tahoejag
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2009
- Messages
- 229
First off...let me start by saying this is my method and have found it VERY effective. I live in the very northern region of the U.S. and it gets COLD! I have not had any problems of a freezing block year after year. I would put boat for boat by using this method for anyone who disagrees. I do respect all for their own way of winterizing; however this works for me. Provided is a link for the diagram of water flow, t-stat testing, and vent/drain holes for drive unit.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/94/94hg6a.pdf
First thing I do is make sure all vent/drain holes in drive unit are clear with a piece of wire. I then hook muffs up and run to temp then FOG engine at this time. Engine now off and fogged, I can now service gear lube and change the oil. Once done... I trim the drive all the way in. Remove muffs - I NO LONGER need them. Remove all 5 blue drain plugs and purge with wire while draining. Raise and lower boat with trailer jack to each limit to drain any excess water from engine then return boat/engine to a level positiion. Next, remove all six water hoses that are attached to t-stat housing and remove housing for t-stat service and testing (see link). I leave the t-stat housing removed. I then use compressed air to blow out all six hoses that I just disconnected fm t-stat housing (same method for sprinkler systems). I re-install the 5 blue drain plugs back in, (yes I do put plugs back in) b/c I just got done draining and clearing all the water out and thats why I don't use the muffs any longer, because I DO NOT want to add any more water. Using 3 gallons, yes only 3, with some left over (and not 5 gallons probably b/c of what leaked out of the muffs by using the additional 2 gallons) of -100f marine grade AF. I start filling up each of the riser and exhaust hoses until AF comes out of the back/bottom of the transom. Then I fill the water intake hose which will discharge AF out the lower drive unit. At this time I check the concentration of AF from the back of the transom for the freeze point. I then fill up the circulating pump hose until AF comes out of the t-stat outlet on the top of the intake manifold. I then re-install t-stat, housing and hoses. I AM NOW DONE!
With this method I serviced oil, gear lube, t-stat and fogged engine and have a sample of AF concentration to test to have peace of mind. #note# I didn't use the muffs or a winterizing kit, used only 3 gallons of AF and I did put drain plugs back in.
Again, just my method that is effective and wanted to share.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/94/94hg6a.pdf
First thing I do is make sure all vent/drain holes in drive unit are clear with a piece of wire. I then hook muffs up and run to temp then FOG engine at this time. Engine now off and fogged, I can now service gear lube and change the oil. Once done... I trim the drive all the way in. Remove muffs - I NO LONGER need them. Remove all 5 blue drain plugs and purge with wire while draining. Raise and lower boat with trailer jack to each limit to drain any excess water from engine then return boat/engine to a level positiion. Next, remove all six water hoses that are attached to t-stat housing and remove housing for t-stat service and testing (see link). I leave the t-stat housing removed. I then use compressed air to blow out all six hoses that I just disconnected fm t-stat housing (same method for sprinkler systems). I re-install the 5 blue drain plugs back in, (yes I do put plugs back in) b/c I just got done draining and clearing all the water out and thats why I don't use the muffs any longer, because I DO NOT want to add any more water. Using 3 gallons, yes only 3, with some left over (and not 5 gallons probably b/c of what leaked out of the muffs by using the additional 2 gallons) of -100f marine grade AF. I start filling up each of the riser and exhaust hoses until AF comes out of the back/bottom of the transom. Then I fill the water intake hose which will discharge AF out the lower drive unit. At this time I check the concentration of AF from the back of the transom for the freeze point. I then fill up the circulating pump hose until AF comes out of the t-stat outlet on the top of the intake manifold. I then re-install t-stat, housing and hoses. I AM NOW DONE!
With this method I serviced oil, gear lube, t-stat and fogged engine and have a sample of AF concentration to test to have peace of mind. #note# I didn't use the muffs or a winterizing kit, used only 3 gallons of AF and I did put drain plugs back in.
Again, just my method that is effective and wanted to share.