'54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

jimh6278

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
75
OK – here is the deal. I found a local guy who works on outboards, gets them running, and sells them. Sometimes on eBay. I am sure guys like this exist in every community. Anyway, he let me know that he had an old Evinrude “Big Twin”. I mentioned it on an earlier post. I was half-heartedly looking for one of these things at the time.

He gave me the model and it indicated a 1954 Evinrude, electric start, short shaft. Exactly what I was looking for my fishing boat project. Last nite I visited him and got to see the motor for the first time. We talked long enough so that I had a comfort factor that he knew what he was doing.

The first picture is a front view with the cowl off. The motor is fairly clean with the exception of some age grime. The grime is most visible behind the carrying handle. Also visible in the picture is the homemade steering linkage attached to the handle.

Frontview.jpg


The second picture is a quarter view of the engine showing the starter and condition of the unit generally. To me the unit looks fairly clean given that it has been sitting for a couple years. As F_R posted at one point the starter is big enough for a car. So is the flywheel.

starboardviewdetail.jpg


Third picture is rear view showing engine, shaft, and propeller shaft. I don’t see anything special here. It sat in the water for a little while but that can be cleaned up. The engine looks fairly clean.

rearview.jpg


Now the first issue. The fourth picture is a close-up of the exhaust shaft. Note the white fill marks. After the picture we scrapped the fill off and as expected someone had drilled a ¼ inch hole on each side of the housing. And then they were plugged (it looks like bondo). I would love to know why the holes were drilled and is this a critical issue.

holesinexhausthousing.jpg


Last photo leads to another question. The hood is wrong for the year. At least as I look at the old brochures. I think this hood is from 1953 or earlier. The model # 25916-09653 says it is a 1954. The paint is off also. It could be a 1953 color or re-painted. The exterior paint is darker blue than what a 1954 model should be and it differs from the internal engine paint. I don’t care so much about the color but I would like to find out why there is a discrepancy between the model # and the hood style. Could Evinrude sold some 1954 units with an earlier hood.

hood.jpg


The motor seems to have good compression and when we hit the starter with a battery it really kicked the motor over. In fact it wanted to fire but had no fuel. If we do not see good compression readings tomorrow we quit. We emptied the lower unit and the oil was clean. No water.

The deal on the motor is the guy will sell it to me running for $350. New impeller, refurbished and balanced prop, new plugs and new ignition if necessary, etc. I get to work with him. While he is doing the impeller and we are looking at water pump housing I will replace a couple of frayed wires. This winter if I buy it I will rebuild the carb. The price also includes a gas tank, 2 hose connecter and remote control box with trashed cables. I need a box regardless and already figured on buying shift/throttle cables. If he doesn’t get it running I owe nothing and I am out a couple wires and a couple hours.

Enough rambling. Opinions on the motor. The year doesn’t bother me particularly because the hood fits and all the dials are present and in good shape. What about those holes in the exhaust housing.
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Very solid motors, but not quite as robust as later versions of the Big Twin series. Still, not a bad motor, though. Real stump pullers, too! Later ones used better bearings on the rods. Not a huge issue, but it does mean you MUST run that motor on a stedy diet of 24:1 mix.

The cowling is probably correct. The electric start cowling was a little different than the regular, as the motor was not originally offered with electric start, so they had to modify the cowling castings to handle the starter motor bulge. Your cowling and motor have definitely been repainted and labeled with what appears to be mailbox letters. The original color is that found on the powerhead. The holes in the rear of the leg are likely there for exhaust relief. They may have allowed a bit of backpressure to bleed off to allow easier starting, better idle, etc. Could have been a bracket there that tied into an auxilary motor, too. Who knows...

- Scott
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Just an estimate on what various parts are worth (ebay, no labour, conservative estimates):
Tank & line - $50
Fresh ignition - $50-$100, say $75
Water pump - $15
Good prop - $30
Remotes with cables - $50
That all adds up to $220. Not a bad deal at $350. If worse came to worse and the whole thing blew up, you could probably make money on that parting it out on ebay.

You can live with the 6v electrics if you want to go to 12v. The 6v starter will put up with 12v, and the choke solenoid can be limited with a ballast resistor.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

does he have the carb sliencer? i'm running a 55' 15hp i would be real tempted on to take that one.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

There is a picture of the motor in the original sales brochur at old-omc.de/
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that is a 6 volt system.It it could be up graded easily with a 12 volt starter.It probably doesn't have a charging system and if it does it would be a generator and again 6 volt.
Generator is no big deal if you are not running a bunch of heavy load systems.I think these are great motors and about the only draw back is they are pretty thirsty.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

The only difficulty with the 12v starter is finding a 12v starter with a bracket that fits around the cowling mounts, etc. I'm not sure which ones will.

