While we had the oil pan off we compared the difference between the cranks. The crank rods & the crank itself were slightly different. They looked like they were weighted the same, but they did have different numbers stamped on both the crank and caps.

We didn't pull pistons from each motor for comparison. (I didn't really want to have to buy rings & bearings to drop the marine pistons in even if they were different).

I've been told that the marine cams are different than the automotive 4.3 cams,
BUT that the truck cams are as close as you can get. Some say that they're identical. But I elected not to swap in my marine cam.

We flipped the engine back over and prepped the mating surfaces on the heads. Installed the ($45! per side) marine head gaskets, and mounted the Vortec MARINE heads onto the block.

The heads were slightly different. The rocker arms from the Blazer had roller bearings at the rocker pivot point. I went ahead and bought the rocker arms from the salvage yard for $10 to see if they would fit my head. (I didn't buy the heads b/c he was asking $35 each and I wanted to use my KNOWN marine heads). The rocker arm stud bolts were too small to swap in for the stud bolts for the marine rockers... so no bearing rockers on this engine. Would these be considered roller rockers, or do roller rockers just have the roller just on the tip where it pushes the spring down?

THE HARMONIC BALANCER WAS DIFFERENT. The marine engine one was at least 3 pounds heavier.

We installed heads, rocker arms, lifter rods.

The top end of the Blazer engine looked identical to the marine engine. The lifters had a guard on both engines (I suppse to keep them from flying out in case of a failed lifter rod).

I reused the intake manifold gaskets. They looked perfect and were a plastic gasket with a rubber bead that looks like they could easily be reused. We cleaned them up, carefully used a knife to clean up the fingers on each end of the gasket, and used gasket silicone for the front and rear of the engine. If they fail, they'll not be too difficult to replace, but get this... they're $100 for the pair!

All of the marine components bolted up to the Blazer engine perfectly.

1) Engine Block Plugs -> Marine L & R Drain Plugs
2) Engine Block Plug where oil filter screws into block -> Marine oil pressure sensor? 3) Blazer Engine Oil Dipstick -> Marine Block Plug
4) Blazer Engine Drain Plug - > Marine Dipstick Tube
5) Blazer Oil filter - > Blazer Oil Filter (Don't worry, We'll swap it out after we do a 5 min oil cycle to flush out the engine for the first time.)
6) Alternator, PS Pump, Fuel Pump, Pulleys, Starter, Distributor are all different but bolted right up.
7) Intakes were differenton (on my setup). Blazer was fuel injected, mine was carb.
8) Water Pump Was Different but it bolted right up.
9) We didn't get the Blazer flywheel, so I don't know if it was different. The marine flywheel bolted right up to the Blazer's crank perfectly.
10) Rear housing was different (obviously), but bolted up perfectly
11) Motor Mounts from the marine engine bolted right up.


I dropped the engine in the boat, connected wire loom, water hoses, fuel line, sensors, etc, and everything is ready to run baby. I'll do another post for this because I have some questions... don't want them to get lost here.
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

1997 Vortec 4.3 Thunderbolt Ignition.

It starts when the key is in the START position, but as soon as the key springs back to the RUN position it dies.

Compression is 140-150 on all cylinders.
Plugs are gapped to .35".
Distributor & crank shaft are aligned properly.

Here are a few options:

There's a single BLACK wire with a flat male connector on the top of the engine, drivers side, just above the manifold cover. Should it be connected to something?

Also in that same area there's BROWN WIRE/BLUE STRIPE with a round female plug that doesn't have anything connected.

There's an oil pressure sender on the back top of the engine that broke when we were rolling the old engine around on the floor. I'm going to replace it but as of now the BROWN WIRE/BLUE STRIPE is just disconnected. Would this keep the boat from running?

I might have the two wires (PURPLE / PURPLE WITH YELLOW STRIPE)on backwards on the oil pressure sending unit that sticks out from above the oil filter. Would this keep the boat from running?

Any other ideas?

Thanks
Ryan
 

Danny Mc

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
71
Re: 4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

Re: 4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

IIRC the purple wire on the OP switch is low oil pressure cut off for fuel pump and other is the buzzer. When you crank eng the wire on the RT hand side of Starter solonoid is for FP on crank, when you let off switch to run the purple wire on OP switch runs pump. There is a OP sender by the Dist with 2 connections also, 1 goes to gauge and I think 1 to ign, they may be backward also. That will let it start but not run when you release switch.
 

cannonford57

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
353
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

i know it sounds simple but check the kill switch...
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

Re: 4.3 Engine Swap In - Starts & Dies.

IIRC the purple wire on the OP switch is low oil pressure cut off for fuel pump and other is the buzzer. When you crank eng the wire on the RT hand side of Starter solonoid is for FP on crank, when you let off switch to run the purple wire on OP switch runs pump. There is a OP sender by the Dist with 2 connections also, 1 goes to gauge and I think 1 to ign, they may be backward also. That will let it start but not run when you release switch.

Thanks for the things to check. I'm thinking it's not a fuel pump issue however, because it dies immediately - like it grounds out after the key is set back to the "run" position. I'll check it still though.

The OP sender by the distributor has one wire (brown w/ blue stripe). I bent my sender, and tried an old style OP sender which made the alarm beep when the key was turned to run. So I just pulled the wire off for the mean time.
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

i know it sounds simple but check the kill switch...

I thought of this and checked it. It's flipped to the ON/RUN position, but that doesn't mean that its connected right under the hood somewhere.
 

cannonford57

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
353
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

kill wires will be black with a yellow tracer.if switch is down it will do as you say.can you hear the fp run after you spin the engine over 2 rounds?
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

kill wires will be black with a yellow tracer.if switch is down it will do as you say.can you hear the fp run after you spin the engine over 2 rounds?

Switch is up for sure. I do hear the FP running (clicking) after it spins a couple rounds.
 

Danny Mc

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
71
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

Put a volt meter on the + side of the coil,when you let off switch in run position it should still read volts, if not start checking back to find prob.
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Switch is up for sure.

Ok, switch wasn't up for sure. It started right up. I think I had a button-pusher hop in the boat while I wasn't looking. New issue though. More major than it not starting. I will post new if I can't find an answer in the forums.

Thanks again everyone!
Ryan
 

incrediblened

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
148
Re: 4.3 Mercrusier Cracked Block Swap-Over

After torquing the rocker arms down correctly the boat is working great. The S-10 engine seems to be working just fine (I guess only time will tell).

thanks for y'alls help.

Ryan
 
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