5.0 MPI Converting Cat manifolds to Non-Cat Manifolds

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
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I have a 2011 Mercruiser 5.0 MPI with Catalyst manifolds. Since the rear oxygen sensors rotted away every 18 months and threw an alarm I eliminated them with the CPI module. It simulates the rear oxygen sensors so your PCM doesn't throw a code. The rear O2 sensors only purpose in life is to tell the PCM if the catalyst are working. I use the CPI simulator since I am on a private lake and it has worked flawlessly. I also removed Catalyst cartridges. Result was no pinging using 87 Octane prior to that I had to use 89 octane. Even though my engine has tons of sensors Mercruiser eliminated the knock sensors on my model. I gained about 3 mph on top end. Exhaust doesn't stink like a skunk anymore.

Option 1 - Existing manifolds are 10 years old with 225 hours. Cost to replace manifolds and risers with Mercruiser catalyst style is $2K. I do the labor. Cat manifolds weigh 74lbs vs 43lbs for old style.

Options 2- Eliminate Cat manifolds and revert to traditional dry joint manifolds and risers. Barr manifold/riser kit with all hardware and gaskets delivered to my house $1k. I would have to buy a new thermostat housing used on eBay $150. Two new thermostat to riser hoses $70, new exhaust elbow from riser to rubber bellows used $150, drill and tap new manifolds for pre cat O2 sensor -free or buy space plates $100. So let say first time $1500. Note if I didn't have CPI simulator it would be another $450 so I am back at cost for Cat Manifolds. I could possible use my thermostat and riser hoses with modification. Taking a little chance flow could be different that would save$150. Pretty easy to try so if temps get high I can always go back and get different thermostat.


As far as manifold history my 1988 3.0 liter went 12 years before failing. Easily 500 hrs run time. First set failed back side of exhaust passage. Second set I replaced at 10 years with Barr manifolds and when broke apart could have gone another 10 years. Second set probably had half the hours as first set. That is when we starting drinking instead of sking. Salt to brackish water. Flushed with freshwater after every single use.

My buddies 350 Mag went 10 years and 245 hours. Manifold cracked externally at corner, When I broke apart again back side of exhaust passages looked good, it just accumulated sediment in corner and I assume overheated. Flushed with freshwater after every single use.

One key difference between Catalyst manifolds and traditional style is they are smooth, no corners and weigh twice what traditional manifolds weigh. I found where Mercruiser warrants new Catalyst manifolds 3 years or 475 hours.

My opinion is hours kills manifolds not age. Its the heat affecting vulnerable area just behind the exhaust passage where exhaust gas at 700F are hitting cast iron with 160F water is cooling on the opposite resulting in erosion corrosion.

It's painful there isn't a reliable way to determine manifold condition without use of sledge hammer. It's painful to spend $2K on manifolds which may be good for another 10 years. Its painful to loose a perfectly good engine due to a manifold failure. Ultrasonic testing isn't valid on cast materials due to the variable in castings.

In the end I go 10 years before changing manifolds. So $500 over 10 years isn't much savings, next change would save $1K if converted.

Resale value is important. If I convert I am sure some snowflake shop will tell the potential owner all the bs. In reality I would have done them a huge favor converting to traditional manifolds. I can sell the cats in my attic for probably $600 for set. Now if anyone ever has to replace catalyst you are forced to convert as the catalyst are $1200 each.

If you haven't figured it out yet Catalyst killed the sterndrive engines due to the increased cost. That is why all you see now is outboards BUT rumor is they are required to have catalyst in the near future....


1) So what would you do convert now for $1500 possible affecting resale value. In addition traditional manifolds weigh half as much so they not last as long as the catalyst manifolds. I haven't heard of any catalyst manifolds failing yet, I heard of a lot of catalyst cartridges in big blocks failing but not the manifolds.

2) Pay $2K worth of manifolds now. Looking at the design I feel risk are greatly reduced with just manifold replacement and not riser. Risers contain a fraction of the water as manifold and if it were to leak i don't think its possible it could hydrolock the engine. if fails during running engine pressure keep water going out boat. Save $1k by not replacing risers.

3)Do nothing, temperatures are good, assume if Mercrusier was warranting for 475 hours wait until 350 hours and reevaluate.
 

alldodge

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I'm interested in how it work s now, and after conversion if it will actually continue to work?

Like all changes there are things that are missed in programming but later fixed. You have a PCM which appears can be fooled.

One thing not mentioned it the possible changes is
4) What if EPA gets wind this has happened?
 

Searay205

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
468
As of now the boat runs flawlessly. I could put the cats back on and put o2 sensors back on. Get less power, have to baby the boat as not to hurt the catalyst and have the smell of skunk. In the manual it says to never shut boat down quickly after hard run or you will damage catalyst. Earlier this year i ran aground. I shut engine down immediately and i was going wide open, probably would have ruined catalyst.

PCM is not being fooled it is digesting a signal it deams within specification.

As far as working after the manifold retrofit if i use the old style thermostat it should work without issue. As far as the PCM not throwing codes it isn't throwing codes now and the pre cat o2 sensors will be reinstalled. Precat O2 are critical as the PCM uses their feedback to adjust fuel trim.

