61 Johnson cd 18

[Romuth]

Any info on how to test and repair a 61 johnson cd18 would be helpful. Just got one but dont have a fuel line to hook it up and test it yet. My uncle said it would fire up but the fuel pump wasnt working right so it would not stay running long. Any help on where to start and if i should do any maintenance befoe i even try to fire it up would be appreciated.

 

[Romuth]

This is a 5.5 hp by the way

 

[Joe Reeves]

See if it runs at all first. Use a large plastic trash can as a test tank and have the water level 4" or 5" above where the lower unit bolts up.... the water pump sits on top of the lower unit and it must be submerged in order to function. Water should shoot out the exhaust hole that is about halfway down the back of the long exhaust housing.

Try to run it first... make notes of the problems you encounter to relate to us, then we can go from there.

 

[OptsyEagle]

If it starts and then wants to stall, quickly squeeze the primer bulb and see if that revives it. If it does, that is a pretty good sign that the motor has a fuel pumping problem, but does not narrow down where the problem is. It might be the fuel pump but could also be the hose, tank venting, carburetor inlet valve or an air leak anywhere along the fuel delivery system.

So let us know what is happening before we spend a lot of time fixing things that are not broke. Also, if you run it in a water bucket, not only should you ensure the lower unit is submerged enough to prime the water pump, but make sure the gas tank is elevated above the ground. Those fuel pumps, even when new, only have so much pumping power and the ground to the carburetor is a lot higher then any elevation that fuel tank would ever see in the kind of boat that motor would ever push. So put the fuel tank on a table or something to raise is up a little. That motor is 57 years old so lets not make it do more then it was designed to do. It has already surpassed everyone's expectations.

 

[OptsyEagle]

Also, this is a good site for general maintenance stuff like changing the water pump, cleaning the carb and tuning the ignition. Just keep in mind that some of the part numbers this guy uses will be different then the part numbers you need because the motors of the CD series have undergone many changes over the years. You will have a different head gasket and a different powerhead to exhaust gasket then the one he uses, just to name two. So always look up your own part numbers to be sure. How they get changed and fixed will be almost identical so the information in this site is quite useful and comes with pictures.

http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.co...0Procedure.htm

Also, if you plan to change the water impellor (which you should) you will find that the impellor used on the original motor is different then the impellor that is used if you bought a new water pump kit. I don't know why this is the case but it is, so if you are going to replace the water pump (which should be done every 5 years at a minimum) then look to see what kind of impellor your motor has in it before ordering one.

Personally I like the knew water pump kits with the smaller diameter impellor. It just seems to pump water harder, in my opinion, but both will pump it sufficiently. Good luck.

 

[Crosbyman]

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_6hp.htm

same basic engine

 

[Romuth]

Thanks guys. I plan to get a fuel line this weekend so that i can start checking it out.

 

[Romuth]

Ok so I finally got the time and money to work on this. I have rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel pump, head gasket and temp gauge as well as the gasket for the fuel filter bowl. I got it to start and run about 5 to 10 seconds. I noticed that fuel is leaking around the high and low throttle pins but would that keep it from starting again and make it stop running so quickly?

 

[oldboat1]

Need a couple of packing washers on each needle -- should have been in the carb kit, but available at an outboard shop. Take a look at a parts diagram to make sure all the bits are in place.

 

[Romuth]

I have a question. I have tried using 1, 2, and 3 gaskets on the high and low speed carburetor pins but I am getting fuel leaking at both points. Could I be doing something wrong or could the collars be damaged?

 

[racerone]

Well---If fuel is leaking out of the upper needle ( slow speed ) then you need to revisit you carburetor work and float valve installation.

 

[Romuth]

Ok I didnt do anything to the float valve. There was not a new one with the carb kit so i left the old cork float alone. I also did not make any adjusments to anything there if anything can be adjusted. I am a novice at this.

 

[racerone]

Are you sure there was not a new float valve in your kit ?-----What part # for the kit ?----Where did the kit come from , a boat shop or some online source ?

 

[Romuth]

Ok so I bought float and replaced it and the float valve and needle. I have played with the fuel intake and the air intake and can get the motor to run for a little bit in idle on choke but if i try to take it off choke or put it in gear it will die. Any ideas?

 

[oldboat1]

Try an initial setting of 1 turn open for the l.s. needle (top), and about 3/4 open for the h.s. needle.

 

[Romuth]

I have played around with the needles. I seemed to get the most out of it when I opened up both another full turn. But I still couldnt get to where i could take it off choke or put it in gear

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more , yes , no or not sure why you should do that test ?

 

[Romuth]

Honestly not sure why. Explain how to test the spark and I will try it. I did notice that my gas tank does not hold compression and has leaks when I pump it. I have ordered a vintage metal tank to replace the old plastic one i have that is deteriorating. Could that have anything to do with it?