I don't think the silencers came in until '55 or '56. I think it was about the same time they started doing all the isolators and such.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

I don't think OMC ever offered a 6v generator.
 

jimh6278

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
75
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Thanks for the input. It has a manual choke. There is no choke solenoid. I don't no how they started these things originally. I assume some kind of push button at the stern which is what I am planning. I hope the Starter can stand short doses of 12 volts.

Any ideas on the holes in the exhaust housing or just forget it. The thing I like almost as much as the price is that he will let me be there as it comes apart and goes back together. He is only obligated to get it going and pumping water but I can add items at my cost as we go along, eg points, condenser, plug wires, etc.

My objective is to have a good general purpose boat and motor that an old guy can handle by himself on calm, fresh water. My bias is that this motor (even with 24:1) will do the trick. So far I have not heard any killer items.

I am goning to keep the 1966 Johnson (manual start) as a spare because I don't have anything in it and next spring get rid of the Merc 200.
 

jimh6278

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
75
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Oh - and no generator. Very simple machine.
 

itstippy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
548
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

An excellent chance for me to ask a question and maybe help you out too, jimh6278.
I heard or read somewhere that when you have the plugs out to do a compression test you can also check for excessive play in the wrist pin/connecting rod/rod bearings by pushing on the piston face. Basically you turn the flywheel by hand until a piston begins it's down cycle. At this point the connecting rod is pulling the piston. Theoretically you can now insert a wooden dowel through the spark plug hole and push on the piston. If the piston moves significantly without moving the flywheel then you are seeing "slop" in the aforementioned wrist pin/connecting rod/rod bearings assembly. Do this for all pistons. Please, wise ones, is this a practical test or is it hogwash? If it is a practical test, how much "slop" is too much "slop"? What do YOU guys do to check for "slop", or is it all a waste of time?
Thanks!
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

The starter, and choke switch Were mounted on the dash of the boat. They were both a push button switch, not a key switch. The solinoid was housed in a metal box, with cover which was mounted to the transom. As I recall, the solinoid had a push botton on the bottom of it's case so that you could crank the engine there if need be. I had a 54, rope start big twin new, when I was a high school kid. We ran it on a 14 Ft. Dunphy cedar strip boat. Back then, I think every cent I could get my hand's on went for fuel.I wonder if those mark's at the bottom of the exhaust housing are holes. Back about that time there was an after market bracket of cast aluminum that went around the exhaust housing, and mated together about where those mark's are. It had a cast eyelet on the end. It was meant for pulling a water skier.
 

BoatBuoy

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
4,856
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

You are correct on the solenoid location. There is one difference between it and some others. The single small post on it is always hot(+12v). The start circuit is made from it to the start button and back to the mercury switch on the throttle linkage. This mercury switch cannot accommodate 12v. Either remove it from the circuit and ground the wire(dangerous), or fashion one from a '57 or later.

I believe this is the bracket you're talking about:
skibracket.jpg


It doesn't fasten to the leg, only clamps around it. So the holes are still a question.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

i new they had existed,but never seen the tow eye. thanks.
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

That is the bracket I was talkig about, but I see the mounting bolt's are in a different position than I thought.
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

The starter will operate at 12 volts for short bursts which should be all you need.Though I often wondered about the mechanical components holding up to the strain.
I had a 53 studebaker I cranked for years at 12 volts and it held up fine.I used 2 6 volt batteries in a series
I operated the solinoid and the rest of the car on one 6
volt battery that was charged by the generator.The 6 volt starter was the only thing that got the 12 volts.
It cranked very fast solving a hot starting problem i could never fix.I simply charged the extra battery occasionally.You could use two 6 volts to do the opposite 6 volts for cranking and 12 volts to operate accessories.
 

jimh6278

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
75
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

I really appreciat all the information. We are checking the compression tonite and I am going to try the itsippys test for the wrist pins. Siince I don't already own a battery I'll stick with 6 volts. The only reason i considered 12 volts was to operate a fish finder. That is a problem i can deal with in other ways.

Thanks again for all the info.
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Foreget the wrist pin test, unless you have a safe cracker's touch.
 

akwalker

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Messages
153
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

I had a 1960 40 horse that I just sold, rural Upstate NY, with controls, for $300.00. Ran great. Ditto on the 24:1 fuel mix,,,,,,, you'll burn it up at 50:1
 

jimh6278

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
75
Re: '54 big twin with pics - to buy or not to buy

Wrist pin test didn't show anything. Both cylinders tested to 100 psi twice - dry. Both plugs showed a good spark. Tonite we pull the lower end, inspect, change the impeller, and start in a tub of water.
 
Top