As far as EPA they should relish in the Apple Fire going on in CA right now caused by a diesel engine doing a regen cycle. See they screwed with diesel engines and now every 500 miles the exhaust reaches 1100F to burn off the particulate. Besides affecting engine reliability they managed to burn down part fo the country with 1100f exhaust temperatures.


I guess another option is to buy a PCM555 and associated wiring harness off eBay and rewire.
 
Last edited:

alldodge

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Not getting into the smog stuff just the comment of the legal things which could happen later

I'm interested as how the PCM sees the correct signals its looking for without the O2's

Would leave like you have it now and decide later. My self I plan to never buy a boat with CAT's
 

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
Messages
468
Oxygen sensor generate milliamps when heated. The oxygen sensor millivolt changes with oxygen content. The black box I have seen modulates a milliamp signal and sends to the PCM. Its pretty nifty as I original thought someone could just take a resistor and make a little circuit and send a millivolt to the PCM. Not so quick the Mercruiser PCM looks for a varying signal, most cars don't. So the black box sends a modulated millivolt signal to the CPU simulating what a properly operating Oxygen sensor would see after properly operating catalytic converts. I assume it gets its power from the heater circuit. Please note the module is completely plug and play with OEM style connections. I have watched the signal on my RInda and it works flawlessly. Truth be told unless you know exactly where to look in boat you would never know its connected as the oxygen sensors are still in the manifold with the leads tied down in the back where you would be upside down to see them disconnected.

All that said there are 100's of devices on the market for cars to bypass the cats. I have even seen little bushings with catalytic material just in front of the sensor for $29.99. Many companies make O2 simulators BUT I don't think they will work with the Mercruiser PCM because it requires a fluctuating signal as specified in my PCM 09 manual.

The module requires you operate on unregulated waters or private lakes. The EPA has zero chance of enforcing any laws as there are zero resources. Boats don't get annual inspections like vehicles. Bottom line if the OEM would make reliable equipment that doesn't rot out, electronics that work people wouldn't invent work arounds. I have no desire to work on a boat in 95F that isn't throwing a code.

You can run without the rear oxygen sensors connected. boat will run identical to what it does when connected. you will get an alarm every two seconds. Only purpose is to tell PCM Catalyst are working, nothing else. Again easy solution cut wire on siren under dash. I ran like that for 3 months. Your guardian system will still work you just won't get a siren. Funny I had a boat with no computer, no alarms, no remote gear lube bottle for 30 years. How the heck did I make it..... lol .

I agree with avoiding Cat boats but that means you are sticking prior to 2011 for sterndrives or you are going outboard or you are doing what I am doing or going broke at dealer. Marine Max quoted $405 to replace two O2 sensors. It doesn't take long to pay for the module. If you replaced Manifolds, risers, catalyst, o2 sensors you would be over $4k in parts!!!!!!!!!!

I will say outside the rear O2 sensors rotting and owning boat for 4 years (time flies) I have had only 1 other ghost code I got first time out this spring. Precat 02 sensor slow to react. O2 sensor was good, my guess was i was having some misfires at idle (saw on Rinda) twisted all my spark plug boots and never came back nor did the misfires. Code went away on its own and never came back.

My path forward until 300 hours is to continue to open single point drain a couple times a year when flushing to minimize sediment and start using salt away. Guy got 1000 hours out of his manifolds and said all he used was Salt-Away. If I can get 300 plus hours out of my manifolds I will stick with the cat manifolds.
 

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
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Quick update. I had to take my outdrive off 3 times until I finally got a gasket that didn't slide out between outdrive and gimbal. In doing that I decided to beat the skeg straight, it had a pretty bad warp. I have no idea how I didn't snap it off, used 3lb engineer hammer but got it 90% better. While doing that and turning the outdrive upside down and sideways I knocked a lot of rust chunks free. One chunk was 3/8" think by 3/4" long. I found it by looking inside the propeller. It was so big it was too big to pass through the coolant discharge hole in the exhaust manifold. I can only assume it is coming from the end of the manifold where the o2 sensors always rotted out. right where exhaust gases meet engine water. I have decided to replace the manifolds now at 10 years, 230 hrs. Previous owners used in Florida and salt water, I am in brackish. I doubt I will have this boat in 10 years so will replace manifolds and quit debating it. As far as converting to old style not sure yet, but leaning toward keeping the Cat manifolds. I found a non-cat 5.0 mpi complete on Craigslist Houston for $5k. It would be plug and play. Low hour freshwater engine from Lake Conroe. I paying 40% of an entire used engine to just replace manifolds. I have all "winter" (lol Houston 90F through Thanksgiving) to think about it. I am boated out this year, 24 times since April water was cold Saturday probably 82F. I will rotate to the wave runner until October, then its off to the mudlark for ATV's until spring.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,093
Ahhh don't know what to tell you, but if it were me I'd sell it when its working well and get an outboard. We went through this crap with stupid plastic idle limiter caps on the mixture needles on our carbs for cars in the '70s pre cats. You were told that it would not pass inspection if they were not in place. And if you removed them, the replacements were a different color so the inspectors would know. This nightmare totally turned me off of inboards. I'd never ever spend my money on something destined to make me miserable. So I keep the old boat going. When the time comes I'll repower it but staying with a simple carb motor. If I need glass work done due to rot then I'll pay for that willingly. But I will not pay for a trouble causing heat generator in the bilge.
A friends son is going through this right now with a Merc 4.3. $4500 to replace the exhaust. I told him to sell it as is and get an outboard. I/O boats are hard enough to sell here due to salt water use, that makes it really difficult unless the buyer has no idea. Even tho there are no inspections for boats (yet) who knows what could happen if you make mods and then sell it. The guy goes to a shop because of an issue and the tech tells him what you did, small claims court? Because now he has a boat a regular shop might not fix.
 

