5.7 GSI no start!!

[JGUNTER1]

2000 Model Four Winns 285 with Twin 5.7GSIPEFS... When I turn the key to run nothing happens!! No fuel pump, no beep, the guages do energize.. So being as brief as possible here is where I am.. I bought the boat 2 weeks ago sight unseen on an auction with the information that one motor needed a starter and both needed service as they have not run in nearly 2 years...Both motors turned over so I figured I am good... I take it home and put 2 fresh batteries in replace the one starter and check the fluids.. When I turn the key I noticed that the fuel pump did not prime.. I turned the engine over and it did spin but not start.. I then put some fuel in the throttle body and it fired right up and ran for a few seconds till the fuel ran out.. Still no fuel pump. I came on here and did lots of tests and did the jumper wire for the fuel pump ( it works ) I also installed the test node in the TBI and they are not getting the ground to flash ( the hot wire is hot but does not flash when engine is spinning ) I checked all the fuses and all are good ( again the engine will run if I pour gas in the throttle body ) I am to the point of pulling the computers and sending them to be checked.. Is there a way I can check them? Also what are the odds that both would go bad?? Any guidance is appreciated..

 

[Fun Times]

Hi there, welcome to iboats!

First thing you'll want to do/check is the main 10 pin wire harness cannon plug found at the engine. With the key on, wiggle the harness to see if you get a beep and the fuel pump to go on. You may have to unplug it to look for corrosion buildup and clean as needed.

Also there should be some (normally 2) red circuit breakers that can be tough to push in, be sure they're good and 12v power is flowing at both wire connectors. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...s&qpvt=Volvo+penta+circuit+breakers&FORM=IGRE

Both engines do not start?

Ensure your Volvo penta lanyard kill switch is in the on/run position at or near the shifter control unit. They do fail at times. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=volvo+penta+lanyard+kill+switch&FORM=HDRSC2

I believe there may be a small purple wire that connects to the starter, if so ensure you got it connected.

While cranking the engine over, are you seeing an RPM signal at the tachometer of about 400 RPM?

You could try disconnecting the gray wire off of the back of the tachometer and see if it will start as a bad tach will ground out and keep the engine from starting.

If you find that you really have no power or ground issues, then the two most common component failures are the ignition module or pickup coil both found under the distributor cap. They are the main two items that would start the activation process of firing the injectors. But since the engine did start with adding fuel, this should not be the problem.

The purple wire at the ignition key is the wakeup line for the ignition system all the way back to the ECM basically. It sounds like you have ignition power at the dash but not at the engine. You need to see if you've lost 12v power between the two areas.

There is a place you could send your ECM's to be checked out but call them first. http://mefiburn.com/contact.asp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9QqlKuiBF0

 

[JGUNTER1]

Thank you very much for the info... So to answer some of your questions and tell you what I have tried over the weekend... And where my frustration has led me!!

I have verified that the kill switches are good.. ( if they are not clipped on the motors will not even spin ) same if the shifter is not in the neutral position..
I checked the hot wires thru the circuit breakers ( all good )
I will have to confirm which wires are hooked to the starter? do not remember purple??

In some of my tracing of wires I have discovered that someone less attentive to details than myself has repaired wires and made splices or new runs for certain things such as the alternator feed and the battery selector switch...

The biggest thing that is baffling me at this point is that one engine has three hot wires under the relays and the other only has two.. Also when I turn the key to the run position on either engine I do not get any response, no safety beep or fuel pump.. Not sure if the purple wire that comes from the ignition switch has power and where that plugs into the engine or ecm? I will check that today..

All of that to say that I am seriously considering removing all of the computer items and swapping for good old fashion carbs and ignition... If anyone has done that could you chime in and let me know what I will need to do to maintain functionality of the instruments.. My dad and I had a race shop in the late 80's to mid 90's and had a Fountain 38' lightning with 2 572's.... Had Holley 1050's and was stupid reliable.... I do realize that efi/tbi should be more efficient however my concern is that I know that when you begin to mess with wires in a harness you can cause issues with the ecm.. ( an ecm is over $1000 ) not to mention all of the tracing and wiring that could need to be done and continue to be needed..

 

[JGUNTER1]

I just noticed your bit about the Tach... Yes the tach does operate and like I said originally when I get it to start all of the instruments function.. Good oil pressure, voltage and tach signal..

I am thinking the best place to start is with the purple wire that comes from the ignition switch to the ECM?? since I do not appear to be waking the ecm as I get no fuel pump priming or warning beep..