57 Golden Javelin

Jbyers

Recruit
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Dec 5, 2021
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3
I bought a 58 Slick Craft three years ago with a 57 golden javelin engine. I have yet to start it and I'm a novice at outboards. I have noticed a couple of things I don't understand.

One is the lever on the front left side of the motor which is labeled Start/Fast/Slow. When you rotate it, it appears to move a lever on the top of the engine, not the carb. My question is what does this do? Is it a choke? If so, I already have an electric choke button on the dash of the boat so is this even necessary?

I have also noticed a wire at the end of the shaft that rotates when your change the position of the handle. The wire appears to have been attached to what looks like a tiny capacitor and from the looks of it I imagine this was an after market addition. The capacitor has a wire that in turn runs through a hole in the bottom of the engine cowl and terminates on a round contraption on the same side of the engine (sorry I don't see how to insert pictures). Does anyone know what this was for and why it may have been added?

Thanks in advance
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
The lever is a throttle/speed control in case the remote control fails for some reason. It controls both spark advance and carburetor opening. Gearshift must be in forward gear to increase speed settings.

The "capacitor" is not a capacitor. It is a mercury switch (has a drop of mercury inside). It's purpose is to allow electric starting as slow speed settings, but prevent starter operation at fast speed settings. It is standard safety equipment, not an addition.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,844
Agree with the above.----Have one of those 57 Javelin motors myself.-----Do a spark test on it.----Good spark should be able to jump a gap of 1/4" or more with ease.----Should be able to hear the --" snap , snap " ---on a test device.
 

Jbyers

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Dec 5, 2021
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3
The lever is a throttle/speed control in case the remote control fails for some reason. It controls both spark advance and carburetor opening. Gearshift must be in forward gear to increase speed settings.

The "capacitor" is not a capacitor. It is a mercury switch (has a drop of mercury inside). It's purpose is to allow electric starting as slow speed settings, but prevent starter operation at fast speed settings. It is standard safety equipment, not an addition.
Thanks so much....... No one one the other FB forum knew this. I got all kinds of speculation.
So if I am not going to manually start the motor,what position should I leave the control in?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Tested lots of these motors using that lever.---Running in a proper test tank.-Controls still on the boat and it was easy to operate throttle with that lever.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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51,131
Thanks so much....... No one one the other FB forum knew this. I got all kinds of speculation.
So if I am not going to manually start the motor,what position should I leave the control in?
Most of the folks knowledgeable in older motors are not on facetube

also goes with old trucks, old cars, etc. (ie Stovebolt, H.A.M.B, etc)

However you are now here at the worlds largest DIY boat community.

Welcome aboard

If starting manually, start in the start position with the gear lever in neutral.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
However you start it, remote or manually----
1. place throttle at slowest position.
2. gearshift in neutral
3. Now advance throttle to as far toward "Fast" as it will go (it will only go toward "Fast" as far the shifter interlock will allow in neutral). That is the proper throttle position for starting.
4. This is only a brief summary. You got a lot to learn.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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To add to post #9----These motors are simple and rugged.-----On a " push the button " motor with a computer there is little that an operator needs to know.------On this 57 model I suggest you learn / ask all about it BEFORE starting this motor.------Do a compression test for reference.-----Install a new water pump impeller before launching the boat.
 

440roadrunner

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Messages
124
"What I always do" to these old girls

BEFORE (might be too late LOL) you start cranking it over and running it, check the gearcase oil by TRYING not to stir it up too much. This is because a long sitting engine will separate any water in the gearbox, and if it's been upright, will be right at the bottom. By removing the bottom plug you can get "some idea" of how bad the seals are, IE is there any water, a few drips, a teaspoon, or a "bunch?"

You almost ALWAYS need to clean/ rebuild the carbs, the hoses, the pump if it has one

The coils on these, if original or old stock, suffered from epoxy deterioration, and are almost ALWAYS cracked open. They might run "for awhile" but when they get humidity/ water inside, they are done

The condensers are likely leaky. The points may or may not need replaced

I NEVER set points with a feeler gauge, but rather, set them for TIMING. When you do so, the points WILL be properly gapped, and the timing will be correct. you can mess around and set them with the flywheel timing mark, or buy a timing "fixture" (tool.)

I would carefully inspect the primary wiring exiting the mag. This varies over the years, but is tied into the mercury and vacuum switch and kill switch circuit. "The thing is" that this insulation gets old, can ingress moisture and becomes LEAKY especially with dirt/ etc. THERE IS high voltage on this, as the coil primaries have over a hundred volts on them--enough to give you a nice tingle--and if the wiring is leaky--it will deteriorate spark performance

IN DEFERENCE to the wide wide "knowledge" on the internet, YOU CAN NOT test coils and condensers with a multimeter. There are several modes of failure on coils and condensers which will not show up on these "tests." Condensers MUST be tested for high voltage leakage or replaced, but "new" does not mean "good." Same way with coils. Moisture, partially shorted windings, can result in a coil that performs poorly but gives "some" spark. BEWARE OF MANY OF THE Chineseoationized coils on eGag. I got into a "war" with a seller over some of these, which underperform old, OEM coils by about 2/3

Other than actual genuine Sierra coils I don't know of any import coils that are "good."
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,844
Jbyers----Must be busy doing all the checks or reading how to operate an older motor.----A compression test should be done before spending any beer tokens on it.----And it needs a new impeller before launching the boat.
 
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