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
Messages
468
My Searay 205 is a very unique with the 5.0 mpi (260hp) in a 3,100 lb boat. Makes for exceptional drivability and endless power. In Texas if you sale a boat, car, dirt bike, no warranty implied. Seller is not liable for anything, sold as is. Sterndrives are dead, outboard are the way to go. Currently there isn't a outboard bow rider for under $30k used I would be interested in. I have $21K into my boat with a 2017 Shorelander galvanized trailer. So I am still in the black as market value is $26K, truth be told anyone that wants a 5.0mpi in my boat (wakeboarding, salomn skiers) will pay whatever I ask since they are extremely rare most have the 5.0 carb or 4.3 mpi which has cats so your really screwing yourself.

Its also the largest boat I can store for $75/month enclosed. A foot longer and I jump to $140 month. I have 10 years on the existing manifolds coming from Florida which is 100% salt water. If I can get 10 years for $2k life goes on. If I had to pay $4,500 it would be gone.

I will remove the manifolds this winter. I will take them into work. I will let my inspectors shoot some UT readings. See what they come back. Again from my experience the majority happens back side of exhaust passages which is easily accessible when manifold off engine. Hopefully they can remove a plug take a measurement than calibrate their Ultarasonic testing unit and take some readings. If not no worries I will take my bands saw and cut in half. The chunks of rust I found in my prop area are huge. Something is dissolving lol, no water in the oil and it runs great, but it is put away until spring.

Need another pandemic get the market to spike again (lol) and retire. Live in same starter house for 23 years. Once retired I am out of miserable Houston, get a place with some acreage or on the water. Get a 28 Donzi ZXI with twin 350 MAGs..... I keep going back to sterndrives because of my familiarity with them. A little stupid, I am familiar because of issues but I don't want issues............
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,093
What convinced me more than anything to not get an I/O next time even beyond the Cat Converter issue:
yeah we inboard guys always said, outboard motor makers rip you off on parts prices, right?
well peruse a late model Merc or Volvo I/O catalog, its the same damn thing. They are ripping you off just as bad for an inherently inferior product! The only advantage and I mean the only one, if you are in salt water is that an inboard can be equipped with closed cooling that eliminates the corrosion problem that catches up with expensive outboards too. Other than that, outboards are superior because:

Safety, no fuel fumes in the bilge, no bellows that can fail and put water in the boat or cause expensive repairs if not serviced also, no cooling hoses that can fail and put water in the bilge, from raw water pumps and exhaust system

Better performance due to less weight on an average, 400-500 lbs less on the transom, higher tech engines can rev higher than pushrod GM design

Much easier winterizing, the worst thing in the world is winterizing a raw water cooled I/O up here in the North East, with it being 40 degrees out, been there, done this, and now I time it to do it on a warm October day, not in November. If I repower the old boat it will be with closed cooling and a remote oil filter mount to eliminate the nonsense of having to remove the rear seats for maintenance.

I/Os made sense when the engines were simple and cheap and more reliable than 2 stroke carbed outboards. Now they are neither, just as expensive and not worth the headaches. At least not to me. I love Chevy small blocks but I'd much rather have one in a hot rod or classic car than a boat today!
 

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
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I agree with everything you said regarding outboards. Truth be told the most reliably engine I ever had was a Mercury 90 hp two stroke on a 1978 Welcraft. Problem is boat would only do 35 mph but did it every time i used it for 5 years and sold. I never ever touched that motor, fired every time 20 plus times a year. Similar to my 1998 Kawasaki ZXI, bullet proof right up to the day the rod came out the side of the block. On a flip side they drank fuel quicker than I drink water. Holy **** I smoked 14 gallons of fuel in 1.5 hours on the Kawasaki. Rumor is a two stroke dumped a gallon of unburnt fuel and oil into the water every hour of run time. I believe it.

I understand the new 4 stroke outboards are the real thing. Not to be a party pooper but pretty sure our California buddies are requiring cats on those by 2022?

The accessibility of many sterndrive components make them undesirable compared to outboard in addition to ignoring the added weight, space consumed in boat. In addition the boats I look are 100% fiberglass so fears of the transom falling off to rot and an outboard hanging off it are all but mute.

I need to test drive one.
 
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