40HP Outboard Install -DIY Job or Not?

VA_Fishnut

Recruit
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
5
I've slowly been rerigging my motorless boat preparing to have a motor put on. Everything is installed but the engine controls and the motor and the holes are leftover from the previous motor. Just how hard is it to install a 40HP remote outboard and hook up the controls? I've suprisingly been able to do alot of the rigging myself so far and would hate to pay extra to have someone do something I can do myself. Anyone installed their own motor in the 30-50HP size range? Would like to hear your thoughts and suggestions. <br /><br />Also, I have seen some discussion whether installing the motor myself may void the warranty or it has to be inspected by a certified technician in order for the warranty to be activated. Does anyone have first-hand knowledge of this?<br /><br />Thanks, <br />Brian
 

TOHATSU GURU

Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
6,164
Re: 40HP Outboard Install -DIY Job or Not?

All brands of outboards require that an authorized dealer for that brand do the installation. Any dealer that sells you a remote in a box is running the risk of you NOT being covered under warranty and that dealer is subject to having their contract with that brand terminated. However, many state's have consumer protection laws in place that make the manufacturer give you the warranty regardless....But, if YOU make a mistake during the installation process the manufacturer does not have to warranty any damage that results from your mistake.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: 40HP Outboard Install -DIY Job or Not?

It is a very simple procedure, and yes, the warrentee is not void if you do it yourself. A 40hp will weigh about 200lbs, so it helps to have a friend to move it around. <br /><br />Clean the transom of any old sealers and set the motor on the transom. Center the motor and check if the old holes line up and also that the anti cavitation plate (that wide flat horizontal fin area above the prop) is in line with the keel. You don't want the motor sitting too low or too high. If everything lines up (holes and plate) then check that the steering cable is long enough and test fit it in the motors steering tube. Make sure you have enough length in the wires, VRO oil tank line (if applicable) and fuel line. check that the wires and hoses will not bind when the motor is turned full left to right. If it looks like you have enough play, then apply sealers to the through transome bolts (I like stainless) attach the wires and hoses. Remove the steering cable, coat with marine grease and re-install cable and steering linkage. <br /><br />A service manual for the motor will tell you how to go about making the wire and hose connections, VRO considerations, break in procedure, etc. The mechanics are simple, but you need to be sure it is done right. Also check out posts about mounting engines and how to seal the bolts that go through the transome. <br /><br />I used Boat Life sealer because it is not an adhesive like some of the 3m products that are popular. It seals very well, come apart when you want it to, but the drawback is it takes a few days to fully cure. Not what you want if you're in a hurry. But you won't pull off the gel coat off the transom the next time you remove the motor either. <br /><br />I suggest you do more searches. Lots of info on this and other forums on this topic. And the owners manual and service manual for your motor are "must have" items.<br /><br />Enjoy!
 
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