5.7 Long Block Rebuild

Karl.

Cadet
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
29
Hi,

I have recently bought a reman 5.7 long block.

Is there a rebuild guide to follow to show me how to move all my parts over to the new block.

Eg where to use sealer around the inlet manifolds etc
 

Karl.

Cadet
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
29
So I removed the inlet manifold off my current engine.

Someone has already done a patch job on the block but it looks like the inlet manifold gasket didn't seal correctly around the water ports. One of the gaskets was only sitting on by about 2mm.
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Is it worth trying a new inlet manifold gasket to let me away to the end of the season or should I just fit the new long block now?

Also, what's under the cover on the inlet manifold? Should I remove it and clean underneath it before fitting it to the new long block?
 

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Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Only question I have is did you pressure test and find you had a leak somewhere, and hence a new long block? If you did not pressure test then the only way to know what you have is to reassemble.
 

Karl.

Cadet
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
29
I blocked off the water pipes going to the manifolds and pressurised the water inlet pipe and it held 15 psi. We held it for about 5 mins and it didn't leak.

I should of pressure tested it for longer.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,303
pressurised the water inlet pipe and it held 15 psi.

If the block was drained of all water prior to pressurizing then the motor should be good. If it still had water in it, then maybe not

The milky oil either came from the motor (head, intake, block) or the exhaust.

The intake gasket looks like it was leaking

No need to remove the pan from the intake
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,382
It looks like the port side of that intake was leaking. Might be a poor gasket, or corrosion of the sealing surfaces. I would:
very carefully clean up all the sealing surfaces, be especially careful with the cyl heads, keep debris out of the intake ports. Use rolled up paper towels in the intake ports then carefully vacuum them out when done. Try not to gouge any sealing surfaces. The intake is easier, you can use a long sanding board to get it nice and flat, then check flatness with a straight edge and feeler gauges, should be at least within .003" or less. When re-assembling as Rick said use Fel Pro gaskets and I use a bit of Permatex Aviation or Merc Perfect seal or Evinrude gasket sealer on the water ports of the cyl heads and intake. It also helps hold the gaskets in place when installing. Be careful to follow torque specs and sequences. That might be all you need to do to keep water out of the oil.
What do the sealing surfaces of your manifolds and elbows look like? Since you have an older engine (pre-vortec pre roller cam) you probably have the wet exhaust joint style which can be prone to leaks if not maintained.
 

Karl.

Cadet
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
29
I recently changed the gaskets on the elbows just to make sure that wasn't causing the problem.

I have a gasket kit sitting so I will try that. The repairs to the block seem to be done pretty good so if I got the rest of the season out of this block I would be happy enough.
 

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Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,382
From the pix they don’t look like they were leaking
 
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