48 Johnson Idle RPMs??

srwillett

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Hello all. Recent first time boat purchaser of a 14 ft Mckee Craft with a 48 Johnson. Great first ride today and the seller of the boat has been extremely helpful and mentioned this slight issue... the engine has difficulty when in idle and likes to conk out. The previous owner had it serviced a few months ago with new spark plugs. She thinks the idle needs to be turned up a little. From what I read, using a tachometer to gauge the RPMs is the course to take but I don't know what the RPMs should be at in general?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Fact-----When a 2 stroke is idling there is more time for air to leak from various parts of the engine.----So this is why a compression test is step #1 on that motor.----Post your numbers.
 

srwillett

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Sorry for the delay on my response. Found out my motor is a 1994 Johnson 48 (J48ESLERD). Have not completed a compression test but like I mentioned, previous owner said PSI was normal before selling. Have used it the last month, running great other than at idle. Is it okay to tinker with the idle screw or is it absolutely necessary for a compression test prior? I've spoken with a work associate who immediately said turn up the rpms when I mentioned the problem. Totally new to all this with zero experience concerning motors, engines, etc. Just trying not to mess anything up!
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Sound like the same problems I was having with my smaller Evinrude motor last year. I rebuilt my carburator last year with a cheap kit (from China) It still would stall at idle speed. I rebuilt it again this year with an Evinrude carb kit, plus I soaked the carb body in a solvent to make sure all of the gunk was out. Runs and idles like a brand new motor today. it is a 1991 model. Clean your carb.
 

srwillett

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If the previous owner took it to be serviced in February where the mechanic replaced a few things like water pump kit, spark plug, took it out on the water, and gave it the thumbs as good to go....would they typically check the carburetor or no?? Just wondering.
 

iggyw1

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They would not take it apart & clean it without the customer asking them to or giving his permission if they said it "could use a good cleaning. It runs good but a little rough on the idle" etc. etc. (or something on this order). It is pretty E-Z to do and not too expensive at all, especially for all the headaches it takes away from you.
 

srwillett

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Gotcha. Makes sense. Is there a good video or step by step instructions you know about I could access?? I need it dumbed down as much as possible being my first time and all but would really like to do this on my own.
 

iggyw1

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Gotcha. Makes sense. Is there a good video or step by step instructions you know about I could access?? I need it dumbed down as much as possible being my first time and all but would really like to do this on my own.

Just type in "how to rebuild an outboard carburator" on your search bar and MANY , MANY videos will come up. Watch a few of them and you will see how easy it is to do.

edit: Get a service manual for that motor as well. It will help you out a great deal with any repairs you need to do in the future.
 

srwillett

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Looks like I can get my service manual electronically. So your suggestion is not to mess with the idle screw correct? I'm thinking I won't try the whole remove and clean carburetor until I get comfortable enough after looking at some videos and the manual but still take the boat out.
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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No, you can "mess" with it. There are two screws, so to speak, that will effect your idle. One is an idle speed screw, the other is a fuel / air ratio valve, sometimes referred to as a slow speed mixing screw or slow speed needle valve.

The idle screw can be turned in or out to adjust your RPM's without turning in so much as to cause the gears to grind or slam into gear when you shift. That can happen if you raise the RPM's too high. If you do, just back off on the idle screw is all. A little turn makes a big difference on the RPM's. Too slow, turn it in. Too fast, turn it out.

* DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT HAVING IT ON MUFFS OR IN A TUB OF WATER!!!!

The slow speed mixture screw goes into the side of the carburator. It usually has a spring that you can see around it for tension so it does not vibrate in or out. (On some motors, the spring is inside of the carb body & you cannot see it) Turn this screw (valve) IN all the way, but once you feel resistance, stop turning it in, You do not want to turn it in real tight so you do not damage the point on the valve (screw). COUNT how many turns you turned it in so you can always put it back where you started from if you choose to.

Once you get the screw in all the way so it is just seated on the valve seat (inside the carb), turn this screw out 1 & 1/4 turns. Start the engine and let it warm up. Put it into forward gear to adjust the slow speed screw (slow speed needle valve). Now, turn that screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE 1/8 turn at a time, giving the motor a few seconds to re-act to that adjustment. Keep turning it out 1/8 turn at a time until it begins to stall at which point you will turn it back the other way that last 1/8 turn. *Give the motor time to re-act to every 1/8 turn.

Now, turn it CLOCKWISE 1/8 turn at a time, again giving the motor time to re-act to the adjustment, then keep turning it 1/8 turn until it begins to stall, then turn it back that last 1/8 turn. Between the two points where the motor began to stall is your happy medium "honey spot". Then adjust the idle speed screw to change your RPM's that will let the motor idle at a good idle speed so you can shift gears with no grinding or banging of the gears. (around 800-900 RPM's or so).

NOTE: You can remove the fuel / air mixture screw (slow speed adjustment valve) all the way out if you want to, and spray some carb cleaner with the nozzle on the can into the hole where that screws goes. This will get rid of some crud in there that may be plugging things up. Spray it with carb cleaner, then some air from a compressor (not too much pressure) or canned air that you would use on your keyboard sold at Staples or Office Max). I use the canned air as it is drier than the compressed air from your compressor, but either one will work. Then put the mixture screw back in, starting at 1 & 1/4 turns out from being fully seated. Watch a few videos first to get comfortable with things.
 
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